gundee

I agree. A professional restorer with a frame rack would have a hard time putting that chassis back together. Parts, parts, parts. Keep for spares. That would have to be 1969 chassis no. 00001 to even attempt. IMO.

I can attest to linkage bind on my Mikuni's as well. Worked all Summer adjusting linkage, changing a 280Z firewall link rod, different lengths of individual carb link rods. All trying to free up bind and using better linkage mechanical advantage. I finally got it to work and return to idle position good enough to remove the added return spring that just created more pedal effort.

If you or anyone needs a camshaft, I have the 'C' Datsun camshaft with all the matching rocker arms marked. I have new lash pads to go with them too which you should use. The existing lash pads should be removed as they are worn in with the existing rocker arms. I just pulled this set up out of my own engine. When I installed this cam I unbolted the passenger side motor mount. Jacked the engine enough. Slid the old out and the new in easily clearing the radiator.

Its just that the site you refer to showed how classy a lot of the members are when another member went to the dark side. Kept the money from all who purchased items he had advertised and never shipped. Lots of excuses offered. Most members thought it was funny as heck that some got ripped off. The Owner of that site is really spineless and pathetic IMO.

If you have them use them. Weber of Spain is critical of quality of some of their jets. If you find that, use the Weber jets. If I were to buy new I would choose OER carbs over Weber myself.

Never heard of the program. But I really don't watch TV any more except football and sometimes F1. Otherwise nothing ever gets done. Time spent watching I will never get back I guess.

Have you verified the stamp on your block to see if you even have a L24?

nomukin, My 1975 L28 block uses the same timing indicator you purchased. I may have the early type crank pulley on mine as I have the passenger side timing indicator and lines up perfect to my pulley. You would just need the other crank pulley like mine. Not so easy given your location I know.

Maybe where you are. High tomorrow here is 45 degrees and 48 degrees on Saturday. I'm done for the year anyway. Was at a track event last week and now its smoking antifreeze so head is coming off. A fresh rebuilt head will be going on it this Spring. Snow starts in about one more month. I need a heated garage.

Hmmm. I don't recognize that crankshaft pulley at all.

This is a 280Z issue with intakes. No amount of chemicals will touch the inside. This is from years of EGR entering the intake. The best thing you can do is as suggested have the inside media blasted. Then you want to hone out the runners smooth. Hard to find a good 280Z intake now days. They are all plugged up.

Lots of unknowns there. I know of two cases where the person drove it till it quit running. After it cooled off and added water there was not enough ring compression left for it to even start. The yards around me have so many engines they don't even have the room to put any more inside. The engines outlive the cars now. Exchanging for a nice low mileage one would be a good idea I think. Machine shop costs and parts really add up fast when repairing. Tough call.

" American Custom 071 cam (pretty big cam, I don't have the spec in front of me right now.)" I never heard of that Cam Company before.

What does it look like the rest of the note says on the tape. He may not want the distributor shaft gear to move out of phase.

Larry is quite the guy. He did some work on a head I bought out of Georgia. He lives out in the boonies and has no internet service. In fact he does not even own a computer. Very old school. His memory does not seem to be as good as it was. And it will take a while for him to get back to you. Very good machinist but not good at the business end of things. All word of mouth to even know about him.

I give my number with my order and still get charged full price anyway.

What shock is TTT using in their kits now? Still Koni?

I am in with the 15 X 7 wheel size group for stock bodywork. I use 205/60-15. The 205/50 series just did not look right to me. Too much wheel gap and smaller than stock overall diameter.

Same here. Just using the cast iron exhaust manifold. No drone at all and no resonator installed. Maybe its the cast iron manifold that helps eliminate the drone. I ported my stock cast manifold to match my N42 head as well. Very pleased overall.

I put the oval stainless Magnaflow on mine last year. Tight fit but I really like the sound. No pre muffler needed. I need to do some work to get it tucked up inside more.

From Pertronix Instructions: "The Ignitor ignition can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 1.5 ohms of primary resistance on eight cylinder engines and 3.0 ohms on four and six cylinder engines. For optimum performance purchase and install the recommendedFlamethrower high performance coil." When it says 3 ohm coil for 6 cylinder, that is if you bypass the ballast resistor.If you keep your resistor like I did so my tachometer would work, then youuse the 1.5 ohm Flamethrower coil. The MSD Blaster coil is less than 1 ohm and will not work.

I recently purchased a set of NGK for my Z. The caps on these were one piece. No threads to loosen.

I am curious. I see you run no vacuum advance. Does Rebello really recommend that for the street?

I don't think he is a member here. He just started running that car this year. He used to drive a Porsche 911. This car belonged to a friend of his he raced against. The car itself has been racing for quite awhile now. I expect he now owns it. I would have been there this weekend to watch had I not been in St Louis.

Does not look quite right to me. Leave crank where its at and pull the distributor. Check this for proper alignment phasing.