gundee

I do love Chinese restaurants though. ? I will say both sides stuff their pockets full of lobbyist money equally. Our biggest mistake is we do not have term limits. We might have better jobs and quality products then. Thats it for me. I'm done.

My first ever trip to Georgia and Road Atlanta was in 1972. We flew down and rented the cheapest car we could. A Ford Pinto. Ha! Low budget in those days. I also recall having some rain. It was then I discovered how slippery that red Georgia clay can be. Heck of a time getting that Pinto to move from where we were parked. I remember the Paddock and all the Datsuns were under one large tent, I think it was paid for by Datsun. Wish I could find those photos.

I seem to recall one of the aftermarket rear bumpers had an issue where some said the arc of the center section did not have enough curvature and came too close or hit the rear body valence. That was supposed to be retooled and corrected. I don't see anyone mention that now though.

Speaking of swaybar links, I was in the process of reinstalling my rear bar. I am looking at the links being the same length and the factory control arms flipped side to side. This gives me the thought now one control arm is closer to swaybar end then the other. And I have 2 links the same length. Hmmmm. That"s going to put my bar in a preload when tightened up. I am thinking now I should have shortened that one link a long time ago. Anyone else done this or just cranked on the same links on both ends.

I would want to set the coilovers to the height I want first. Then get camber and castor set to good handling specs. Search for some recommended settings. I would want to add some additional camber and castor over stock settings. Drive awhile to get suspension set. Then try to install swaybar. In the meantime get that swaybar off the car and detail it! ☺️

Rubber bushings or poly? That set up looks like big suspension bind to me. Run it for awhile not hooked up. May feel better without swaybar.

After more reading I found some posts saying a .040 overbore will clear the ex. valve. They were referring to the L26 head mostly, but the N42 has the same size valve. However the N42 has the larger intake. Not sure about that clearance. I do have a shaved L26 E88, so I will just use that head. Wont be able to tell the difference anyway I guess. This is going to be put back together as a numbers matching block for resale value when I sell it. Hopefully I will not have to do that for sometime yet. Age, it gets harder to get in and out of the car every year.

As the title says I have my L24 bored 1mm over and pistons. I also have rebuilt N42 with new valves. Anyone tried this combination with a N42 head? Any valve clearance problem found?

Now I don't know what to think. Do you still have the old master cyl? I might want to verify if the depth of the m/c plunger on the new one is the same as the old one

Need all new valve guides and clips for my 240 head. Do the Nissan and the ITM version come with the retaining clips? Also, The parts manual shows different p/n for intake and exhaust. Some sellers say they are the same guide for both. Anyone purchased and installed any lately? Thanks.

Symptom of reaction disc falling out when changing master cylinder. Fairly common. Happened to me. Pull master and push rod. Fish out rubber disc and glue on to end of rod and reinstall rod and master.

Or how to wear out the insides of your tires really fast. http://www.speedhunters.com/tag/wekfest-japan-2018/

This is how my car works too. If I want to add driving lights, I can wire them direct where I live. Hi or Lo beam does not matter. My 240Z is prewired for either fog or driving lights. Wiring does not go through the Hi/Lo switch.

That side mount engine stand is the way to go. A friend here has one for L24 26 28 engines.

I did not see anything about the sole remaining original BRE 240Z that Gerry Mason owns. Was he not in attendance?

Beautiful. Did he build that or is that Ron Carters former car?

Just a word of caution for those new to assembling a cylinder head. From my engine shop guy. DO NOT use any sort of assembly lube on your valve stems. This can definitely cause a valve to stick.

Who's car is he driving?

With stock valves and stock compression you would want to talk to a cam grinder first for his recommendation. Stage 3 sounds a little much for your stock set up if that is what you have.

Correct again. I contacted a friend from PA who spent the 70's and early 80's traveling to many tracks as a crew member. He said this is definitely Lime Rock on the way to turn 1.

Some repairs need along the way. https://bringatrailer.com/2018/04/18/datsun-drive-to-the-mitty-part-1-from-phoenix-to-tucson-to-see-superjmutt-and-his-alfa-romeo-giulia-super/

https://bringatrailer.com/2018/04/15/were-driving-a-240z-to-road-atlanta-for-the-mitty/

Where do you get that? My Fusion and Sonota are not wired like that from the Factory.

Now I see you are talking about your magnetic pick up gap. I am talking about spark plug gap as recommended by that Company.

Good grief. I thought this carb issue was solved already. Anyway, if I remember, you were running a Pertronix ignition setup. Use their gap. not stock gap.