gundee

Here we go again. March 11-12. http://www.rmsothebys.com/am17/amelia-island/lots/1970-nissan-fairlady-z-432/1702023

Zedy, We have the same color 240Z. Even though the wheels are advertised as satin black they look too flat to me to complement the silver paint and the chrome bumpers. Satin black to me is more a mid point between flat and gloss. I just don't see it in these wheels color. But you are close and on the right track. If mine I think I would try coating them with a clear wheel paint to make them pop out more. The wheel color does however look good on Porsche's. I would look at some to see what black looks good on those cars. Just IMO.

I decided on Vogtland also and received my 240Z springs last week. They definitely do not look progressive like Eibachs. They do look a lot heavier spring than I thought. Have to wait now as its going to be April before its warm enough to install these. The (VA) fronts are 12 coils and a free length of 12-1/2 inches. Rate 152 pounds. The (HA) rears are 10 coils and a free length of 11-1/2 inches. Rate 170 pounds.

With the suspension together on car, you attach wrench from bottom and push both locknuts towards the rear of car to loosen. Hope that explains it enough for you to figure out.

You can also buy 5mm wheel spacers to fit the Z car.. That may be enough to give the clearance needed.

How about this kit? You get slave and hose too. Can't beat that price. https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/pts/5990485862.html

Before doing anything else. Pull the valve cover and post a photo. If anything is amiss there, someone here will spot it for you.

The springs I have now are black aftermarket. No marking. When I bought them from another guy he said they were Tokico. Did they make theirs black? Maybe they had decals instead of printing and were taken off. The thing is they sat way too high for my liking. So I cut them to lower it. Problem is that makes a spring even stiffer. Really have no clue what their rate was and are now.

Can you be more specific? Getting mixed messages here. Loosing speed or shutting off as in key off?

Ok, if that is the case then Jai you have a California model 280Z. According to the 75 - 76 280Z FSM, Federal had dual pick-ups and California only had the single pick up. This is a bit confusing as Jai said it was purchased new in Kansas and not in California. Now I need to look into that. I am going with ignition since it reacts as if you just shut off the key.

I do have another idea. Has anyone looked. Is her distributor the Federal model with the dual pick-ups under the cap?

Jai, How do you plan to get the car to the shop if not running? How far away is it? I just had a $178 exhaust repair today on my daily driver. I could have bought you the whole clutch kit for that cost.

Here is a photo of the kit I had from Datsun Comp Department. The perch's were welded on higher up. I did measure but can no longer recall the amount. I did talk to D. Roberts at Datsun Comp and he said the perch was made higher for race tire clearance as I recall.

R180 on top. R200 on bottom. More beef on the R200 bar and larger holes. Copied photo. Not mine

site, what spring kit are you running on both of yours? I like how they sit. I am planning going new Eibach's on mine. Or maybe Vogtland springs. The ones I have now are just way too harsh for the street. My tooth fillings are comeing loose.

That is where I bought mine a few years ago. They had the best price. I went with 205-60/15 to decrease wheel gap. I have since purchased a set of Eibach springs and will put those on this spring when weather warms up again. The other reason I went with the 205-60 tire is I wanted a bigger diameter to decrease highway RPM's as I run a 4:11 differential.

I had not seen that. A friend in NY just emailed me the link today. I was going to post but I see you beat me to it. This will be me as well pretty soon I think.

I don't think anything exhaust related. I have had a plugged muffler. Its not like these symtons. Its another electrical/ignition issue or fuel pump issue I personally think. Did you take a mirror underneath to look at the G3 filter that was installed. You have only put less than 3000 miles on the car since it was repaired. Tune ups not necessary. Finding issue - necessary.

I agree. I also run 205/60-15.

Running points. If so replace and set gap correctly. I fixed onejust like yours and that is all it was.

There is the main fast idel screw on top. Use that to crank up the RPMs to check timing. This timing check is a nothing deal. Does sound like an ignition issue. Not sure what though right now.

I have been lucky with no cracks on my 72. But I have had a SCCA style bolt in roll bar for 30 plus years. Same as what MSA sells. I think it has helped reduce the flex alot. A good idea to go along with your repairs I think.

Description of car from Mecum: Color Green HIGHLIGHTS: Twin Carburetor 6-cylinder engine 4-speed transmission Power disc brakes Factory air conditioning Factory tachometer and gauges Factory polished wheels AM/FM CD stereo Rust free Original paint and interior Detailed undercarriage Car looks nice. Miles not mentioned. No history mentioned. Nothing special I see. I would say worth 18K. Now the 65 Mustang before that was a STEAL.

PLN at Summit Point. 1970's

Correct, nothing wrong at all with the car at all. Just a RHD Z car and tow vehicle being driven from the left seat. Just need to view with a mirror.