gundee

My 72 tach works good following this diagram. If this helps. Of course I am using the 1.5 ohm coil with ballast resistor.

What I am saying is, yes the 280Z had longer and heavier oem rate springs so they would be different than the 240Z. But the Design was the same for both. Not different.

The photos in post 20 show both springs with 9 coils each. The photos in post 32 show 11 coils front and 9 coils rear. Seems odd. I don't get what they are doing on each set.

Finished up on the Z CarDepot Rear SS Transverse drop links today. Very nice product. https://zcardepot.com/suspension/rear-suspension/rear-transverse-link-brace-stainless-240z-260z-280z.html

The shop I use said not to bring him the seats. He said he has a selection of over 120 different seats that he prefers to use. He has done many Datsun heads.

I am looking for a pair of 240Z front control arms with new or like new rubber bushings. Thanks

Yep. Here we will have an import class. I will be the only 240Z. Sometimes a 280ZX will show up. A few 350 and 370 Z's. A few British sports cars. The rest is all the young Honda crowd with their lowered cars and 5 inch exhaust systems.

I can remember when we tried to twist my 72 booster apart to inspect the problem I had. It would not budge with out destroying the housing. As it turned out I noticed a piece floating around inside that ended up being that rubber reaction disk. We fished that out and replaced it on the end of the push rod once we figured where it went. That fixed it. Got lucky.

I had a new Isky stage III cam and his springs in my E31 I purchased. The machinest said where the @#%&^*! did you get those springs. They are insane spring pressure for a street car. And look at the Isky retainers. I said what. He goes look they are hitting the rocker arms. They must be machined down. No way I said. Sold the cam springs and retainers. Good thing he showed me. Never again Isky for me. The cam grind was good only waaay too much for 8.8 CR engine. Buyers beware, things must fit together. No such thing as bolt on and go.

This is my pump. I love it. Makes noise like the others but when I am driving I can't even hear it. The best part is it bolts directly to the factory pump bracket that came on my Z. I measure 3.5 psi right at the Carbs. Brand and Specs: FACET Fuel Pumps Maximum fuel delivery 36 gallons per hour. Maximum pressure 4 to 5 psi. Typical flow 23 gallons per hour at 2 psi. 1/8 NPT female ports. Negative ground (12v) only. This pump is also sold under Kohler part number 247076. Military NSN number 2910-00-915-4818. For the higher fuel volume requirements of larger engines (above about 150 horsepower), the high-performance Facet Cylindrical pumps can deliver. This pump is appropriate for engines in the range of 200-250 hp. Pumps can also be combined in series or parallel to achieve any required pressure or flow. Facet fuel pumps have low power requirements (about 1 amp at 12 volts) and operate without troublesome seals or diaphragms. Built-in pressure relief means no flooding after shutting down a hot engine. This pump has no anti-siphon valve, so fuel can be drawn through when the pump is off. It also has no internal one-way valve, so fuel can flow backwards through the pump when off (draining back to the tank). An internal 74 micron filter is already installed. Facet pump number 476087 (E). This pump can also replace Facet pump number 476410 (E), 478360 (E), 480516 (E)*, and 480591 (E)*. Note: The Facet "Interruptor" style pumps now feature reliable solid-state technology instead of points!

Nice. I just had the chance to buy 3 complete L28 plus 1 L26 for $50 each, but I passed as I have no place to put them.

On 6/29 I ordered 2 heater hoses and 2 firewall grommets from Alejandro. I did recieve a discount on the hoses but none on the expensive grommets. Does MSA discount apply to just some but not all items? I may have to call again I guess.

I sure do not see that on my profile. What a I not seeing?

I think all the origional T/C rods are past their service life. They were flimsy to start out with. If you put them on a flat surface and roll them many are bent. I took mine off and into the dumpster. I went aftermarket. I will suffer the ride aspect. But no longer will ever put that old fatigued steel on my car for such a critical item.

Advanced the cam gear to position 2. It does run better. The first thing I noticed was that the engine fired before i could even take my hand off the key!

I am not looking forward to the job either with no lift. I would like to get one of these portable lifts for the garage. I took the photo of this one Sunday at the track.

I am going to have to do the same project one of these days. I have an oil leak where the gearbox mates to the block. It is either the rear engine seal or the front transmission seal. Both are origional. Clutch kit is over 20 years old. Just going to replace both seals and a new clutch kit as long as its apart. A 2017 project for me. No time this year. Doing too many other things on the Z this year. As well as driving it.

What kind of car are you talking about. Do we know?

Hagerty did a nice write up with photos here. https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/Articles/2016/07/05/Z-Car-Garage?utm_source=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=Hagerty Weekly News 7-6-2016

I believe I purchased this one from MSA a very long time ago. Very bored with it now. I need a new look. I think I may modify this one.

Purchased my 72 Z in 1976. 40 years ago. Wow, I can't believe it.

Photo stop during road test.