gundee

I can tell you that back in the day this was a common issue. The slotted mags sold back then had a pretty good negative offset. This made shimmy a real problem on 240Z's. Owners spent a lot of time and money to fix. Back then it was a combination of bad wheels, bad offset and poor tire quality I firmly believe. Best to go to zero offset or plus offset on a Z car.

I can attest that on my 1978 5 speed transmission you have to have the correct shifter or 5th is a no go. I chased my tail trying to find out my issue. I was using my 4 speed shifter. There is a difference between the two. Completely solve the issue.

You had a aftermarket collar being the issue? News to me. Never saw a aftermarket collar. Who makes that?

Mine is the early style. No ribs on the front side. I still like it after all these years. I do believe one hole was not covered after install, but was taken care of when I got it repainted.

Your gallery shows on my desktop.

My February 72 built 240Z has one. I purchased my car used from a Datsun dealer. It was a trade in from the original owner. I doubt the dealer or the original owner added it. I would say it came from the factory like that.

Also do check on slave cylinder rod movement. I have seen hydraulic failure before with a new stronger pressure plate. Usually with very old master and slave cylinders. One or both sometimes. They cannot hold pressure properly.

If the pressure plate is the same height as the old, then the existing collar would be correct as I see it. The B collar is needed for the same pressure plate for the later transmission because the B transmission bellhousing measures at a different depth.

Here is another version of same collars I had in my files.

He caught me shooting a photo of him at Road Atlanta. Boy did I get a dirty look. Another person I know said he got the finger doing the same.

OK, I'll bite. Where is the Parkinson 280Z car then if this is not it? Sold or still in Randy's posession?

This Z car RPM calculator is really good. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1KOX4bwXzLoidUFdJKkwnIQwq1AMafdbv-LmCBuyJdcg/edit?authkey=CPTj89IN&hl=en&authkey=CPTj89IN&hl=en&authkey=CPTj89IN#gid=0

https://drivetribe.com/p/brand-new-bmws-left-abandoned-in-QItxrIRETDOpVCKlJz__lA?fbclid=IwAR1X2cevsGiLmpgMRCrdB30ZEOuLWc4GyFdwcXEKPRkxuH0UhbtEzOfnYb8&iid=dXQo5F-DRFa-ItbHRB8j7Q&utm_campaign=main+&utm_medium=fb&utm_source=organic

You should not need any mallet. It should easily move forward by hand and not tight. If not, you have to find the problem. Head warped? Towers not torqued properly?

I am on my second Covercraft. Fitted for a 240Z. The first one I got was from MSA and made by Covercraft. Don't know what they sell now.

The FSM drawing is correct. And the Captain's car is correct. Yours is not correct. Ball joint bolts to top.

Great. Like I said earlier, your description sounded definitely fuel. Ignition issue is a totally different sound.

Did you ever change the filter inside your fuel pump? Most are not aware there is one in there. Assuming you run the factory 260 pump.

From your description, almost 100% certain its running out of fuel. I had the exact same symptom you describe.

This is a very informational read. Wayne's World: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/index.html

Check your crank pulley has not slipped first. Also with a 8mm wrench you can loosen the bolt under the dist and adjust to get more adjustment when you have run out of range. I run 10 degrees max at idle myself.

That is what I thought. And you replaced that middle one with one of the others. After doing that you have the same issue. Then I go back to my original statement. I deduce that it is then Nothing to Do With the Carb At All. Need to look elsewhere.

Then one carb is all good and 2 are sticking? Just to clarify.

Quote: " I swapped carb position and problem stays in middle carb. " I must be missing something. If a good carb does the same thing in the center position, then it can't be the carb or the linkage Also, If the linkage is disconnected as shown then the linkage is out of the equation completely. So its been good all the while you had it and then turned to crap after carb rebuild?

Now that it is back together, I was warming up the engine to see if any tune adjustments were needed. After I got out the timing light and a few tools I figure that should be warm enough. I start to check carb balance and I say to myself, doesn't seem hot enough yet. Why is it taking so long? I look inside and the temp gauge reads 1/2 so Its good. As it turns out the ceramic coated headers really do contain a lot of the heat. Very noticeable compared to the old cast iron set up. Pleased to know that.