gundee

I know. We both typed a reply at Exactly the same time. I saw yours after I submitted mine. Bad #4 cylinder plug.. No compression test report on it. All rest of cylinders were reported at 100 psi. Does not compute.

So you still have a dead cylinder on number 4? You did not mention any changes or repairs to that cylinder.

Wondering. For those of you that have taken a booster apart, how difficult was it to separate the housing? Did you fabricate a tool like shown in the FSM to twist it apart?

It does sit higher. I added all the plastic spacers on the bottom mounting studs. Easier for this these old legs to get in and out.

Installed my Recaro seat I found on Craigslist. Feels and fits great. Put my 240Z sliders on it. Did not come with any.

Don't recall what you guys have but mine is his 260-70F grind. My N42 block with N42 head does not have the compression to run anything more aggressive.

Got my rebuilt N42 head back together. Next is to get it installed on car this week. Schneider regrind cam.

If this were a street car I would run it as is. Being a race engine I would replace the crank completely if it were mine. I would not risk a expensive damper on that crank. IMO.

You would then use TTT's NRCA's. Specs as follows from their site. These Negative Camber RCA's will provide 2.8 degrees of camber on a car dropped 2". On a car dropped 3" they will provide 3.1 degrees of negative camber (these figures are IN ADDITION to the camber your car already has, so if you already have 1.2 degrees of camber at 2" drop, then you would have 4 degrees overall of negative camber) https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/negative-camber-roll-center-adjusters-240z-260z-and-280z

Got my rebuild head back from machine shop so I am starting to reassemble. Then out to put back on these 6 open holes. Head photo soon.

Never saw Bilstein springs for a Z car before. Didn't know they made them. With that wheel and tire set up it does not look like there is much room left to lower anymore.

Your work is looking really good. It will all pay off when finished. I was at a vintage race and there was a restoration shop there. In his tent was a Mustang, a Camero, a Chevelle and a Dodge Charger I think it was, displayed. I asked him how the replacement panels they use are for fitment. He said not very good. They have to cut, weld, etc just to get all the gaps correct. So the Imports are not alone in this issue. Another thing is the car itself. That rocker may just fit fairly good on another 240Z. A good reason restoration shop work is so expensive. Just think what it would cost if you had to pay a shop to do all that you have done so far.

Nissan and Italdesign have created a new prototype vehicle – the Nissan GT-R50 by Italdesign – in their first-ever collaboration' https://www.wheels24.co.za/NewModels/without-limits-nissan-unleashes-the-gt-r50-by-italdesign-20180701

Its not your distributor weights or anything else inside causing your #4 problem. Maybe a bad plug wire but I think that cylinder will need another compression test. You are now running on 5 cylinders with the looks of that plug.

Keeping the marriage finely tuned. https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2018/06/27/why-i-drive-til-death-do-us-datsun

Yup. OEM Nissan Only! No Bosch for me.

It does look like it was gone over a buffer and buffing compound. That can quickly cut through the top oxidized surface. It really could be the original paint. You can usually find evidence of overspray some where, but I really did not see any.

I don't see any Vietnam made bumper company listed. You lost me. Where did you order these from?

Or as I call it. Hollyweird. https://www.wsj.com/articles/a-classic-datsun-z-gets-a-hollywood-ending-1528810187

Lets get a photo of your compression tester too. Do you have a good o-ring on it?

Those numbers do not sound right. Back further in this thread you posted a test from 2015 that showed 180psi to 185psi all the way across. That would show a very healthy engine. If the new numbers are now correct then something happened and needs to be corrected before any further tuning can be done. It would be fruitless.

Interesting topic. Many opinions I am sure. https://petrolicious.com/articles/the-top-ten-classic-six-cylinders-ever

Kats, he may have made the adapter for his engine stand. I do not recall. When I get to his shop again I will see if I can photo it. He lives in another town.

Can you unbolt the top and drop the strut down to get some better photos on what is going on? That would be helpful as we are not there.

Looks to me that maybe the top insulator flat is not turned to the shock threaded flat. Thus not seated all the way. But then could you even get the nut started on the threads?