gundee

Check the continuity of this ground wire also.

Yes, there is a Company that does powder and ceramic coating about 20 miles from me. After getting it back and looking it over, I thought why didn't I grind off all the casting edges if going this far? It would not have taken too long. Too late now.

I just had mine ceramic coated. Good to 1300 degree F. No high temp paints lasted long for me.

Look at coilovers for other makes. $1,950 is not bad for direct bolt on.

As a follow up, I would get the ZX gearbox installed first if that is what you want to use. As it does use a different shifter, you want to determine the overall length you can get away with so you don't smash your hand into the dash when using first gear.

This guy in Canada rebuilds them. I don't know how far he is from you. Here is his email: : moesmail@shaw.ca You can ask if he can help you.

Take your ZX shifter to some one to stick in lathe chuck. Have them turn it down at the spot you want to size 10mm. Cut off old top piece and thread 10mm. Screw on extender. Down the road. PS. The Honda and most of the generic shift knobs on Ebay are 10mm and have the Datsun shift pattern on them if you want a pattern type knob.

I guess I would drop the tank and cut out the rectangle as shown with the supply and return line. Repair as necessary. Then have someone braze the piece back in. That issue if that is it is now solved. My Dremel tool with cutting wheel would take 3 minutes.

Not one bit. But it helps to keep the bumper from rotting out on that side. I found my exhaust fume leak but I will have to find an exhaust leak thread to post what I found. No more fumes at all.

That is absolutly correct. You can put 20 inch wheels on a 240Z if you want to.

New set of 15X7 Konig wheels. 205/60-15 tires. Sold the old 14 in Minilites to a driver of a MGB vintage racer.

I recently finished refreshing the front suspension on my 72. I put on new tie rod ends, new ball joints, poly bushings and bumpsteer spacers. Mine has been lowered so i decided to put the spacers in. I took it for a drive and do not like the feel at all. I was surprised. The suspension feels like it is binding.

What are you using for the carb insulators between manifold and carb? I cannot tell for sure by the photo. Are you by chance using the o-ring type insulator?

I still have a FAR Performance catalog from the 1970's. Remember watching both drivers at Road Atlanta too. Fun times.

Correct. Set at 3.5 max. You are flooding at anything more. THEN start working on setting up the carbs correctly. Did I miss the part where you gave the venturi size and jet sizes?

Don't say that. I have one on the way.

Your fuel pressure doesn't bother me too much if you have good volume output. No way to test that though. Electric one, yes.

If you are still having problems and have not done this, I would next pull the distributer. On the bench remove the breaker plate that the points attach to. You now have access to the weights and springs. See if you have any broken parts floating around in there. Such as a broken spring. Make sure the weights are not dry and move freeely. Reassemble. Then you can eliminate another item.

FYI. I trigger mine with points using this MSD diagram. No ballast. Now that I have the car out of winter storage I will be changing over to a magnetic trigger and eliminate the points all together.

You don't by chance have one of these 73, 74 rear fuel pumps on your 72 like I do.

Call Bruce at Z Therapy. He should have some good ones that work well.

Did you notice if the tach is very eratic as well when this happens? If so. Ignition for sure from my experience.

I am sure Jim Fredricks knows who the new owner is since he was there. May even be heading out of the US as far as we know. Extremely nice but not restored by any means. Even if I had the cash, I have no interest in that car. My 72 HlS30 is in better condition. I do not collect. I like to drive. Just my preference.

This is in fact common. I have worked with British and Datsun SU's just about my whole life. Over time floats will slowly absorb fuel making them heavy. They begin to not fully shut off the needle valves. This makes tuning a SU correctly impossible. Once they become too heavy they just sink and do not shut the valve off at all. Nobody ever checks their floats. You can feel how heavy they are by removing them.

Having the red interior, I used the SEMA Napa red dye to restore the faded origionals on the rear towers. Excellent match. I don't think it could be any closer. Transmission tunnel too.