kcpope

Any reason this kit wouldn’t work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/133895036475 I know it’s a 240mm flywheel, buts it’s lightweight at 14.5lbs, so that should make up for the increased size. Also, Made in USA. Anything I’m not considering? Or there’s this kit, more expensive but a more known brand… https://www.ebay.com/itm/133466728393 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool. Regarding 240mm being the only version available, are they painfully slow revving? Anyone with experience on that? Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That was my initial thought too. Looks like it might be on backwards [emoji2361] After looking up prices, flywheels aren’t too bad either, so I’ll prolly just replace the whole flywheel/clutch combo. Regarding flywheel/clutch, any suggestions(or what to avoid)? Or is standard rock auto pieces just fine? Aluminum flywheel prices are outta my range unfortunately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll see about locating some pins. The sleeve you speak of, do you mind elaborating on why it’s critical and what it does? Thanks for all the great info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yeah, here’s the measurement. About 12 inch total diameter of the flywheel. But the portion where the clutch actually rides has a diameter of about 9 inches, which maybe translates to the 225mm you mentioned? Did the fingernail test you mentioned. Almost no ridge. Barely can tell. Also Placed a straight edge on it and shined a light from behind. Very little light passing through. And yes, only one locating dowel. 🫤 not suprised given the hodgepodge nature of the car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cleaned up the fluwheel with some scotch brite. Does that look good enough to reuse? I don’t feel any major surface irregularities… I’ll probably just end up ordering a new pressure plate and clutch setup for the reasons you mentioned. And also, I’m no clutch expert, but there doesn’t appear to be a whole lot of friction material left on this clutch. Maybe someone can chime in and confirm… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Popped the clutch off. Let me know your thoughts. Looks OK to me [emoji2373] The rusty water marks are from me cleaning the engine up recently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting. Nah, it’s a 240z with an L28 in it. Sorry I should’ve mentioned that. Still overkill? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll check out those measurements and see if I can gain some confidence. Thank ya. I guess the other option is to just replace the clutch/pressure/plate/TO bearing while I’ve already got it out. rock auto has them from between 80-120 bucks. Not bad, might be the right call. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure why my previous post is all screwy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the clutch appears to be from a local clutch shop, All Clutch Systems in Santa Ana, CA. They’re still in business so that’s a good sign. Upon further inspection, I found a part number 613015 on the throw out bearing. Looks like it’s intended for a 240SX. Interesting. Is it even possible to install a clutch from a 240sx onto an L28? I guess it is to some degree cuz I’m looking at it… Seeing as it feels smooth, I’ll likely just leave it alone and reinstall it until I’m ready to replace the clutch somewhere down the road. If it is unique to this particular kit, I don’t want to throw a new bearing on it and find out it doesn’t work. We’ll see how it goes. Here’s another couple pics for folks who didn’t see the vid… Here’s a closer pic of my fork. A bit worn, probably. But hopefully still usable… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My throw out bearing looks different than everything I see on the interwebs. Is this normal? Check out the video below for my question. Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Zed Head, appreciate the reply. Next question… Seeing as I have a 280zx alternator with the internal regulator, I’m going to eliminate the external voltage regulator by adding the MSA adapter: https://www.thezstore.com/product/178/alternator-upgrade-adaptor-70-72-240z But what about this random diode shown here in the picture. What’s it for, and is it ok to unplug it as well? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the life of me I can’t tell if this alternator in my parts bin has an internal voltage regulator or not. No markings on the case unfortunately. How can I know for sure? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, rack moves easily fully left and fully right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just rebuilt my rack. Just a PSA regarding the rubber boots. The MOOG ones listed on rock auto will be way too big. These ones from beck/arnley, part number 103-2697, are a better fit. Not perfect, but definitely workable. I believe they’re technically for a Miata. About $15 each on Amazon. Just thought I’d share in case somebody else is having trouble finding something that fits… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll take some pics of mine when I get home so you can see. Yes, it really squeezes the seal tight and that outer lip will deform outward and should form a tight seal. As you’re pressing and installing each screw, just keep an eye on the seal and maybe using a soft plastic pick or hook of sorts, use it to gently pull that outer lip outwards if need be. That said, I don’t recall having to do this much at all. I’ll take pics in a bit… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, forgot to mention the soapy water. I used that as well, works well, and doesn’t leave a mess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just did this 2 weeks ago, also using the precision seals. Yes, taller lip should be towards outside of car. Yes, required nearly ALL of my weight to press the window deep into the pocket and attempt to start the screw. So you’re on the right track. Only thing I could think is that maybe you didn’t clean off enough of the old seal or have too much glue built up so it’s becoming too tight[emoji2373] Just throwing out ideas… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had the same issue. One side was acceptable, maybe 1/4 inch proud. The other side was like 3/4 inch proud. Hinges were not worn and had very little slop, and I was maxed out on the adjustment holes. I tried everything. I noticed that without the tension rods installed, it sat perfect, so I opted to just leave the tension rods out and use a wooden hood prop when I’m tooling around in there. Not sure if you’re willing to do that, but it worked for me and seemed to be a better solution than elongating the hinge mounting holes, etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice, looks clean[emoji1360] As is typical with my car, nothing ever seems to be plug and play. Do you know if the seal you received from Z store was a Precision brand seal? I’m assuming it was, but just curious. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like grannyknot said, it’s not technically OEM style. But it works OK, looks clean, and doesn’t require glue. It’s very similar to the Kia seal that everyone’s been using, which is NLA, unless you find one at a junkyard. This one is cheap and readily available on Amazon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No adhesive required. Which is very nice cuz I hate cleaning that stuff up. The seal itself has a malleable metal channel molded into it that gives it “teeth” to stay put. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tempting, how much are you looking to sell for? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies everyone. I ended up using some generic side bulb seal from Amazon. I tried several bulb seals but again, they were all too thick and cause my hatch to protrude way past the body line. The seal I ended up using is actually too small in the lower hatch corners and doesn’t seal all the way. I’ll have to add some foam selectively to keep fumes out. See last pic. I will say it looks very tidy though, and does offer a decent seal around 80% of the hatch. Trim Seal with Side Bulb | PVC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMYS3W4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk