gundee

I did this a long time ago, but I found, I think it was the rear studs were longer than the fronts. I purchased longer studs from Nissan Motorsports for the rear. I then put the longer rear studs in the front hubs. That way I had the same thread pitch all around.

Long story short. Yesterday the right rear brake line snapped off on me while disconnecting it. I will have to replace it and it goes all the way to the junction block in the center of car. I likely will have to drop the differential to get at it. I will replace the other side as well as long as I am that far. After all, they have only been on there for 43 years. Ha. I was going to drive it to a large car show on the 16th but that may be unlikely now. Don't have a lot of time available to work on it. Got to order the new lines now.

I think you are near Whitehead Performance. They have a lot of Z parts or can link you up with one.

I have one that came off a 1972. Only fits 72 and later Z's with a R180. Anyone can have it for free. Just cost of shipping. Taking up room in my garage.

I have those same exact shocks in mine. They are well over 20 years old. I seem to remember being told that model was not rebuildable. You would have to call Koni direct to confirm. The car rides so bad now I am just going to replace them. Not sure with what yet.

Yes I am using the 1.5 ohm ballast resistor, with the 1.5 ohm coil. Unless the engine has modifications the stock coil probably works as good. I was strongly advised not to use the MSD Blaster coil. As it only has .7 ohms resistance. Way less than what Pertronix wants you to use. The person I know that builds ignition systems for vintage racers was the person that told me not to use the MSD coil. I use this diagram as it has been proven to work well. Its not drawn as I would like it but it is correct.

Yes. From the photos you provided, it looks much better than what I had in my mind. Sorry I don't have any FI parts but there seems to be plenty offered here. The pick and pull that I go to currently has only 3 280ZX's. No 280Z's.

That sounds totally correct. I tried the long nose in my 5 speed and had one heck of a time getting it into 5th gear. Could not fully engage it and would pop right back out. The short one works perfect.

This is the pair I have. For lack of a better description, I coined them the long and short nose.

I will write a note to photo the pair I have.

Then you have these all with 3 different bends. You can see some have the longer bottom. The parts manuals don't refer to these as different as far as I know.

Yes the longer bottom end. I too am not clear which Z had the long nose.

I have both a short nose and a long nose shifter for 72 - 78 Z. I can sell you either one. Most are not aware of these two shifters. Let me know which you prefer.

I completed the Pertronix igniter points replacement and Pertronix 40,000 volt coil modification. Runs fantastic and smooth. The tach even works normally. Very happy.

What is the compression readings? Plugs look typical for a motor that could have 250000 miles on it. I am sure miles is unknown as usual . May have never been apart. That is how strong they are. But at some point.....

Strictly for the benefit for those that like 280ZX. I would not even bother looking at a 280ZX myself. To each his own but they do nothing for me.

Looks legit to me. Would take more than that to restore one. http://www.legendarymotorcar.com/site2/listing/1982-datsun-280zx-for-sale/?utm_source=Email_marketing&utm_campaign=Wednesday_July_22_2015_-_1_2015-07-22_1982_Datsun&campaigner=1&utm_medium=HTMLEmail

Speaking of Nashville. If anyone ever gets to Nashville, take in the Lane Auto Museum. They have a cut away 280Z engine on display. Very neat. I don't know if they own it or it is on loan. Some of the cars there are on loan from their owners.

I had that same header over 20 years ago. The quality looks better now than the one I had. Mine was chrome. I see now they have the better polished exhaust coating. The biggest issue I had was where the slip fit head pipe connected to the header with exhaust clamps. It always leaked there. Never could get a good seal. Also I had to grind some areas on my Mikuni manifold to clear the header while attaching the intake. It was not real noticeable though. Mine connected to a 2-1/2 in exhaust.

Those CRX's are great little cars. I have a friend that bought a 84 CRX new and still has it. Always driven in Summer only and kept in a heated garage in Winter. Still has the original paint that looks like new. Has Mikuni side drafts on it. He is finally giving it an engine rebuild now. Someone is going to get a good one when he sells it.

If it were mine and it had not been done, next I would remove the rocker arms and install all new lash pads. I have done this before too with head on car. Then re-adjust valves. I hate adjusting hot. Gave that up 20 years ago. Cold only for me.

I wanted to stay with chrome, but when I got the price to re chrome them, I painted them dark bronze to match my wheels instead. Spent that bumper money for other needed items for the Z.

The 1969 TR6 I owned while in the UK was URW778G. Never really knew what the number represented. Apparently random as you suggest.

Got the Pertronix conversion wired in and fired it up. They are correct. It did change the timing and had to reset. Had to re-adjust carbs too. Really sounds good. Road test later after I finish a couple other minor things on it.

Finished restoring the Mikuni manifold. Should be back on the car tomorrow. Then the carbs back on soon to drive by this weekend.