kcpope

Well, sorry to dominate all the recent forum activity, but I’m really trying to get this thing done! I’ve got an electrical problem somewhere. I’ve read what feels like 100 posts regarding the turn signals. I’ve studied the following links heavily and still can’t seem to figure it out: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/16435-72-240z-brake-light-wiring/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ THE PROBLEM: I have no brake lights or front/rear turn signals HERE’S WHAT DOES WORK: Hazards (front and rear), Headlights & Tail lights, Reverse Lights, Brake light switch, all fuses are good, all light bulbs are good, Turn signal switch was just rebuilt, as well as combo switch. I meticulously cleaned everything, lightly sanded all the contacts, dielectric grease, the whole 9 yards. I sanded down my grounds both at the firewall and at the rear under the gas tank. I followed the directions from the first link I posted above and verified that I have 12 volts at the Green/yellow wire that goes from the hazard switch to the connector for the turn signal switch. Picture below. I also verified that the voltage goes to zero when the brake pedal switch is pressed, telling me that the brake switch is working. Again, according to that first link above by 72SLOZ, that should indicate that my problem is something downstream of the hazard switch. When I plug in the turn signal switch, I don’t get any voltage from the green/yellow wire to the white/black or white/red wire. This might seem to indicate a problem with the turn signal switch? BUUUUT, I thought to myself, I’ll bypass the turn signal switch and just insert a jumper wire into the connector shown below and see if I get any lights, still nothing! I have my multimeter in hand. Any idea where to look next? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the link. I do have my oem pump, which I will try and refurbish and use. If I need to buy the Nikki pump and scavenge parts off of it, I wlll[emoji1360] I’ll update the thread as I go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@emccallum any chance that offer still stands?? Sorry to revive an old thread. I’ve finally got the car on the ground and I’m getting ready to tinker with the engine. This means I’ll need to find an eccentric. I want to try the mechanical pump route first before having to mess with an electrical pump. Hopefully @emccallim is still around somewhere, or anyone else who might have one to sell? Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’re OK with non-OEM fasteners, I’ve found every type of metric fastener I’ve ever needed for my Z at Ace hardware. Guarantee they’ll have the M5 and M6 hardware you pictured. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And in case anyone is converting from and auto to a manual, and needs a clutch pedal stopper, here was my $4 solution. Everything was purchased at Ace hardware… 3 inch 3/8 elevator bolt Your choice of fender washers 2 nyloc nuts Rubber or felt pad glued to elevator bolt head Drill a 3/8 hole in the footwell, fender washers on either side of the sheet metal, tighten the nylocs on each side and your done. Adjust the height appropriately. In my case, it’s set at 1.8 inches as measured by grannyknot above. It feels very solid and should work fine… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! And that’s 1.8” from the metal firewall to the top of the rubber pad on the stopper? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My car was originally an auto. I’m in the process of restoring it, and I’m getting close. I put a 4 speed in it, but there is no standoff on the firewall to prevent the clutch pedal going to far. Could someone do me a big favor and measure the height of this clutch pedal stopper (including the rubber pad)?? Please measure starting from the metal firewall, not the insulation. Greatly appreciated. Here’s the part I’m referencing… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bought this car as a non running project, so no experience with it before, but everything appeared OK. Yes, they were originally on the car. Yeah, I’m liking that lower torque spec. Yep, I have the oil seal, just didn’t have it installed for the pic. Appreciate the feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1972 240z Alright, I’ve read all the posts regarding this copper washer that was installed as part of a TSB to reduce noise of some kind, and then was done away with in later models. Mine are in fine shape. Leave them in? Or toss them? Or indifference? I can’t seem to arrive at a consensus with what I read. The one advantage to leaving them in is that the TSB says to torque the axle nut to ~120ft/lbs, which is actually attainable with my torque wrench, as opposed to the ~200+ ft/lbs required if you leave the washer out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the collar is about 47mm from the TO bearing face to the fork contact shoulders on the collar. Yep, swapped out the pilot bushing using the bread trick. Couldn’t believe it worked but it worked like magic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, figured I would offer a conclusion to benefit anyone reading through this thread in the future. Yes, the exedy 06009 clutch kit appears to be correct for the longer collar. Stacked everything up as described in other threads and appears to be exactly 92mm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude. Am I going blind? Or my garage lighting is severely lacking. The shaved threads were there the whole time. I dunno how I missed that. Anyways, carryon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Valid, I’ll see if I can get in touch with KYB first. Ugh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good point. I’ll have to grind the shock threads then. I bought the KYB 361001 for the rears, as is recommended. I’ll check those out when I get home and see if they suffer the same problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got them directly from rock auto, so I doubt they’re fakes. Maybe it’s the cost cutting you mentioned. I wonder if it’s better to round out the isolator, or attempt to grind down the shock threads to fit the D shape. Rounding the isolator would obviously be easier, but I’m open to suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Putting the front suspension back together. I bought brand new KYB 361002 struts for the front strut tubes. Is it normal to have to drill out the spring isolator to remove the “D” shaped opening for the shock threads to pass through? Pics below showing the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A chart would be nice. And I know Motorsport would get me the right setup. I’ve used them plenty of times for other parts. I’m just trying to save a buck and cobble together the kit on my own. Ordered the exedy 06009 kit last night. We’ll see how it goes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Far left is 280z standard equipment , far right is 240z standard equipment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty sure I found a post that answers my above question, and the answer is yes, my longer collar should be correct for the exedy 06009 kit. Answer is in the very first post… https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64999-variable-clutch-cover-height-or-thickness-availability/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed, I’d love to get the exedy kit. This is the correct kit for a 280z with a 225 flywheel (which I measured and confirmed is what I have)… https://a.co/d/iPBEEji I also have the Type B collar circled below… Would love to know if the type B 4 speed collar is correct for the exedy 06009 clutch kit but I cant seem to confirm that. It would make sense that the two are compatible given the Type B collar is typically found in 280z’s. And this exedy kit if for a 280z. Anyone out there able to confirm? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Next debacle… Do I get the perfection kit specified for the L28… Or do I get the kit specified for the L24… As the pictures show, the collar height appears slightly different between the two models, which theoretically shouldn’t matter because everything it the kit should work seemlessly together. And the pressure plates appear slightly different. That said, any opinions on which kit weighs less? Every bit helps. I actually read somewhere that the earlier 240z pressure plates were thicker than the 280z ones. So maybe I should choose the L28 kit. Hmmm… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m as perplexed as both of you. I think it’s just a hodgepodge of “make it work” pieces. Who knows. Like zed mentioned, I’m just replacing it all to be sure. Asked my machinist about lightening the flywheel while he was resurfacing it, but the cost would’ve been darn near the price of a fidanza aluminum piece. So I just decided to resurface it for $65. Done, picture attached. Now, selecting a clutch kit. The only 225mm kit that includes a collar, is the perfection clutch kit. It seems to be sold by summit and autozone as well, just with different branding (zoom, duralast). It’s economical and seems to have decent reviews. Zed, I know you weren’t a fan. But it’s the only kit that includes a collar and would eliminate that headache. I’d like to consider exedy, but it doesn’t come with a collar, so I’d then have to do the whole 92mm measurement mess and then spend another $50 on a collar, maybe. Unless someone can confirm that my existing collar will work with the exedy kit, I’ll prolly just order the perfection kit because I know the collar will be right… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As it turns out, the TO bearing part number indicates its intended for a 240sx. And I *think* is facing the correct direction for that application, but questionable in this scenario… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, if I end up getting a 240mm flywheel, I’ll need to get the matching clutch and pressure plate. Unless I get the Fidanza, which is 240mm, but apparently can accommodate either a 240mm or 225mm clutch and pressure plate, which is cool. But before I drop $500 on a setup like that, I’m going to call a few shops and see if I can get my existing 225mm flywheel resurfaced and lightened. Will prolly be significantly cheaper than an aluminum flywheel, and add some performance gains. Then I’ll just pair it with a decent (exedy maybe) clutch/pressure plate, and then go through the whole process of making sure I have the correct SLEEVE, ugh. This is prolly my best bang for the buck to eek out some performance gains, using quality parts, without breaking the bank. The trifecta! We’ll see if I can make it happen… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk