gundee

Hey Carl. I was reading a major earthquake is expected in California anytime. That should weed out some people for you.

The long lost 1st Cobra Daytona Coup was found in California sitting in a garage for over 30 years. After the court battles were over as to ownership the car was eventually sold for reported $3 million as is. And you think your Z is rough.

My scanner software does all of that photo editing. I thought it was just a standard deal with all of them.

Decided it was time to restore the finish of my badly weathered license light cover. After removing the cover you will notice the color is in the plastic casting itself. I first wet sanded with 1000 grit then wet sanded with 1500 grit. I finished off with 3M rubbing compound p/n 03900. It comes in a 8oz. bottle. It now looks like new! Picture attached but camera is a cheap one so could be better.

Thats the way to look at it Dave. No trailer queens! Drive it and drive it lots. Don't save the car for the next owner like a lot of people do. To hell with the next owner!

If you go to Monterey Historics this weekend get some pics. Cars, girls, John Morton, girls, Pete Brock, girls, displays, girls, etc. I was at last weekends Trans-Am race. Excellent race Tommy Kendall started 13th and finished 1st. I will post a few pics when I get them back.

I had an 810 4 door and have never seen a 810 2 door. Never knew they made them. Mine was same color. There can't be many of those 2 doors left on the road. Thats a keeper.

Well my Ford doesn't have wings so I don't know where the FAA comes in. I don't want to get into Teresa Hines -Kerry space cadet stuff. Suffice it to say it is a 96 car. No one that works there now was there then. Their focus is on the new ones so you have to take more upon yourself. And sites like I mentioned help alot.

FYI. You can research any vehicles recalls and factory service bulletins at this website. For example the dealership did not know what the problem with my Ford was. I found a service bulletin on that problem at this site. What a bunch of idiots at that dealership! www.recalls.gov

Tore out all the old carpet padding today. Does that stuff ever stink after 32 years. It smells like an old basement. I need to find something modern to use that does not absorb moisture. Any ideas?

Which site is Brians? I would like to read that. Sometimes I have to draw it out on a piece of paper before I get it. Thats interesting. Thanks.

Andrew You will have to go back to a 240 tach. The 280 tach is not interchangable. They work differenty and are wired differently. The 240 connects to coil + and the 280 connects to coil -.

You are correct Wayne, the master/cyl takes care of any residual pressure needed. All the 240's I have seen incl. my 72 have the pressure differential warning switch that is mounted down by the frame rail. It is just a dual action hydraulic actuated switch that turns the dash brake light on in the event the front or rear has a pressure loss. It has nothing to do with proportioning.

Forget that connector with violet and green wires. You will not use those on your set up. That is for crank trigger set ups only. Did you get the 8910 tach adapter with your setup? You will need that to get the tach to work and the FI system as well. Use the wire diagram with the kit that says points/amplifier style ignition.

Have to disagree here. The subject valve in the rear of the Z is in fact a proportioning valve. This is clearly spelled out and in diagram as well in the FSM. The Z does not have a seperate residual pressure valve. It is not required in this case because the rear drums are the self-adjusting type on the Zcar.

It took me a while but I see the top has been chopped. It really does look like a Corvette that way. I would say they were trying to make it look like a Vette for whatever reason.

I have tripple Mikuni's with an inline Holley fuel pressure regulator. It has a tap for a fuel pressure guage that I recently got around to installing. These carbs prefer approx. 3-1/2 psi. My guage was showing 2 psi. I opened the regulator up further and further and still could get only 2psi max. Well the fuel pump is 15 years old but in terms of mileage it has maybe 20K miles on it at the most. I decided to replace it with a new one thinking that could be the problem. After I am done replacing, I start car and see what I have now for psi. Its still reading 2 psi! It finally just struck me sitting here that I have the fuel return line hooked up. That has to be it. I am wondering now if the SU's had a restricter in the return. I sold my SU set up a long time ago so I cannot look. What do you guys think?

JetDoc I was reading your earlier post and you said your rod length was right on. I am sure it probably was because they do not move out of adj. by themselves. Never the less, the telltale sign of the a booster reaction disc problem is that you lose your pedal when the engine is running. Go to Search and type in "reaction disc". You will find what you need to do. It has happened to a lot of us.

You are correct on the wires. The load terminal always will go to the item being powered. In this case the fuel pump.