gundee

That is the mug shot of Tokyo Rose after her arrest in WWII. Yes, I have a sick sense of humor.

I have a 1987 dealer price list with every Datsun part number. If the part number is on the item I can look up what it sold for then.

Got this from a Nissan dealer a while back. Intended to put in my 240 but is a little different shape and has slots instead of snaps. The rubber heel pad has a chip out of it where it sat folded up. $15 plus Ship.

They are talking about a 280Z.

I had my wipers arms off recently. When I went to put them back on the same way I noticed they were marked L&R. I found out I had them on backwards for years. Doh! :surprised

Jason, Yes, the turn signals would still work. That is because the t/s switch has two power inputs. One comes from the t/s flasher and the other comes from the stop light switch. In the neutral position the contacts that go to the brake lights are closed. Lets say you flip on the left turn signal. The contact for the left brake light opens and the contact for the left t/s closes.

Jason, Here's the deal. I own a 72 myself. The way the brake circuit works is that the power goes from the brake light switch to the Turn signal switch. From there it goes to the L & R brake lights. The reason for this is that the brake lights and the turn signal circuits use the same wires and the same bulbs. The turn signal switch therefore determines if it will take the 12v from the T/S flasher or the brake switch. You really want the turn signal switch. If it is in fact bad. I believe the reason the person told you combination switch ( we refer to it also as the headlight switch) is because it is confusing on the wire diagram. The wire diagram for the 240 labels the turn signal sw. and the light switch together as "combination switch". When in fact they are seperate switches. Hope I did not confuse you further.

I would say it is just as probable if not more probable the lower ball joint has some wear. They probably are the origional ball joints. My 72 still has the origionals and the LF has a small amount of play, the RF is still perfect.

The brake light circuit and the hazard circuit use the same fuse. If the hazards work then that fuse is good. You did not say how you tested the brake switch. You used an ohm meter I assume? The other way to test it is to pull both wires off brake switch and take a short piece of wire and jumper those two wires together. If the brake lights go on then you have a bad brake sw.

It appears to me the car has been lowered. Read not factory reconditioned. IMO.

After reading that restoration checklist. :stupid: Was whoever thought up that program drunk? What made them think that you could sell a 240Z restored to that checklist for less than $80 thousand? And that is just to maybe break even. Cost of parts + cost of car + Labor (California shop labor rates for that matter!) = Does not add up!! Doh. For example: 750 hours x $100/hr (CA shop rate) = $75,000 just in Labor! I don't get it.

Wires LW, LY, L, B all go back to the wiper switch. No relays involved. You would have to make a switching device to simulate the wiper sw. As that is not practicle the best is to find or borrow another switch to hook the wires to and do your test.

Flow valve hook up.