gundee

I have an electric pump on my 1972 connected to the factory preinstalled wiring. It runs with the key on and engine not running. Can't speak for a 260Z. But you can hear the pump if it is running for sure.

I installed a Centerforce clutch kit with my aftermarket light flywheel. Never any problems with mine. Not sure what they are refering to.

Photo from 2005.

This is the earliest I could find of my 72 240. I believe this is from 1978.

Don't know if this was posted yet. $225K. Would only be worth $120K max to me. Just can't go that much. Way to many other cars on my list I would like. http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1907-Nissan-Fairlady Z 432-2.0 Liter Inline DOHC 6-Cylinder

Came from Nissan Motorsports catalog a very long time ago. They are no longer available as far as I know. Try Japan or Australia for a JDM origional. Not likely to find one however. Just replicas.

This is the version I have. I used to have 2 of these but sold one on ebay several years ago unfortunately.

My 2/72 build did the same thing at the exact same spot. In my case the radiator had the core replaced as the origional was plugged up too bad to flush. A while after I got it back this happened so it could have been done poorly at the radiator shop. I took it back and they repaired it and never a problem after that. Over 20 years ago now.

So once tightened are you saying the lock pin is still necessary or not necessary?

I never considered brake and acceleration. I was thinking the up and down movement of the strut. The spindle cannot be solid as I see it. Some rotation is necessary as the arc of motion would require that. Is the lock pin required to only rotate inside the rubber bushing inner sleeves?

I am not sure why that lock pin is installed as well. I always thought it was to prevent the spindle from rotating in the strut housing.

2 more days. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-14/

Use Duct Seal. Best stuff ever. All electricians, plumbers and HVAC use it to seal penetrations. Never hardens. A 1 pound block will last forever. You will use it around the house too. Example here. https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-DS-110N-1-Pound-Compound/dp/B000BO8XD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472663530&sr=8-2&keywords=duct+seal

I do not see where JDMWerks lists Vogtland for the 240Z anymore. Who knows what anyone recieved. I may take a chance if they relist them.

Did you disconnect the tie rod end as well as the T/C rod? I did mine that way. Having the car on jackstands under the frame rails, the jack is now free to lift the strut back in to place. Once the top 3 nuts are installed you can then tighten the shock nut. Then bolt up the tie rod and T/C rod while compressing the strut with the jack under the control arm. Makes the job pretty easy.

I have been thinking about the same thing. I just don't enjoy driving it as much as I did. The main reason is everybody is in a hurry and not looking where they are driving. Somebody is always tailgating me. Its driving me nuts. This is why I only drive the Z less than 1,000 miles a year. More like 500 miles lately. I have had a lot of close calls recently just with my daily driver. At least daily drivers are easy to replace.

You mean like looking at a cell phone perhaps? I would have to have been restrained from hurting somebody.

I was going to say the same thing. I would cross that work off my list and not bother. IMO.

A very nice example from what I see. Ending soon. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-9/

$21,100 Hope you get more though. Good luck to you.

This is my install result according to the diagram. I wanted to do it this way so the tach got the same signal as origional so no issues would develop.