gundee

Forget that connector with violet and green wires. You will not use those on your set up. That is for crank trigger set ups only. Did you get the 8910 tach adapter with your setup? You will need that to get the tach to work and the FI system as well. Use the wire diagram with the kit that says points/amplifier style ignition.

Have to disagree here. The subject valve in the rear of the Z is in fact a proportioning valve. This is clearly spelled out and in diagram as well in the FSM. The Z does not have a seperate residual pressure valve. It is not required in this case because the rear drums are the self-adjusting type on the Zcar.

It took me a while but I see the top has been chopped. It really does look like a Corvette that way. I would say they were trying to make it look like a Vette for whatever reason.

I have tripple Mikuni's with an inline Holley fuel pressure regulator. It has a tap for a fuel pressure guage that I recently got around to installing. These carbs prefer approx. 3-1/2 psi. My guage was showing 2 psi. I opened the regulator up further and further and still could get only 2psi max. Well the fuel pump is 15 years old but in terms of mileage it has maybe 20K miles on it at the most. I decided to replace it with a new one thinking that could be the problem. After I am done replacing, I start car and see what I have now for psi. Its still reading 2 psi! It finally just struck me sitting here that I have the fuel return line hooked up. That has to be it. I am wondering now if the SU's had a restricter in the return. I sold my SU set up a long time ago so I cannot look. What do you guys think?

JetDoc I was reading your earlier post and you said your rod length was right on. I am sure it probably was because they do not move out of adj. by themselves. Never the less, the telltale sign of the a booster reaction disc problem is that you lose your pedal when the engine is running. Go to Search and type in "reaction disc". You will find what you need to do. It has happened to a lot of us.

You are correct on the wires. The load terminal always will go to the item being powered. In this case the fuel pump.

Another fix from Carl Beck. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AccelLinkage.htm

I have done clutches on 5 different sports cars. MGB Austin Healy TR-6 AC Cobra 240Z I will take the 240Z job anytime over those others.

I was talking to a guy who works on cars for a living. He says all the vehicles now come with an inertia fuel cut off safety switch. I have a Ford Tarus. I think I will check if mine has one, what it costs.

Rick On my 72 there is an inline fuseholder for the elec. fuel pump behind the fuse box. It requires a 20amp fuse. Your is probably the same. You just may need the fuse to power up existing pump wires. Mine also runs without a safety cutoff. Something I have been meaning to get to. Seems every Spring when I get it out of storage I keep forgetting.

That is a real good point about the modern radial tires. With that flat tread I don't imagine they like much camber like we used to run.

Years ago before the coilovers were widely available, most of us that autocrossed our Z cars cut our springs. Just take it easy and don't cut too much and bottom out the shock. Some of the guys used front lower control arms from I believe a 710 sedan. They were longer and gave more neg. camber. They would press out the 710 bushings and press in the 240Z bushings and install. Worked good. There still may be some of old Z's running around with control arms from other models.

Tom; The ign fuse recieves power when the key switch is in the run position. Both with and without the motor running. Try this next. Unplug the volt regulator, unplug the oil press sw. on the engine, unplug the temp sensor on the head,unplug the fuel sender wire at the tank, the hazard sw.,and finally the turn signal flasher. Next put in a new 20amp fuse. Then turn the key to run position. Do not start car. See if the fuse blows. Those are the items the fuse feeds so it would help to see what happens.