gundee

Without seeing it, sounds like its the set up where Datsun mounted their rear sway bars starting in 1973. I have a Bob Sharp rear bar that mounts like that.

My 72 came with that bracket and the wiring installed. I just figured all the 72's here came that way.

OK. This is a compromise method that I think works better anyway. Hold assembly hanging as shown. Tip just enough to touch but not depress needle valve. Take measurement.

Look at dimension 'H' Then read paragraph 2 above again and again. I cannot explain it any better without being there.

Read post 79 again.

NO.

You have gone this far and spent a lot of money with poor results. I would absolutely install a NEW pair of floats.

The way I read the 72 FSM, yes, that would be the correct setting. Then you can set the mixture as needed.

The FSM states for a N42 L28 with dished pistons, the compression is 164 to 178 psi. A bit low but all still very even so just fine to drive if you do not want to pull apart for now. I see no issue. I would look elsewhere for any problems.

Funny you should mention that. I was going to ask if that traffic idle issue was when the A/C compressor kicked in. That would be a common problem I would think if no way to compensate. This already may have been talked about. There have been many posts by you on your issues and I have not been thru all of them in detail.

+1 You need a new mechanic.

"Stronger valve springs" This is primarily why I went to the softer Schneider spring kit over the Isky kit. Easier on the camshaft.

Last time I looked at the original color, the impression I got was a dark satin grey, (or is it gray) but with a tint of dark bronze. That's what I was after looking for a can of spray. I did find one close like others here did. I can't find the can but maybe I kept the cover. I am still looking.

I really like that color. Paint your spoiler the same. Would look great!

That reminds me I taught my sister to drive a stick with my first car, an Austin Healy. Thankfully the clutch held up. On that car you pull the motor to change the clutch. I just had to have that car. My dad said no problem, you pay for it and I just only co-sign your loan. You miss any payments the bank owns it. Forget help from me he said. That was incentive to always keep a job to pay for it. He was a hard nose Norwegian. Good learning experience.

Likely a used battery he put in for testing the engine. We really don't know its condition. A load test would tell. Also did you see he just set the battery cable on the post to start it? Its not even tightened yet.

That's great. They should keep you busy and out of trouble for a long time. Didn't know you had two 69's. I have my hands full with just one Z. And some of you guys have several Z's.

I am going to take a guess that this car was built for autocrossing judging on what you found so far. Engine mods, flywheel, shocks, ST springs etc. But the main thing that makes me think this is the Centerline wheels. Back in the day when I was heavy into it, all the fast guys liked that particular wheel as it was the lightest one at the time. Check the steering knuckles for the Datsun Comp short quick steer ones. Those are keepers. Put stock ones on for resale. Also check to see if it has a limited slip differential.

This is the later E88 head I plan to use. Back from machine shop with all new OEM valves.

Yes these are original equipment. I purchased them when they were still available. The person rebuilding the motor wanted me to get these.

Took a photo of one of the buckets that are going in. Yup, they have eyebrows. Indicate the taller piston?