speedyblue

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4098&highlight=street+machine Mag shop The Magshop is where you will get back issues. I'm not sure but I think it was the first one of 2000 and may be sold out. I can't find mine right now to check. Also, here is a link to an old RB30 into 240Z thread.

My Aussie 73 240Z has them, but that's as far as my knowledge goes.

I have heard rumours that there is high pressure (not a strong one) developed at the base of the windscreen, which is why reverse (backwards facing) bonnet scoops work OK. The air is still forced into there to some degree. The air would move fast over the front of the bonnet causing lift to a small degree, but the main lift would be from air squeezing under the lower valence panel on the front. The airdam changes this and funnels it up into the radiatod instead of inder the car.

On a side note, why forged pistons? I'm guessing that you aren't running a turbo or supercharger at high boost with the tripple carbs, so perhaps if you were intending to run a big hit of NOS they would be required. Hypereutic pistons would be cheaper and still do the job, leaving a few more $$$ for extra porting of the head or something. Even the stock flat tops pistons can handle a fair bit of power.

I think someone's been playing too much Need for speed underground, or Gran Turismo. I've gotten mine to just short of 200km/h and the front end is definately lighter. The little bob wing on the rear probably helps with some downforce though. Has anyone tried adding a belly pan under the front end to see how that changed the aerodynamics?

The LED uses virtually nothing, but the amplifier that it is part of chews lots, even if it's not making any noises. The LED shining would mean the amp is still running when it shouldn't be, one of the things Gav said might be happening. It's easier to first check for a glow, then to start pullng fuses if the amp isn't the fault.

Spacers are easy to come by, mine are 35mm and no probs so far. But get some custom ones that match the Z hub and the wheel properly. Better than the off the shelf jobs, but more $$$, and more peace of mind. Those Watanabe's are sweet. I'm green!!

Most (all) amps have a LED that shines when it is powered up. But if this was the problem, it would go flat in a few hours. I found if I turned the stereo off, but left the detatchable face on, the battery would flatten in around a week in my 4x4. By removing it the problem was solved. Seems just turning it off doesn't completely turn it off. This was for a Pioneer CD player BTW. Good luck hunting the promlem.

I think the wheels look 'not quite right' because the flat centre bit that the spokes attach to is just to big.

It's getting a little hard to find good (wide) 14 inch tyres around here lately. Most cars come with 15 inch stock. Most of the old fords and holdens have switched to 15 inch plus wheels as well. That's why I changed from 14's to 16's, even though I have a nice set of Jellybeans like those pictured, as well as a set of 5 280zx mags. Running 185's isn't cool

Hehe, I was thinking the same thing. Still, looks sweet!!

I've seen that car in a few episodes. It lurkes in the background on the new episodes. They were driving it around on the runway with a few other cars at one stage, so it leads me to think it belongs to one of the cast or crew.

Just found out what length springs I need from the manufacturer, then rand kingsprings Luckily the kingsprings website has free length and stacked height for all the coilover springs they sell. Unfortunately all the front end of my car is apart, so I will have to re-install some pieces to mock it all up. Small price to pay. At least I know which direction I'm heading now. Thanks.

Thanks Pancho. I don't have the springs for it yet, as I was going to see what length I needed first. I haven't settled on ride height, tyre size or rim width yet either. So far I'm yet to find a Triumph site that comes close to this site or Hybridz as far as info goes. I'm yet to find another company that will sell me a coilover set-up for a triumph TR7. It isn't really the kind of thing most owners do. I know a few people have installed GC coilovers on their Z's and figured that the same information would apply as there is a steel perch that needs to be welded to the strut tube for the threaded sleeves to sit on.

It's not on my Z, but the question is still the same as if it was. I have the new perches and threaded sleeves ready to install on my triumph TR7, but I'm not sure exactly where the new steel perch should be welded on. The threaded sleeve is smaller than the nut that holds the strut in place, so the sleeve will have to be on the strut when the nut is done up. How much down the tube should the threaded sleeve sit? If I have it as high as I can, then the sleeve will get in the way when tightening the big strut nut. Also, i don't want to sit it as low as possible because it will hit on the little tab that holds the brake line. I was thinking the strut tube should poke out the end a few mm at least. Who has done this and knows a few things they would care to pass on. Thanks Scott

$500 a door rules me out. Would be cheaper to get my spares fixed. I guess you don't see many (any) really good panels up for offer though. I just wouldn't be able get the rest of the car up to the same standard as the doors

The clutch can just drag slightly. Not enough to move the car, but just enough to spin the gears in the box, making it difficult to get gears. Mine sometimes doesn't like reverse, but if I let the clutch out and re-engage it, it goes into gear fine.

When my syncros started wearing out, I didn't really notice it until one night, I dropped it back from 3rd to 2nd and it ground. I hadn't noticed any problems before, but after that, I was always looking for it at gearchanges, so I noticed it was a bit rougher. Did it grate when you tried to change down, or just not go in? Generally I have noticed if you miss the change the first time, it's harder the second time. Now I get to practice fun stuff like blipping the throttle while braking and change down gears to get a smooth change.

The really easy stuff to replace is the top bearings and the TC rod bushes on the front. I think the inner control arm bushings requires pressing the old bushing out and pressing the new one in, so it's a little harder.

Everyone does it. I changed my springs and shocks, so while it was all apart, I decided to replace all the rear half shaft joints because I had easy access. I know there will be others who have gone a lot orther though. I didn't want to touch the spindle pins though.

My thoughts exactly. I'm loving it. But why would you use the coke bottle candle blower outer to feed the engine, when you could have a whole army of them facing backwards blowing air into the car behind, creating a locallised high pressure system behind the car, that would propell you off the line like a jet????

I'm curious as to what a Z would look like with the colour changing paint on it, especially with all the curves and all that on the front end. I wouldn't try it myself, but still I am curious.

I agree. I have them on mine at the moment. They sit in heaps compared to my 0 offset jellybeans. Just doesn't look right. Can't help for handling either, narrowing the track by an inch.