gundee

That car should run and idle perfect with all that has been put into it. Even if it did run at 3/4 on the temp gauge. By the looks of those plugs it looks like the choke is stuck. Plugs are loading up. That is not from heat. Being in Panama I would disconnect the choke cables from the linkage and make sure the jet tubes are pushed all the way up. (off) Then set the mixture per the video and go. I would also back up and verify the cam timing was installed correctly since you changed cams. I don't think all those ignition timing changes will do much unless that cam is correct. What say you Z Therapy?

The spark plug gap per the factory service manual says .031 to .035. Pertronix says you can add .005 on top of that if you wish, using their coil. Some really don't notice that much difference. I have my Pertronix set at .035 plug gap. That particular camshaft is actually their lowest grind. No problems there. May want to advance the cam gear to hole number 2 if not already.

The Mikuni intake I have is also all separate runners. The brakes work just as good as with the prior SU's. I just got new individual adjusters to get a much better carb sync. Have to wait till Spring though now.

1. He is running a Pertronix set up in his distributor. 2. He has the internal regulated alternator upgrade per photos.

I see you have the Nissan single groove crank pulley as well. Nice. I have one myself.

He specified the photos for you to take in post #53. A photo with the valve cover off and the crank pulley timing marker set to zero would be nice as well.

I was thinking I spelled that wrong.

I recall a driver from the South dropping off a shipment at work. We were talking and he used the phrase " I youstacould". That was a new one on me. Never forgot that.

What Chickenman said. I was trying to get the same idea across. It would be very important that the dimension shown by the red line be the same.

No this is a E31. My E88 has the same markers. I sold the P90 and I don't recall what that looked like.

Its been so long ago I had to look. Yup vent holes. Correct for my 72.

Anyone opinion. Are these dimples depth markers related to head cut maximum? Or just related to the casting process.

Sorry. I bought the last pair in the US in 1990. And I can't sell them as they are welded on my car.

I did see a place that sold the deck carpet separate as I recall. I will see if I can find it again.

Those all look like 1972's. If any of the few silver ones have a red interior, could be mine. Wonder how may hundreds or thousands were red interior in 1972. That single blue one I see with the white interior is fairly rare. I have only seen one.

Just cut them off and replace. MSA stocks those lines. I replaced mine with the MSA ones. Like yours mine were original from 1972 and need to be replaced for safety.

They are hit and miss. Sometimes you get a reply from them and sometimes not. Go MSA.

I happen to know a person in the pet food business. He makes trips to China to find the cheapest junk to put in their blends. I think most all makers do the same unfortunately. I don't trust all Vets either. Some accept money to recommend a product. Just like many Doctors on the payroll of drug companies.

Posted by Jai on November 11th. "This morning RedBird started great and warmed up with no problem. Drove to the body shop, (story about that below). Leaving there, started and drove to the local flea market. When leaving the flea market she started and then stalled. Jumped out and QUICKLY opened hood to look at the fuel gauge. It was exactly on 30. Tried to restart her, and she willingly did."

I talked to Jerry at Schneider about a cam such as yours that I have. He said 10.5 to 11.0 CR required. Too high for pump gas. He also says the 300 duration puts you outside of the street RPM driving range. Try it out and let us know.

I know Jai reported on one of the previous occasions she did open the hood and the gauge read good pressure. Ignition?

I don't think you installed 2 new rear struts. I think you mean new shocks I assume. If you just installed the shocks, that really does not do much for ride height unless a person installed the old discontinued high pressure Bilstein shocks. Now those raised the car. Been there done that. A 240Z shock can go into a 280Z strut. You need to verify if you have a 280Z strut installed.

I keep coming back around full circle that a 280Z strut may be installed on the side that is low. If you were to put 240Z springs on a 280Z strut, I think that is exactly how it would sit. Measure the length of both struts to see if same length. That will help get past that possibility.

Does the car drive? Have you had it out on rough road and beat the heck out of it yet? What does it look like after that? Any noises or rubbing?

The first photos showing the gap was good for starters. You want to post photos with the rear wheels off the car so we can help to see what is going on. Side on photos and shots from the rear forward.