gundee

There really is just 2. The first 2 are the same. Second one supersedes the first one.

Lean that back carb out a bit more. Probably carbon. Should clean themselves up. Bump that timing up to 17 degrees. Makes a difference how it runs.

We are starting to get there as far as plugs starting to look the same. Manual says 2-1/2 turns with 17 degrees advance. Lean them out just a little more and see how the car runs.

Do Not use anti seize on plugs. If you do get the copper impregnated type. You must have a good ground path on the threads for plugs.

Rear carb is trying to make up for the front carb being too lean. Clear to see. Still don't know why. Likely an air leak up front. Also set your timing up to 17 degrees from 14.

Nothing wrong with checking that front float. It seems to me it would have to be stuck in a very high position as to allow only a bit of fuel into the bowl. Lack of fuel or too much air in the front carb. = lean.

I do not think float issue at all from what I see. A float a little off does not make plugs on that carb white. Put the thing back together. What is that item doing that I circled above?

Now I am going to say the carbs are likely correct. 1. I do believe the rear carb responds to mixture adjustments as it should. 2. I believe the front carb is not responding to mixture adjustments like it should. 3. Lets get our heads around that front carb. What would make it lean? Excess air is likely. I no longer have SU's on my Z so I need to go by memory and years of working on British cars with SU's.

Is this doing anything?

The next thing while the dome and pistons are removed you can turn the jets knobs to the full up position. Then look. Do they look the same depth. Are we starting with both jets at the same position. For example turning a jet knob 2-1/2 turns down does not mean they are the same if the starting points are different. Did you say these were Z-Therapy carbs?

One thing I would do is remove the domes, and pull the pistons. To check if the needles are set the same depth in the piston. If one is recessed into the piston more than that one would be rich compared to the other.

I agree with you. I think one carb is lean and one is rich for some reason. The motor itself I think is good. So lets try to find a way to get the plugs to match. Lets all take a look at the carb and manifold picture if we can get one. Also do you have a carb sync tool?

Advance the timing more. Seems to be needing it.

You seem to be just fine with the coil and resistor you have. Save your money. On the plugs, Its just that you have purchased a few new sets of plugs in the past. You could pick out the best 6 you have unless you threw them all away. If you want to buy another set, thats up to you. Nothing wrong with it except money. Just keep driving it. It should get better.

Hard to say not knowing the air density in Panama. Try just 2 turns down and see how that feels. You can always go more if needed. Sure would be nice to know what the previous owner has the timing set at. If that has never been adjusted.

Plugs are brand new. Clean as best you can and use. They will begin to clean themselves up with the new hot spark. Just keep driving it. Do you know how to use a timing light? Should check where it as at. Keep going. You will be able to smoke the tires soon!

NO! Do not do that. Do not revert. Do not try anything else. The 3 ohm coil is different wiring. DON'T.

Thinking about that red wire, it come with an eye type connector. In that case all you would do is remove the nut on the resistor where I showed the arrow previous above. Put the wire over the post and re-install the nut. Keep the black/white wire as it is now with its the spade connector. Here is what you want it to look like.

Ok you are good on the coil. It was upside down and we could not see that. I am sure the resistor is good as well. What you need to do next is pull the red wire off the coil (looks like that is where it is) and put it on the resistor side i showed. That gets you full 12V from the ignition sw. Yes it can run that way but not correctly. The Pertronix instructions are not clear for your Z as its written for all 12V negative ground cars. The term crank and run are not the same. Cranking is turning over the engine to start. When it starts, then it is running. You will have to get a twin connector to replace the single connector on the resistor side with the black/white wire. Those two wires get connected to the same side of the resistor primary. That is the 12V from the ignition switch. Do this and hang on when you drive it.

jalexquijano. Pay attention to stop your suffering. This is where the red wire goes. See attached. Do you even know the resistance of your coil? 1.5 or 3? Nothing good happens until the ignition is correct.

This is what I am getting at. This will cause that.

OK, this is your car and the other you posted is someone else car. Now where did you connect that red wire from the distributor?

Enough with the compression tests already. Has nothing to do with his issue.

Now on this last post of your you show a completely different coil and resistor ignition set up then what you posted above. Which one is your car. This last photo you posted does not show where you connected the red wire. This is important.

Where did you put that red wire from the Pertronix ignitor from the distributor? I don't see it where it is supposed to be. Who installed that set up?