speedyblue

Just make sure you get one that isn't damaged, cause it's a pain to fix cracked glass, unless you like itchy fibreglass and the other chemicals. I think they will be pretty thin on the ground though.

Way too late. I've finished all that and the springs and shocks have settled in nicely. I'm now mid way through fitting 35mm spacers so I can run silvia rims and have some longer wheel studs I have to cut down. No sleep for the Zed

This place sells them Clicky You may have to do the ring-around to get something you like. Good luck.

Worst I saw on the way home was $1.19/l for the cheap stuff. The good stuff is 10c or more dearer as well. This morning It was $1.03, but I didn't fill up cause i was running late for work. My gauge was below the empty mark driving home, so I had to put some fuel in. I'm getting my fourby on gas next week, so it seems that big hunk of metal will be cheaper to run than the Z.....

I thought long and hard about drifting the Z, but realistically, there is a lot of work needed on the suspension and chassis, and more power required. Plus, part of drifting is crashing (even the pro's go) and panels are hard to find. I hate to say it, but the Z isn't cut out for it unless you have a lot of cash to spend. Go with something popular like a 240sx or silvia with an SR20, as you can get the parts you need easily.

I think it is a high temp grease. Normal stuff will melt and may end up on your pads, which isn't good. But I'm not 100% sure.

6x9's, or anyother speakers for that matter sound bad in the tool boxes. They just have no bass from them. I can't work out why, but they are good for mid range and high end still. Ther are in direct line of sight, which you need for the treble. So you need the subs to fill it out. If you check my gallery you will see my installation. It has changed a little though, less subs now but that may change again. As for front speakers, make some pods and fit them somewhere out of the way. Good luck with it al.

So there was no camber adjustment set up included in that? I now have my noltec strut tops for the tr7. They are a straight bolt in, and seem pretty well designed. I'll have to see if they make them for a Z. What spring rate are they putting in there?

Well at least now I know exactly how long the studs have to be, rather than the '8mm longer than stock' that I started with. I'll try the brake shop. They are pretty good with all this stuff, rather than just wanting to know a part number. If I can get something the right length then that will be good, but if I have to cut some down to length, then so be it.

I just gota chance to measure the existing studs. The fronts are 38mm long and the rears are 44mm long. Wouldn't have thought they'd be different front to back, but there you go. Also worked out I need them 10mm longer, so can't swap rears to the front for a fix there. Fun and games.

The look of dark wheels on the Z car is starting to grow on me. Gives a tough racing look. Might have to repaint my new rims..... Congrats on getting the car registered. I remember how excited I was about mine 11 months ago, which reminds me, better pay the rego.

Oh so Nissan Quest is a car. I thought Aux was referring to a shop. What is a Nissan Quest? 9mm might do just fine actually. May need to trim a mm or so off for the front. Just did the calc and it's 9.5mm longer, depending on the initial measuring accuracy (vernier calipers vs a cheap plastic ruler)

Z spares have them all too. http://www.zspares.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=59_229_64

I only need 5-6mm longer than a stock 240Z stud. I don't suppose any of the other models has slightly longer studs? Most seem to be around 20mm longer, which is a pain. I would have to cut them all down. Of course I got rid of my 280zx parts car just 2 weeks ago, so I can't go check that unfortunately Always the way.

Where in Australia can I get some longer wheel studs for my 240Z? I will ring around in the morning, but if I can get a head start from here it would be helpful. Also, I realise I will have to separate the front hubs and discs to replace the studs, but can I replace the rears without pulling the stub axles out? I'm still running the stock rear drums. I don't want to pull the stub alxes, but if I have to, I have to. Thanks for the help Scott

Yes I have seen those. I think that price is per corner, so very expensive. Arizona Z car have a weld in set that's cheaper, but only works with their coil-overs. I'll wait and see what the Noltec ones for the TR7 are like. Aparently they are heaps better than the ones K-mac sells. Wait and see.

Does that setup include any adjustability in the camber or castor? Because every time you change the height, the camber will change. I just ordered a similar thing for the front of my Triumph TR7. Threaded sleeves and all that for the strut tubes, all machined to match up to a set of Noltec strut tops for the camber and castor adjustment. It didn't include springs though and was a little under $800. I'm interested in finding a adjustable camber setup for the Z in the future.

One of my struts had that nut on it. It was the only one without an aftermarket strut in it. All the others had the octal headed nut. I used a pipe wrench and a length of pipe. It was really tight.

Sunday the 31th July Drift day at Queensland raceway. It starts at around midday, and goes till the sun goes down. $100 to play, $10 to watch. I always have a great day watching the drivers test their skills and learning to handle their vehicles. www.driftzone.com Haven't seen a Z there yet though.

It's not the guard you hit on the front, it's that lower panel that hangs off the front of the guard below the bumper. And then it is only when the front of the wheel is turned into the guard. (ie turning right will interfere with the panels on the left side of the car) If you were to trim this back, the wheels may fit. Or if you replace it with a front spoiler this may fix it as well. The wheels/tyres with the -9 offset would probably only clear the struts by less than 10mm if using 235's. You would want to check this first if you were trying big stuff on the front.

So any of the later model 260z's should have the R200? You wouldn't happen to know when the change over date was roughly would you? Now I'm gonna be scanning the trading post for 260's in search of the rest of the parts I need.

but it's like a 2-stroke, so it converts to 2.6L. When it comes down to it Torque is a measured figure, HP is a calculated one, something like HP = torque x rpm. Ramp up the RPM in the engine more and you can get more HP. My Scout is rated at 150HP, just like the L28 in my Z, but it weight heaps more and is still almost as quick off the line. Why It has over twice the torque of the Z and the peak is at 1800rpm. The engine is a pushrod type, and can best be described as agricultural. Redline is at 3800rpm. :stupid: Horsepower sells cars. Torque moves them.

Most threads don't cover this well, because we never got the 280z here in OZ, so finding a 280z moustash bar is not too easy.

That's the one. Highly engineered car.

Lots of wet and dry, polish and elbow grease. Search the site and you will find heaps about it.