240ZMan

Thanks for the update George. It's interesting that you didn't notice any difference. My first thought is that the more stiff and aggressive your suspension and bars are, the MORE benefit you would get from the strut brace as they would be transferring greater forces to the unibody causing to flex more. Hmmm, not sure what to make of this.

Having owned SUs, DGVs, and now triple webers, I'll weigh in with a few thoughts: - If your engine is stock and you plan to keep it that way, the SUs are the best solution. HOWEVER, most SUs are 30+ years of age and have worn throttle shafts which makes it impossible to properly tune the idle mixture. ZTherapy is a great way to go to solve that, but that's not cheap. Keep in mind that you may have to spend some additional $$$ on ebay SUs to get them into a reliable state. - The DGVs give you separate idle and main circuits. If you're engine is not stock, this may be important as it was for me. I was not able to get the proper idle as well as part/full throttle mixtures with several sets of needles and nozzles. (I was using SU bodies rebuilt by ZTherapy.) The answer was going to be grinding my own needles. Instead I went with the DGVs and they were great. I was unable to feel any difference in power with them compared to the SUs: no more, no less. Because they have a separate idle jet, I was able to get the proper mixture at idle as well as at part/full throtle. - If you are going to modify your engine for power, such as with a bigger cam and headers, then triple webers/mikunis is the way to go (assuming you don't want to switch to fuel injection). They are far more tuneable, albeit with an increase in the cost to experiment with the many jets and air corrector combinations. In your case, it's hard to recommend a best path without knowing more about what your long term plans are for the car. I will say that after doing a rebuild of the DGVs, their low speed driveability was very much improved. They are not hard to dissassemble, especially since you don't have to remove all the linkage just to clean them. I bought a gallon can of the berryman's carb cleaner and once the tops and bottoms of the carbs were separated, I was able to fit them into the can to let them soak. Do one at a time so that if you forget how it goes back together, you have another one still in one piece as a reference. Of course, you'll have to decide if you're comfortable with this level of project, but I suspect that installing a rebuild kit after cleaning will solve most of your issues.

So are those pictures of the unit you just bought?!

ZIII and I compared measurements of our strut tower spacing and found they were within 1/16". So unless both of our cars are tweaked in the same way, it's more likely that the bar they built for him was out of spec. That's a quality issue, and while that can happen to any small shop, their response to him was pretty much "It's your problem, not ours." Every company makes a mistake now and then. The difference is how they do (or don't) handle it and make it right. I'm glad that your bar fit, but when I buy bars this spring, there is no way I'm going to take a chance with them. How do I know if the bar I get will fit like yours, or ZIII's?

I think you may be going down the wrong path here. I would NOT cut it off with a hack saw, at least not if you plan on reusing any parts of it Even if the vacuum advance is frozen, it's not going to prevent the engine from starting. I would focus my efforts on the wiring to the dizzy, and also check the sensor and the magnets on the shaft inside. From your earlier post it sounds like you're not getting any spark. Have you confirmed that? (Have someone crank the engine while you pull a spark plug wire off and hold it very close to the plug tip. You are looking to see the spark jump. NOTE: YOU WANT YOUR HAND TO BE INSULATED FROM THE WIRE. Wear gloves, thicker is better, you can also use insulated pliers. Feeling the full spark won't kill you, but it's not any fun either.) Also, have you confirmed you have your timing set reasonably close to where it needs to be? Perhaps you took note of the old dizzy's positon before you put the new one in? If you're timing is too far off, the engine might not want to start. But a broken vacuum advance mechanism is not going to stop your engine from starting.

Bloxman, I'm running triple webers like you and gave up on vacuum advance when I installed them. Because triples have 6 individual runners, there isn't as much vacuum available for the distributor. I run all mechanical with a total of 35 degrees. Vacuum advance is only used to gain a little better fuel economy at light throttle, such as when cruising on the highway. Under those conditions of high manifold vacuum the distributor will advance timing further because the engine can usually tolerate it and it gives you a little better mileage. You do not need vacuum advance, it's just nice to have. Since you have triple webers, you've already decided that economy isn't your #1 priority So as Steve said, the issue isn't with the failed vacuum servo, it's somewhere else. I don't blame you for being frustrated by not getting what you thought you purchased, but if it's any consolation, it's not surprising to see the vacuum servo failed on a 30 year old part.

David, glad you've made progress, and it sounds like you're close; the skate board is creative but not a substitute for a human leg. Perhaps it's just the color in the picture, but the color of the disc doesn't look right. I can't tell if that's from overheating, or corrosion, or perhaps something else, but "it no look right". Also, I didn't see any jack stands. Forgive me if I sound like a parent (which I am), but that's just not safe, even with 2 jacks. Any time you are going to put any part of your body under a car, there needs to be a jack stand. Don't let yourself get in the habit of making excuses, even if it's only for a minute. Jack stands are cheap, and a lot cheaper than the visit to an emergency room or worse. Sorry for the lecture, glad to see you jumping in on something new, and please be safe.

I just rebuilt my 240SX rear calipers from the JY before installing them and it was no big deal at all. BUT, if the reason your caliper is stuck is because the piston is rusted, then you may need to replace it. Mine were clean so I had no issues with that. I bought the kits from Rock Auto I think as it's not easy to find rebuild kits at the chain stores any more. As for flushing your brake lines, the process of removing the calipers and then later bleeding the brakes is going to flush all the old brake fluid out of the lines. But if you are looking to do something more aggressive, like run something through them to clean them, then I'll let others who have done that respond.

I'll throw a few thoughts in on this: - I had a Holley Blue, but it was terribly loud. Is the Red loud too? - I am now using a generic rotary from Autozone and mounted it using thick rubber straps usually used to mount mufflers. You really can't hear it in the car at idle. - The easiest way to deal with lack of vacuum advance is switch to a ZX distributor. I have an 80 although I've heard some say the 82 & 83 curves are a little better. I tune my advance to a max of 35 degrees. This results in about 18 degrees at idle with my distributor. Driveability is great. You can usually get one at the JY for about $20. Make sure you get the aluminum piece that goes between the distributor and block as it's different for the later ones. - I am running triple webers with 32 mm chokes. I have an N42 head, L28 flat top pistons, and 284/284 .480" cam. I live at 6000 feet and have no problem with low rpm bogging, although there is a lot more power above 3k rpm. Most people run with their main jets way too big. I am running 110 mains and might even be able to get away with 105 (if I had a set to try). Given my altitude, I'm going to run a little smaller than those at sea level, but when I first bought the carbs there were 140 mains and the engine wouldn't run except at idle and WOT ! If you're running with an L24, then I agree with Carl and wouldn't go larger than 30 mm chokes unless you go with a huge cam.

Actually it works out closer to 20A: 2 x 65W = 130W 2 x 55W = 110W --------------- total 240W / 12V = 20A. In an early Z, that's the bulk of the load. A typical 14" fan for the radiator is no more than 15A, which leaves at least 25A for ignition, fuel pump (if electric), cabin fan, and radio. I think the only scenario for early Z's where you need more than 60A is with an extremely high power stereo, or if you did a V8 conversion and have a huge fan on the radiator. Some of the factory 2 speed units pull 35A on their higher speed.

In theory it shouldn't matter whether it's internally or externally regulated. The original VR was a mechanical unit which was crude by today's standards because they are all solid state now (transistors, no relays). I went with the 280zx because I had it. I've never exceeded its capacity but can't tell you if I'm typical or not. I just wanted to challenge you to be sure that the problem was a lack of capacity, and not a failing alternator. I've only done the 280zx swap, so can't speak to how easy/hard the others are. But if you are sure you need more than 60 amps, might as well go bigger!

If you're looking to buy one, PM me.

Do you mean an adjustable sprocket for an L24/26/28? I'm confused by "dual chain".

Use your floor jack.

If it's any consolation, I bought my 5 speed used, found out the 2nd and 3rd gear syncros were shot, had it rebuilt, put it back in, found out he didn't get it right and syncros still worn, reinstalled, found out he goofed on reverse and it wouldn't stay in gear, pulled it again for repairs, and then finally (touch wood) reinstalled it. By the fourth time I was pretty good at it. :mad:

Here is what I think happened: once the bolts on the pressure plate backed out, the clutch no longer fully disengaged. This put a lot more load on the syncros when shifting and I'll guess your 2nd gear syncro is now worn (which is usually the first to go). Now that you've fixed your clutch, the problem remains because the syncro is still worn. I think you either rebuild the tranny again, or granny shift.

Why did you select the Maxima alternator? The 280ZX alt is a very easy swap and still gives you 60 amps. I have that in my '73 along with: - twin electric fans - upgraded H4 headlights with 90/100 bulbs (hey, it's dark where I live ) - upgraded Honda blower for interior fan - driving lights tied to the high beam circuit (they come on whenever the high beams are on) There are no issues with the alt putting out enough current. The only issue is at idle with everything on, the dash lights dim a bit, but the ammeter still shows I'm not discharging the battery. And I keep my idle around 650 rpm. If I increase it to 850 there is no issue at all. Perhaps the real issue is your stock alt is not giving you its rated output? If that's the case (and you could check it pretty easily at most auto parts stores) then it's not so much that you need to upgrade as you just need to get one that works properly. If you already have the Maxima alt, then I guess I understand why you want to use it. But the 280zx alt is a very simple swap (mine is from an 80). Might be worth considering.

Sorry Ron, I got my 3 letter acronyms crossed George, fwiw, if you speak to them again you can tell them that I was seriously considering their bars, but not any more. It will be either PDK or MSA. We'll see what Santa brings ...

George, I think you were being kind when you described the holes being 1/8" off. Looks like 2 or 3 times that in the pictures. Given yours and my measurements only differed by 1/8", that doesn't say very much for their manufacturing tolerances (unless both of our cars are off by the same amount). Have you called them about this? Earlier in this thread it sounded like Ron Carter knew them well and spoke highly of them. Let's hope they'll make this right for you.

I was only concerned about the rear bar in the cabin. I've tried to keep the "visible" parts of the car unmodified if I can. Under the hood, all bets are off!

George, I share you concern about creating too much of an obstruction. I like having the option of taking the Z down for a Saturday afternoon Costco run You mentioned that the PDK bar needs to have holes drilled on top of the strut towers. I didn't realize that - I assumed that it would use the existing bolts from the strut. Hmmm. I'm in no hurry, so I look forward to hearing your feedback once you have it installed. Good luck!

I measure the following: (in fractions since my tape measure isn't decimal) 12 o'clock to 12 o'clock: 34 7/16 inches 3'o'clock to 9 o'clock on passenger side: 30 9/16 6 o'clock to 6 o'clock: 34 7/16 The differences aren't that much. I'll be curious to read what you think once you have it mounted. Another question: did you consider the PDK? I like the idea that the triangulated mounts attach on both sides. Seems like it would possibly distribute the load better and put less stress on the holes you have to drill into the sheet metal.

George, I've been watching this thread because strut bars are next on my list for my '73. Do you think the reason it doesn't fit is because of a manufacturing issue on their end? Or do you think it's because your car's strut tops aren't aligned anymore? FWIW, if you want to take some measurements I'll be glad to do the same on mine and see how close they are.

I think this is going to come across as being rather naive, but I'm surprised in this day and age that the designers are working with so little involvement from engineering and marketing. I thought this was a thing of the past.

When I had mine shipped, it was about $65 IIRC.