gundee

I can I can add that even though the price may seem high to some, madkaw is including around $800 or so in heat shield, jets, spares & misc. I am talking from my own experience. Buying a set without these and you will find out soon what the real cost is.

I asked this question when I ordered my Rewinds. They said use the "bulge" style lug nuts. Not the tapered ones.

Changed the rear spoiler to body color. I like it better.

Unseasonal 68 degrees here today. Trying some different jetting then one last drive. Then on jackstands to get wheels off the ground for winter. Drove her less than 300 miles this summer.

My L28 is a N42 with N42 head. All the valve seats are steel. I don't really know if mine came from a 75 or 76 model 280Z.

There was a pair just on Ebay for 2 weeks that were what you are looking for but sold. Sometimes you have to buy a pair to get what you want. A single of the side you want that needs no repair are very hard to find. Very lucky if you do find one.

Yes you can if its just event touring or a track day event. Are you racing E Production SCCA?

Do you mean like this Sebring team car? Hmmmm.

You can but you don't have to. They are 2 seperate systems. Front first or rear first. Whatever makes you feel better.

Yes, I asked the vintage race engine builder that has done some work for me. When I asked what he does he said 30wt oil, set down and let drain for 20 minutes. Then install and torque.

Old diagram. Hope this helps. The MSD6A and the 6AL wire the same way.

If that were my car, I would send it to Mecum, Barrett Jackson, Russo & Steele or Gooding and Company. I would not even think twice. But to each his own. I think they would recommend you raise the car back up some to get more attention. Many potential $$$ buyers are not after that look.

The Hollenbeck Team GT3 240Z from New York in the Nissan tent.

I usually removed my fan. No heat issues with the tripple core radiator on mine.

I recently removed all four rubber brake hoses and replaced with new braided stainless flex lines.

Count me in with the exact same issue. Leak for the past two summers. Not real bad. I think mine could be transmission seal because I changed to synthetic Redline gear oil. I don't think the old origional 1978 transmission oil seal likes that. Clutch is not slipping. Car gets put away for Winter in a month so no fix this year. I guess in Spring I will drop the gearbox and replace both the transmission seal and rear engine seal.

I have an electric pump on my 1972 connected to the factory preinstalled wiring. It runs with the key on and engine not running. Can't speak for a 260Z. But you can hear the pump if it is running for sure.

I installed a Centerforce clutch kit with my aftermarket light flywheel. Never any problems with mine. Not sure what they are refering to.

Photo from 2005.

This is the earliest I could find of my 72 240. I believe this is from 1978.

Don't know if this was posted yet. $225K. Would only be worth $120K max to me. Just can't go that much. Way to many other cars on my list I would like. http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1907-Nissan-Fairlady Z 432-2.0 Liter Inline DOHC 6-Cylinder

Came from Nissan Motorsports catalog a very long time ago. They are no longer available as far as I know. Try Japan or Australia for a JDM origional. Not likely to find one however. Just replicas.

This is the version I have. I used to have 2 of these but sold one on ebay several years ago unfortunately.

My 2/72 build did the same thing at the exact same spot. In my case the radiator had the core replaced as the origional was plugged up too bad to flush. A while after I got it back this happened so it could have been done poorly at the radiator shop. I took it back and they repaired it and never a problem after that. Over 20 years ago now.

So once tightened are you saying the lock pin is still necessary or not necessary?