kyteler

Why yes, yes I do... edit time.

Bruce, you bugger! I thought _I_ had the oldest ( ) 240K on here! DAMMIT! 1866!! You beat me!

They're on at least their second week now, I spied them the other week, thought it was perhaps a bit high price, especially if you were to add on shipping to NZ. They do look to be nice and clear and in good condition, I would say they're fairly close lense wise to the pair I took off my parts car that I got for free

Hey Ben, I think you'll be fine to be honest, I noticed in the picture that you don't have any wheel nuts attached and so theorectically the wheel is hanging off the studs and wont be in it's true position anyway. I think you'll find once the 4 nuts are on and have pressed the wheel firmly against the hub and into it's proper true position, that you'll have more clearance than you can see currently. But that's just a guess... SOUNDS COOL THOUGH! Loving those wheels though man, you know I could always swap you the SSR Longchamps for those RS-Watanabe's Edit: Wow, I didn't realise how old this post was that's what you get for responded to things in the Recent Posts area I guess. Still though, what I said makes sense right? .... right??

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Actually, come to think of it, there was a weird connector on the side of the coil that was unlike anything I'd seen previous, perhaps it all in a roundabout way connects into that... ergh. I'll get a photo of the coil tomorrow for you to take a look. I'm not sure that it was a ballast resistor, at least not in the form I've seen them before. EDIT: Oh, and it was a 5speed Manual.

None other than mental notes. 1. Unplug from wiring loom. 2. Undo bolts. 3. Take dizzy. I also have the engine loom, the Y70 head, the fuel rail, the injectors and the L20E ECU. I can try figure out what colour wires go to which pins on the ECU but other than that doing that, I'm at a loss. However, I'm sure you can see what I mean now about making sure you don' get the one with the screw-on dizzy cap

Hey Bruce, I've taken a few pictures of the distributor and connectors I was talking about earlier. If this could be adapted to suit, that would be pretty good as it would mean I'd have another spare dizzy Let me know your thoughts. It was taken from an HR30 L20E Coupe/Hardtop if that helps?

Thanks Kent. It'll probably be a while before it's on the car for good, but I'll probably end up putting it on just to take pics for the sake of it Watch this space

Bruce, perhaps the Ti hatch is different, but I have also stripped an HR30 coupe for parts and it had a screw on dizzy cap which plugs into the wiring loom with a weird arse plug, if it's possible to use that dizzy without the EFI, that's great, as it means I have a spare dizzy , but I'd have thought you would have to use the EFI in order to use that particular dizzy, seeing as there is no control box on the distributor itself ??

Hey Tom, Pretty simple to setup, you rip out your old one and put in the new one, add one extra wire and make sure you've got an appropriate coil for an electronic dizzy, so if you can, take the one from the C210. There's a diagram floating around the net and probably on here about what you need to do when you replace the dizzy, it's exactly the same as replacing it with the ZX one which is what the diagram/instructions refer to. I had the image somewhere but I can't seem to find it. If you have no luck finding it by searching this website then I'll have a thorough look for it. -Michael

The GC210 also runs an electronic dizzy that's where mine is from, although I'm currently back to running points at the moment as I'm waiting for a new cap to arrive (early next week). But basically most EFI L-series 6's should be able to help, be careful though... if it's got a screw on dizzy cap, you probably don't want it as it has completely different connectors and I'm not sure whether it can be adapted to suit as I believe those ones run off the ECU. Not 100% on that though.

OOOOOOOoooooooooOOOHH! I want it! Swap you a 33GT-R front badge? Or, let me save some dosh to buy it off you. (I don't have a credit card so can't do the whole ebay thing at the moment, which isn't fair.. dag nabbit.) Edit: On another note I saw you added your VIN to your sig Lachlan, so I ran out and checked mine to see who had the lower 1973. I win 2286 and my parts car is 33xx

Hmmm, I have no idea, but if it helps, I've got a C210 FSM (Factory Service Manual) and I could scan the Wiring Diagram if it makes it any easier?

Good stuff man, Once you've fabricated some mounts to fit the RB nicely into the K, how would you feel about making another set or two

Oh, and I think the ratio is something like 10ml to every 10l ?? So when you buy a big bottle, it will last a while.

Valvemaster, comes in either wee orange squirty tubes or you can buy bigger bottles, keep in mind though, I am in NZ so.. perhaps you don't get that brand there?? I have no idea.

It should say on the head itself between plugs 1 and 2, or around that area, what head type you have, my bet is E30. Regardless of which you have though, being the car is over 30years old, unless you open her up to check you'll never really know for sure, I use an additive when I remember to do it.

Hey there Tom, Unfortunately I wasn't the man who took to my grille so I can't tell you too much about it other than the center was removed, then it was joined... somehow... I bought the car with it done, the previous owner had thought that, that was all the GT-R grill was, I had to inform him it wasn't the case and that the GT-R had a different grill entirely, however! it shall do for the time being.

I actually thought my C110 handled not too badly, the I converted from Auto to Manual.. big change in suspension feel. So more recently I changed to Low Kings with new KYB's on the front (will do the back later) and it's made a significant improvement, next on my list will be some Dunlop FM901's @ either 205 or 215 (on the front, bigger on the back )

You're probably not too interested but I could get my hands on a set of 14x6 RS Watanabe's more positive offset (ie. currently sitting on GTi-R Pulsar) for $450NZD, they're the 2-piece, painted gunmetal centres/spokes with chrome/polished rim.

Cheers guys, I also thinks she looks pretty fantastic. Ben; I simply wasn't willing to replace the RS-Watanabes with anything other than a Japanese replacement and both the polished and chrome look of the Long Champ suits my car very well, so, as you can imagine I'm more than happy with the change... ...for the time being Victor; I was pretty stoked with the price, to be honest the guy really didn't know what they were, and they truly looked quite ragged with the black centre's... but hey, if you want to pay me $850USD for them, I'm sure I can put the Watanabe's back on for a while Alternatively, there's some RS-Watanabe's sitting in my room right now as I type. I should stop being cruel now, I really wouldn't sell either... ...for the time being

Done, New thread started.