240ZMan

Larry, did the need to use the underlying platform for other vehicles, including 4 doors, impact your design process? It seems like it would, which might explain why the 350Z doesn't have the long hood, short deck like the 240. Or was there some other reason?

With regard to the comments about preferring the long hood, short rear deck of the BMW Z4, I personally agree, and find those proportions on the 240 a big part of it's visual charm. But, I'm pretty sure that when Nissan began the 350Z design, they were not a financially viable company (loosing money big time) and so the platform had to also be used for 4 door cars, including the G sedan. I suspect that this requirement prevented the long hood look, as well as contributed to the extra weight (they couldn't optimize the platform for just a 2 door since it also had to support a 4 door). Like others said earlier, you have to look at the 350Z in the context of the time period in which it was designed.

So is there any reason why Mikunis would be so much more expensive than Webers? Or is this particular price just out of whack with the market.

Webers are less than $2k new. Why are the mikunis so much more?

At our last track day, my 73 wasn't able to be driven, so I just went to ride along with others. One of the club members suggested I take his stock 350Z out for a few laps. It's the basic model without any special performance options or mods. I was quite impressed with how easy it was to drive fast, and how buttoned down the chassis was. Even the brakes held up, although in fairness to him, I only kept it out for about 15 minutes. The refinement was excellent, and I still could tell what was happening with the front tires. And I only had a short time in the car to get used to it. The only issue I had was the positioning of the brake and gas pedals wasn't what I expected, so I had some trouble with heal-toe downshifting. Plus the 6 speed is a much shorter throw than my '80's 5 speed, so I landed up with 5th a few times when I was going for 3rd. But those are things I'm sure I'd get used to in a short period of time. All in all, I was very impressed with the level of performance for a totally stock 350. And if I had to drive this every day, I would be quite comfortable. I agree with others that it was nothing like the early Zs, and I doubt in 30 years that there will be a following for it like there is for the S30s. But for a person who wants to have just one car that can be driven in virtually every condition, I can see how some would choose this car. Also, keep in mind that most of us on this site take some pleasure in working on our cars, and in some cases, improving them. While that's possible to some degree with the 350, the cost is much higher than for an S30, and I doubt it would be that much fun due to the way new cars are "packaged" so tightly these days. I know Nissan presented the 350 as the spiritual successor to the 240, and on that level I think they missed. But if one sees it instead as a different take on a modern sports car, then I think it deserves a lot more respect than it has received. As they say, that's my $.02.

Vice grips, or a small pipe wrench? It would be a lot easier if the tranny was out of the car, but I think there should be just enough room to get something on it. An alternative would be to remove the shifter from inside the car. Put one end of some clear tubing on the nipple of the tranny oil, and put the other end in where the shifter goes. Use 2 quarts after draining.

My rear anti-roll bar blocks using the cross member, so I use this other area instead.

Will, I think the pop ups come because they are using a free/low budget web host for their site. I'm not trying to justify the pop ups as I feel pretty much the same as you do about that. But I doubt they are receiveing any direct payment for click-throughs, rather that's how the free web site host generated their own revenue to keep the site "free". As a side note, I use Firefox as my browser and have the popup blocking feature turned on, and didn't even notice that they had pop ups. You might consider a new browser, or even upgrading to the just released IE7 as it has better pop up blocking now.

The regrind including rockers was about $120 and the lash pads $35 IIRC. I forgot that the early L28s had dished pistons. I've heard that big cams like higher compression, so you might see more of a reduction in low end torque. But I doubt it would be huge. I'd suggest you call delta cams. They were really easy to work with, and said they had done a lot of Z regrinds. They can probably help you with the trade off due to lower compression. Regardless of what cam you go with, I think you're better off getting your cam reground than buying a new non-nissan cam.

I'm running an N42 head on an L28 with flat top pistons. I recently had my cam and rockers reground by delta cam and have been thrilled with it. The specs are .480" lift with 284/284 degree duration (forget what it is at .050 lift) which is similar I think to the MSA stage III. But this way I still have the benefit of the nissan cam and its hardness and it was way cheaper. I just had to replace the lash pads. The new cam is so quiet now that I have the wipe correct. Coupled with the triple webers and it's a blast to 6500, will pull to 7k easily. Of course, it's a little flat below 2500 rpm, but with 4.11 in the rear, that problem was cured It idles nearly perfectly at 750 rpm, no lope at all. I'd say that if keeping the engine "streetable" is a priority, this is a great comprimise. If you want more track oriented, this cam is too small.

Arne, my memory may not be too good here, but don't the N42 heads also have brass valve seats?

A few thoughts: - 150k miles on a Z engine IF it was well maintained (regular oil changes, etc.) isn't a lot and it could still be strong. - The N42 head on an L28 with flat top pistons (which is what was in the 76) is a very good combination. I can't see any reason to swap the E88 head. - The noise you describe on the N42 head could just be that the valves need adjusting. Have you done that yet? - You haven't told us anything else about the rest of the engines such as condition of carbs for the L24 vs. condition of the fuel injection system for the L28. I'll assume that they are both in good condition. My recommendation is to adjust the valves on the L28/N42 head and check its compression. If it's good, that's the engine I'd use. If you find it's poor, let us know the details. The next step would be to assess if the top end or bottom end is the problem. I wouldn't just start swapping heads until I knew more about the conditon of the rest of the engine.

Next time your brakes get soft, try pulling off the road and setting the parking brake firmly. Then try the brake pedal. If it is now firm, then I suspect your rear drums may not be adjusting as they should. Have you had the drums off and checked the adjusting mechanism? Look for wear on the teeth of the wheel on the brake cylinders. As for pulling to one side when braking, another possible cause is an imbalance in tire pressure from side to side. I'm not saying that's the issue in your case, but double check one of your tires isn't much lower than the others before you tear into the calipers.

Wish I wasn't 1000 miles away. Looks like a great day!

I've read in several places that the stock oiling system does not have enough volume to properly supply both the internally oiled cam AND the external sprary bar. This has lead to cam lobe failure. You don't sound convinced that the ebay pump you ordered is really a high volume one, so I can't help but wonder if you're actually increasing the risk of cam failure with this approach. Just because your bar was plugged doesn't mean that the spray bar, OR the internally oiled cam, is inadequate in any way when properly cleaned and installed. Just my $.02.

Why are you using the spray bar with an internally oiled cam?

I must have missed something. What is the issue that prompts the "fix"?

Oops, sorry for the bad information. I was thinking of the earlier thread by the guy who felt that sometimes the 280ZXs didn't get a fair shake on this site, so I took a shot at answering. Given all my experience is with the S30, I guess I need to be a little more careful about what applies to the ZXs.

Just a thought: it's common to fill the space between the strut and the strut housing with oil to help with heat transfer. Perhaps the oil you saw was some of that being forced out? Are you able to move the strut shaft in and out? Easily? If not, then maybe your strut is ok. Do you have another one out that you can compare it to?

Jon: sorry I wasn't more clear: I meant your blue one was a rear bar with the mounts being attached in front of the wheels, not behind them. Wish I had a drawing

Zack, There are two different shapes for the rear bar depending on whether it mounts from the front of the rear. A "front mount bar" can only mount from the front. Likewise a "rear mount bar" can only mount from the rear. The MSA kit for 70-73 comes with a rear mount bar (at least it did 2 years ago when I bought mine). The blue bar in Jon's picture above looks like a front mount bar to me.

Wow, I'm a bit surprised to read that, and dissapointed that we've given you that impression. The only criticism I've seen about the ZXs is that since they're heavier than the earlier cars, it's harder to make them go faster and handle better. But that criticism can be leveled at almost every sports car line as they mature. The later ones almost always gain weight (notable exceptions being the Miata and Corvette.) And with the weight came a much more refined and comfortable ride. Not a bad thing on a long trip. Ironic note: as an owner of an earlier Z, one of the best things I did was swap in the drive train from a ZX I've always felt that one of the special things about the Zs is that they appeal to such a broad range of drivers, from people who are performance oriented, to those who want a responsive, safe, and fun car to drive. I see this site reflecting ALL those views and more. I'd ask you to hang in there and give it a chance. And if one of us puts our nose in the air, call us on it!

When I purchased my rear bar for my 73 from MSA, there was a lot of confusion because mine already had the brackets from the factory in FRONT of the rear wheels. The MSA kit they initially sent me was designed to be mounted with the bar BEHIND the rear wheels. In the end Sal made up a custom kit for me with a different rear bar. Earlier you said you didn't see how it could fit. Perhaps you need to flip it around the other way? (Front to rear, or rear to Front?) Just guessing that might be your issue...

Are you planning on using it?

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