240Zdragon72

Ha, ha,ha!!! :stupid: :sick: Laughed till my side hurt!!

What condition are your SU's? I might be interested. (really don't want to pay $600 for rebuilt ones, yet.) How about the ignition switch from one of your 240's? Thanks, Brian:alien:

Same with my '72 240Z. I can pull the key out at any given moment....let alone the fact that I can't even get her to run. Oh sure, she'll start, but the second I go to on, she dies....Rebuild here I come. Brian:cry:

Thought you might like this also, If you coulden't get the website to come up. Brian:alien:

That was the sickest thing I've ever seen!!!:sick: That was a wast of a great Z! That guy shoulden't be able to touch another Z for a long time! I espeshally like the tag on the back...FORD! :tapemouth :mad: :sick:

Sorry I gave you guys the wrong address. This is the right one Brian Carbon Fiber Hood :stupid:

:stupid: This is so true!! Cool Brother!! Catch ya on the flip side. BrianLOL

If this "tray" is only on the driver side, sounds like it is a turbo hood. I just saw one yesterday while at the local Pick n' Pull. It had this humongus L28 block still in the engine bay with Nissan Turbo on the valve cover. The hood had vents in it with the so-called tray on the driver side where the turbo would have been. Hope this summed up your question, maybe someone else might know what it really is. Good Luck, Brian:alien:

Hey guys, Try www.zhome.com or $600 for a new CF hood. Not too shabby for lightweight! Brian

I see. Well then I should just keep the car in the garage on cold nights before I go to work... Thanks a lot Brian:alien:

Will I still be able to use my defrost?:cross-eye

Ok, the small of it is, my friend says that some sort of a "wedge" needs to lift the chain off the cam and them I can move the cam to TDC. (top dead center.) The dizzy is in the 10 o'clock position looking from the drivers seat tward the front of the car. Both the intake and exhaust valves are closed. This should be in compression, right? Now I can get the car to start but not run. everything works from fuel to ignition. What could the problem be? I'm planning to rebuild the whole car soon.:dead: :tapemouth starting with the engine. This is just killing me. What should I do about finding the damn timing. My friend also said that I could be 180 degrees off.:stupid: The funny thing is, I have been working on my car with a Gator Grip socket, Dremel and a Gerber.:cross-eye Maybe I should just buy tools and then figure out what the :tapemouth is wrong with her. Brian:alien:

Tight looking engine, brother! Is it a L24, and what year are your SU carbs? Brian:love:

Thanks brother, this will make a speedy decision on what suspension I'll have to go with! Thanks again! Brian:alien:

those rims are sweeeeet!!! They look like oldschool JDM rims for the First Generation MR2. Nice pic brother. Brian

Those rims are Konig Shoguns. Sorry dude, but these rims have been discontinued for a while now. Try looking on ebay, maybe someone got sick of them and wants to get rid of them? :sick: Wont hurt to hunt around. Good luck, brother.... Brian:alien:

About a week ago I saw a pic of this graphite gray '71 240 with fairlady fenders. It had the CCW rims on it. What was the size of those rims and did anyone catch what tires where on it? Thanks: Brian

Evening, I have been wanting to start a rebuild on my L28. I don't know how many miles, condition the rings are, etc. The big question is if I can use any engine stand or do I have to find one specificly for the L engine? thanks for your support 83280zxNA, I think I do need to get my Z runnin' Brian:alien:

Ron, what is PDK's website? Or can I just e-mail you? Brian:alien:

Hell yeah, Carbon fiber is the shiznit! not bad for $600. About the price of the hood I'm looking at.:cheeky:

I'm getting my preorder done also, these will look tight in the 240!

Yeah, I think I'll stick with the N/A for now. That looks too complicated to me. Now I'll have nightmares of killer Z cars beating me with their beefy turbo/carb configureation...:disappoin Thanks anyway: Brian:alien:

B&M says the stock number for the T-5 short shifter is "45050" Is this the right shifter, and does anyone have the same conversion as I do? Brian:alien:

Thanks David, every little bit of info would be a great help! Brian:alien:

I tis a brand new Optima Red Cap. I think it would have enough juice to start the engine. It could also be that I have a lot of rotational play of the distributer, and I can pull the dang thing out of the engine. Before I rebuild, I'd like to find out if the engine will run. Thanks Brian:alien: