gundee

I am putting new valve seals on and just want to ask the preferred method. One thing I have never changed out. Just don't want to damage them. Then the SS valves and new springs.

It sure is a beauty. Your valve train was way worse than I ever expected. Good idea going with the new replacements. No wonder it was so noisy.

This is the block side with the head gasket still on. Its no big deal I guess. This L28 engine came from a 75 automatic and no clue on the mileage. Should rebuild it but thats not in the cards right now. I have a E31 modified with larger SS 280 valves. I am going to put this on as an experiment as you don't see it done too much on a dish pistons. Still will not have even 9.0 to 1 CR. Schneider ground my cam for this set up. It is shipped and should have this week. Maybe I can get a photo of the E31 head posted too.

Now that you mention that I did remove the head bolts last November and did not get back on it until last week. I will post the block photo.

I was getting a small of coolant loss and and found some evidence here pictured. Does it look like to anyone here this may have been leaking into either no. 1 or 2 cylinder? I have a rebuilt E31 going back on as a replacement. I will eventually rebuild this N42 head.

With mine, I am running a 4:11 diff ratio with the 78 - 5 speed. I am using 205/60-15 to give me the oem tire diameter. While it is fun around town, on the highway in 5th it just feels like it wants another gear shift. With my set up I may look for a 3.70 diff.

If those were original lash pads they were shot from wear ages ago. New pads likely would have been enough.. I never would have spent the money on rocker arms until I tried the new pads first. But nothing wrong with what you did. Except if you are doing all that then upgrade that old worn out camshaft with a modern regrind and new pads. IMO.

I have the Professional Products single groove damper. Super tight. Could not even get it started. Sitting back in the box on the shelf. It measured .001 smaller ID than the OEM damper. I plan to hone it half a thousanth and with some heat it should hopefully go on. After the cylinder head gets finished and back the engine on first.

Yes, that to was why I got sent to a RAF Base in UK to keep our F4's ready and loaded in case the Ruskys decided to invade Europe. I usually saw the sun about once every 2 weeks. That was the first time I ever saw or drove a roundabout.

Could have been worse, as in KI Sawyer AFB in the Upper Peninsula. Now closed.

Looking at the recent thread showing tank vent hose replacement, this reminds me of what I found last year. The photo here shows the vent hose location above the muffler. That grommet had popped out where it enters the cabin. I reinstalled and then sealed it up real good. That was it. A real pleasure to drive with the windows down again. Just another thing to check.

Seats are so low neither one can see over the dash. Kind of hard to drive I would think. Jay seems to have a had time seeing what lane he is in. Loud is ok if you had an interior and sound deadning installed. I think Jay knows more about 240Z's than the other 3 put together. I was surprised how unaware they are.

Yes they have been out of the .175 for a long time now. I recall reading somewhere that .170 and .180 were commonly used. I suspect he had these .175's made up special to cover both sizes. I was wondering what size MSA was shipping now. Schneider is grinding my cam and I have a set of .170 and a set of .180. If it needs .190 I will just have to buy some more.

It hit 63 degrees here today so I got back to work on removing the head on my N42 L28 engine. Got the intake and exhaust manifolds removed. I had previously removed the head bolts. I did not think one was coming out without snapping off. Very corroded, but I got it. I don't think this head has ever been off. The cam is already at Schneider to be reground.

I had this happen to two different cars I had. The lines had rusted through. Pedal went right to floor. When they say "dual braking system", that's Bull. If either end goes you have nothing!

Yes it definitely looks to be the late L26 head at 47.8 cc. With the stage 3 cam you are using, i would shave it more if it were me. All the engine calculators I have seen list all the E88 heads same at 44.7 cc. They need to correct that to add the later L26 head with the bigger volume.

To some people a few mechanical repairs and a respray is a Restoration. May have been 20 years ago also.

You seem not to know what you even have. Instead of having everyone jumping thru hoops why not just photo what you have. Because I have no clue what you are talking about. It keeps morphing from one thing to another. IMO.

Did you restain it walnut or clearcoat origional? Or both?

That Gunson Colortune you have is the one of the best tools I purchased. Really helped me set up my Mikunis.

Great! Did not realize you had the wires corrected. The sound does not play on my computer but can't wait to hear it later.

I see yet another car with the side markers on backwards.

Look at my wire locations and compare to yours. My No. 1 wire is about at 9 o'clock and my No.5 wire is at 6 o'clock. Yours wires are positioned one spot counter clockwise from mine. Look at your rotor you have pictured at TDC. Its pointing to your No. 4 plug wire. No.1 should be there.

Exactly. That is the first thing to check before you do anything. If that is off you will be chasing your tail.

This is my 240 distributor in my 280Z block. Works well. I have to see if I have a photo with the cap on as it ran excellent in the position I have it set up.