240Zdragon72

If I wanted to buy these rims, what size and bolt pattern is a '72 240 Z?:stupid:

Yes it will! Go to www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tach/ZXPertronix.html It has 3 wireing diograms and you can print them out for future use. Good luck brother! Brian

I really enjoy the Z also, but I've had a thing for the '68 Olds 442. I think it is because of the style and they look just as good as a Z when they are modified. Brian

You got it V12horse, It might take a little time, I still need to hinge the doors, hatch and the entire engine bay. (has small block 350 w/dual exhaust.) I'll keep you posted.:classic:

I got tired of finding this wire, and put new ones going to a carbon fiber guarded switch. this solved the fuel problem. Now she starts but wont run unless I keep the key in the start position. :mad: She can be a pain, but that is why I love her. Nutxo, did you have any luck with you "biplane" problem? I'd try a "Ractive" or "Blitz" exhaust. Something that will give you the flow you need, but without taking away your backpressure. Brian

Did you make it?

Good morning all. I have a story from last night. Now I don't claim to be a "Ricer", but I was driving my wifes car (the Z is sick) while delivering pizza. She owns a Kia Sephia. Here is a pic. Now I have done some work to it, not much, just a K&N air filter, NGK Spark, Ractive muffler(1 1/2" outlet), and not to menchon, IT'S AN AUTOMATIC. She cant drive a 5-speed. Anyway, while driving I saw the 5" tailpipe, and the clear tail lights. Honda Civic. Had V-Tech all over it. He tried to get me to roll start. I waited untill he punched it. Then I took the overdrive off and chased after him, while going up-hill, I got him. In a KIA? Now if I had the Z running, I woulden't even give it a second thought to blow his doors off. Great story though, cops can be in the right place at the right time. BrianROFL ps. I guess the pic is too big, I'll post it later.....KIA!!!

You can throw all your "too old" rejects my way! Priceless, I could not stop laughing after I read this! Thanks for all your info, I'll give it a go. Brian

Good day all, I have been having some trouble with my car. First, the battery was dead, the connectors on the starter were coroded, the coil was bad, and the fuel pump was not getting any power. So, I put a Optima Red Top battery, new connectors, coil, and added a carbon fiber guarded kill switch for the fuel pump. Needles to say, I thought I fixed the problem. I bought some "Start Fuel" to spray into the carbs. It worked, for about 2 seconds. Got a backfire through the forward carb and died. My friend said that the timing is off. So I fiddled with the distributor. It has alot of "rotational play" and at the same time, I can pull the dang thing out of the engine. Now my main concern is, why can I get the car to run with the key in the start position (I have to hold the key there), and have it die when I go back to on? Please help, it's my baby, she needs to be driven. Thanks, Brian :tapemouth

Ravell-Monogram makes a plastic 1/25 scale model kit. I have 2 of them and the first one is taking me 7 months to build. (alot of customizing.) Wal-Mart sells them for about $10. Good luck Brian:alien:

much love victor, i'll try it in the morning! Thanks alot! Brian:alien:

Great news, I got my '72 240Z to start and run for about 2 sec. I put new coil, Optima battery, and ran new power wires to the fuel pump with a carbon fiber guarded switch. I got a back fire through the forward carb. So I'm thinking that my timing or the fire order is off. I have the L28 engine with a 280 distributor, 240 ignition modual, and a 280 cap. (If that helps out with a diagnosis of what is wrong with the car.) Thanks Brian:alien:

I think painting them and taking them off at night is a great idea. That is what I plan to do when I get my car running again. Here is a pic of one that I live! Brian:alien:

No, I think the guy who ouned it before me might have spliced the wire with another. No luck so far. Would that be going with the NA muffler of a Turbo? Brian:alien:

Hey, Nutxo, what type is your engine? L24, L28? FI or SU Carbs? I also have been thinking of buying some Trapp's. My car is a '72 240Z with the L28 from a '83 280ZX.(Carbs) On top of being such a powerful engine is such a light car, I can't get her to even run. She'll crank but no fuel. I'm trying to trace the power wire back from the fuel pump because there is no power getting to it. I have been thinking of making a switch panel inside the car for the pump if I can't figure out the problem. Any suggestions? Thanks, Brian:alien:

Lance, Thanks for the tips. I'll post another reply if I get anything working. Brian:alien:

ok, this is a big pain in the butt. I am getting spark all the way to the plugs. now, no power to the fuel pump. Wouldn't I hear it turn on when I put the key to on? Also, is the stock fuel pump in the tank? The car is a 240 w/ L28 and T5 trans. SU carbs and distributor module. What the :tapemouth is wrong with my car?? I love this car, but she is really being a pain! Thanks, Brian:alien:

Where is the stock fuel pump located? Also, the car is equipped (I think) with an external fuel pump. Where would I start first? Brian:alien:

Ok, this is my first car, I have no idea where to adjust the carbs at? :stupid: I use to own a '96 Stratus, so I can't say that I know enough about the car. By the way, what is the fire order of the spark plugs? Thanks, Brian:alien:

I got my project from a guy I work with. They put a L28 with T5 trans. I went to the ends of racking my skull finding out what the :tapemouth was wrong with her. Now I think the fuel pump isn't getting power. If I'm not mistaken the pump should kick on in the on possition before you go to start? My return line to the tank is leaking where the hose meets the clamp on the tank. I noticed a puddle of fuel just below it. Also, could it be some vacuume lines on the SU carbs rotted and not functioning right? Brian:alien:

:dead: :stupid: :tapemouth Now I think the problem exists in the fuel area. I have spark all the way to the plugs. I pulled the fuel line after the filter and tried to crank the car, No fuel. I have also found that most of the lines on the SU Carbs are rotted and so is the return line to the fuel tank at the clamp. Could it have only been the vacuum lines all along? Brian:alien:

No, Steve, the car sat for about 4 to 5 months. He said that the hot wire to the coil might have a short to it?:tapemouth I thought I should try to trace the wire back to its oragin to see if this is true. thanks, Brian.

The engine will crank with the key, (now that I've installed an Optima "Red Cap" battery) I changed all the connectors to the starter. They where green.:stupid: Now the engine will turn over, but no spark. could there be a short to the coil, or should I try putting the old coil on? Brian:alien: