gundee

Super. Thanks zKars. Shows 2". I have just around 1" out so I am good. I had it all back together and did not measure it, so that saves me from pulling one end off again. I owe you one. I ended up with a lot of toe in by lengthening the lower control arms so I needed to crank more toe out to bring it back.

No, talking about the other end where tie rod screws on to.

Anyone know offhand how long the threaded portion of the inner tie rod is on a 240Z? Added camber with new lower control arms and need to adjust toe out quite a bit more. Want to make sure I do not go too far for safety reasons of course. Thanks.

Replaced springs with Eibach using the same shocks. Front is now back to normal. Vogtland still says not their spring problem as theirs never go bad. What a joke.

Its all back together now. Nice and tight and well sealed. I was making it more difficult than it was. Ended up to just grinding 1/2 of the washer down. That was enough to get them to sit good enough. Also I found that 4 longer studs needed a couple extra washers, The nuts were tight and washers looked good but closer inspection showed the nuts had bottomed out to the unthreaded portion of the stud. Its really easy to overlook a problem like this as you can't see a thing doing those bottom manifold studs. Even with a mirror. I think I had this issue even before I put the headers on. This whole thing started because I could not get the carbs to respond to adjustments. Real bad air leak from intake after the new header install was the culprit. These carbs have never responded this well to changes. Very happy with it now.

You should have the old "monkey motion" gearbox in yours. Get the delrin or poly replacement bushing if they are still around. Otherwise put a new rubber one back in. You have to remove the console but is real easy.

Just listed. $35,900. Anyone here owned it before? https://throttlestop.com/detail/1971-datsun-z-series-240z

From my notes, D612-52 is 1970 -72 manual trans and D611-54 is 1973 manual trans. Good question on that one. I am guessing a 70-72 manual trans, dist.

View Advert Need early 4 speed bell housing from 70-71 Does anyone have a early L series (3 section gearbox) bell housing they are willing to ship to Finland? It is needed there so they can use the roadster 5 speed on a L series. Other 5 speeds are not an option for the series they run there. If you are willing, I will put you in contact with them. Advertiser gundee Date 07/25/2019 Price $1.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z - 510  

Looking again this afternoon, the washers are cocked as far as they will go and still not enough to fully clamp. Tack welding a small flat piece on the side of the washer would do it. I just need about another 1/8" or so.

Mine is enough of a mismatch that something is needed. I am getting some air leaks from the intake manifold that needs to be corrected. Going to figure out a way to add something to 1/2 of that washer to fill the gap. I am going to look at it again today.

It turns out my headers and intake manifold are not the same thickness. That presents a clamping issue using the thick washers. I was wondering if somebody has some of those thick washers modified so that just half of the washer is raised. Otherwise I will just have to grind a set up to fit. Any good tips from others that have run into this mismatch? Don't have a lathe or a welder so just looking for a easy way to get these manifolds clamped correctly so no leaks. Thanks

I think I would just use my Pertronix pick up to trigger a CD box such as a MSD or Crane. I think you have the compression to justify the need for a CD ignition.

For those that have not used one, you can get a 8mm stud remover socket. Just put on the end of you extension. They work great. Another good investment I made.

The Yoes is very nice and well built. The last one you will ever need to buy. I do have a nice straight oiler that is just a little loose on one pipe. I would re-solder or braze. $35 shipped to you or anyone here who wants it.

The lower control arm pivots at the inner crossmember bolt and the ball joint at the outside. I told Jeff that the ball joint appears to be jammed. Now looking again I think I may have spotted the issue there. Have to run out to where I keep my Z and verify.

Last year I installed Vogtland springs and KYB shocks. This spring I took it out for a run and noticed it seemed to be riding very rough in the front. When I got back I noticed the front end is now very low. Hmmm, took a look see and the front springs look to be almost fully compressed. Rears are still fine. I see nothing wrong so I sent the photos to Vogtland. They said the shocks could have failed. Even if they did, in my mind shocks do not carry much if any weight. The springs support a car. Going to start to pull one side apart today.

Header install is now complete. Hard to see them now. Sounds great though. Cannot test drive yet because I also have developed a front suspension problem. Just the opposite of the other thread oddly enough. New parts as well. I will post up to get your alls opinion.

710 oil cap?

If the shock was wrong it would not fit in the front housing. Not the issue. I sent you a PM. Try that.

Intake is now on. Those bottom nuts were a sob to get a socket or wrench on to tighten. Did you notice the billet steering rack clamps?

Yes. MSA.

Finally getting rid of the stock exhaust manifold. This header is going to mate to the existing 2-1/2" exhaust pipes. Going very well so far.

I purchased one of his a couple years ago. Works excellent and well built. Good peace of mind.

I do have a straight one, not warped like some. Flushed it with brake clean and holes flow well. The only thing is I can feel a slight twist movement in the bar so I would solder or epoxy it.