Everything posted by 240Zdragon72
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Clutch Slave Cylinder
Yes, The car has the 2.8 liter with the 5 speed trans. I put the new one on today in 5 minutes. Most of the time was consumed after I installed it. Bleeding the line until new fluid came out. then 4 more times after to get any air out of the line. I thought it was going to be a lot harder than it was. I had a little trouble at a stop light when the trans did not want to go into 1st gear. I pumped the clutch and then it went in. It never happened again on the way home. Now, should I look into getting replacement parts for my trans? If that is the case, I don't need to be driving the car until I get it fixed. Did the same happen to anyone else?
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Glove box replacement?
We will be on the edge of our chairs waiting. :classic:
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Clutch Slave Cylinder
Hi all. I have the same problem with my slave cylinder. Driving home yesterday, I went to downshift from 3rd to 2nd and my clutch pedal went to the floor. :tapemouth I stopped on the side of the road to look. Fluid trailed from the cylinder boot down the trans. I thought :dead: Taking a closer look, the boot was torn. I bought a new slave cylinder and it came with a new boot. The guy I bought it from said that I had to adjust my clutch?? :stupid: The slave cylinder that is on the car now does not have an adjustable thing?? It looks like it rests up agenst the fork and pushes it. The new cylinder I got today is exactly the same. Just a pushrod type. Is he right or :stupid: ? Could I theoretically pull the old boot off and replace it with the new boot? ( I have already decided to put the new cylinder on, if it fits.) Engine is an F54 block 2.8L . Besides the adjustable link on some, are all slave cylinders alike? Thanks
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1978 wierd ignition switch problems
Thanks a lot bambikiller, I'll give it a go this weekend. Cheers,
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New Graphics on my Z
Tholt29, That last photo of your car looks alot like mine now. ROFL Check it out.... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6978&password=&sort=7&thecat=500
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Painless Wiring Universal Kit?
Just how much would you loose? Would this work for a 240 w/ a 280 engine? It might solve my "engine still runs in off" problem.
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1978 wierd ignition switch problems
I got the car with the engine already in it. I don't know what wires he cut or whatever. All I know is that the car has a L28 engine and 240Z wires with SU Round top carbs. There wouldent be a diogram of this would there? When it comes to wiring, I'm as good as :stupid: Could you tell me which wires and where I need to splice a diode in? I don't think I'm leaving anything out. If you need more help figuring my problem out, feel free to ask me any and all the questions you need. I have a feeling if I have someone else look at her, it will cost around $300 +/- parts. Glad to have you guys around. Thanks Frank and Bambikiller.....
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240Z body and 280zx engine
Ok, I don't think I'm crazy. I went to shoot wires to see if I could get the test light to come on. I found a hot wire in start and run. Thought everything was alright untill I went to shut the car off. The engine was still running. I about screamed bloody murder. :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth Why is it still running with the key out in ignition? This could only mean that I was still "running off the battery." The last time I drove the car the battery power was so low everything dimmed and then shut down. I would like an opinion on what to do. (besides get rid of the car...it is part of the family.) Thanks again....
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1978 wierd ignition switch problems
I forgot to mention, when I start my car the tach will jump and then die, but the engine runs. I must have the worse case of goblins in my car. Any suggestions...shoot more wires, take it to the shop, shoot it....I would never do that. I love my car too much. Ofcourse not as much as my family. check us out at http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8472&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 Thanks again.
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Brakes leaking
thanks man, good lookin' out. What would cause my car to stay running when I turn the key off?
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1978 wierd ignition switch problems
Maybe you guys can help. I seem to be getting no love from hybridz fans. My 240Z has the L28 engine conversion in it. First problem I had was that I would go to start and then let off so the car would run, and it would die. I changed the back of the switch and still the same thing. Then I went to shoot wires and my wife would turn the switch so I could see what wire was hot in start and in run. So, I thought I had it going good. She would start the car and it ran. Then I did a dance and thanked the car gods, but I don't think they were home at the time. I told her to turn the car off, and she said it was. :tapemouth Keys in her hand, the car was still running. NO :sick: :tapemouth WAY!!! Where did I go wrong?? Can someone help me, the car is my baby. She needs to be driven!!
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Brakes leaking
Frank, I am guessing that the right side was leaking before I left. The one spot looked really old. I wanted to know that the 5 lug axle conversion was the same bolt pattern as the front break (and vise versa) from Modern motorsport. $110 for the axles and $300 for the front brakes with 5 lug hubs. So I guess it would be $400 total. They must be the same if they are selling them on the same site? Need a little clarity. Thanks
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240Z body and 280zx engine
I got a new ignition switch yesterday. Installed it and I still have the same problem. Should I just take it to the shop, or rewire the whole car myself? :tapemouth
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Stolen Z in Cali...
Yeah, I read the thread on it. I am very happy for you Victor. I was away when yours got stolen. I was asking about the Red 240Z from the Super Street Magazine. Anything happen?
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Stolen Z in Cali...
Has anyone herd from the guy who had his Z stolen in Cali about a year ago? I hope they found it.
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I finally have my parts car! Want anything?
The carbs look like SU round tops. Look like they have aftermarket air horns and filters. I could really use an ignition switch if you don't need it.
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fuel cell mounting
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fiberglass dash7
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240Z body and 280zx engine
Trying to figure out if my problem lies in the wireing or the ignition switch. I have the 280ZX conversion in my 240Z. The wireing diagram says that start goes to the tach and then to the coil. On the other hand, the conversion wire diagram says to bypass the ballast resistor and hardwire it to the start wire to the back of the tach. I see no such thing. (got the wire diagram from www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/StockToZXIng.jpg ) as I think a lot of us did. I am adding a pic of the back of my dashboard so you guys can see what I am talking about. If you have any questions for me please feel free to ask if it will help sort this whole thing out. Thanks
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sweet autocross photo
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240Z model
Trying to show the "sparco" decals on the seats, NOS bottle with breaded hose, roll bar with fire exstinguisher, and battery
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Skyline V-spec II on the lift. (model car)
Making a diarama of a speed shop that has 3 240z, one Skyline on the lift, and a Smashed VW golf on a rollback. This car is step 2.
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My METALCAST Valve cover
I saw this paint color in an auto part store and thought it would look good on the valve cover. The photo does not do it justice.
- Nuff Said
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Staging up