Pennyman

New listing. Also, please feel free to PM me if you want any of the parts: Datsun 240z and 280z parts Various Datsun 240z and 280z parts for sale. I prefer not to ship. Location is Santa Cruz/San Jose area. Prices are firm but not set in stone. 14x7 "slotted mag" aluminum wheels - $100 1975-76 front and rear bumpers - $30 each 1975-76 bumper ends (full set) - $10 each corner 1976 4-speed transmission (bearings and seals have ~10k miles) - $100 [sOLD] Datsun Z aluminum valve cover (should polish up nicely) - $30 240z front turn signals with harnesses (L and R sides) - $75 for both [sOLD] 3.54 ratio R200 differential - $50 280z front and rear strut tubes/spindles (perfect for coilover project) - $100 for the set of 4 [sOLD] 240z-early 280z inner hatch trim - $10 240z rear upper strut isolators - $5 per side 240z front bumper over-rider - $30 Bosch L-Jetronic mass airflow meter - $40

Hey all, Got a few parts I'm trying to get rid of. Prices are firm but not set in stone. PM me or contact through ad, no problem. Thanks for looking. Datsun 240z and 280z parts Joey

I think I am getting closer to my culprit. I didn't buy the ignition module yet, but while the car was idling, I bumped the sensor wires that are in the thermostat housing. The car faltered and then died, and wouldn't restart because it flooded. I smelled fuel. After cleaning all the spark plugs and spraying some starter fluid in there, it fired up. I decided to jiggle the wire that I believe goes to the ignition module to switch between advanced and retarded timing based on coolant temperature. Using a ohmmeter, I found that jiggling the wire varied the resistance between 1900ohms, down to 300ohms, and occasionally open (no connection). If this is a thermistor, it should read lower resistance when hot, so the car may be being fooled into thinking the engine is cold, and dumping more fuel in. When the circuit is open, I have no idea what the Ignition module is doing, and is probably confused so it doesn't send anything to the coil. I guess I'll keep playing with it in the meantime.

It does burn oil, quite a bit it seems. I would say a quart or so every 1.5-2 weeks (rotary style). Other than this sputtering it runs really strong. I'm going to buy a new ignition module (the little rectangular box next to the fuse box) and see if that helps. Little buggers are expensive though...

Hmm, an update after my drive to work this morning. While warming up, the idle was ok, initial smoky startup. As it was warming up, it would hesitate, and a couple of times it actually died. I would simply turn the key and it would start right up again. It did this a total of 3 times this morning. As you can imagine I was reluctant to drive it to work. Once warm, it seemed to run better. After it was fully warmed up, I gave it a nice healthy rev, and drove to work, no problems. I'm starting to think the valve seals are toast.

Hey everyone! 1976 280Z, 192XXX mi. (stolen and then recovered...different story haha) I really didn't want to have to post this, but my beloved Z has been acting strange. While driving, the car will sputter, but won't die. Like it'll hesitate and then come back to live violently, shocking the drivetrain and terrifying any passengers in the car. On the freeway in 5th it's less pronounced because of the gearing, it'll feel like the car is trying to turn off momentarily. So it'll feel smooth and then a small hicup with a loss in power. When the hicup's are more severe I can smell fuel, so it makes me think it's electrical or the plugs getting fouled by oil. Honestly, I thought it was bad valve guides and burning oil (like I need the top end rebuilt) but new oil hasn't changed it, in fact has seemed to make it worse. I'm reluctant to say it's the ignition module, but I wouldn't put it past it. I doubt it's the ignition switch itself. Cap, rotor, spark plugs are new. Oil change 3 days ago. Distributor was replaced about 6 years ago, unknown brand The car does this seemingly randomly, not related to engine temperature or speed (though it seems more often on the freeway when revs aren't changing much) Any next-steps or checks I could do would be extremely helpful. Thanks guys

Hey dudes. Help me. My blue 1976 Datsun 280z was stolen last night from the corner of San Fernando and 12th st. in San Jose. It was there at midnight when I came back from the school shop (working on FSAE) and this morning it was gone. If you guys see this car, let me know. plate# 4PVR522 can't remember the vin off the top of my head mods: GC coils, tokico illuminas, MSA sways, 83 5spd and rear end, and some other random stuff.

Well, thanks to forum downtime I decided to check out the problem myself. Pulled the diff, it was dry as a bone inside. Filled her back up with Castrol 80W140, no more howl.

Hey everyone. Just did a 5speed and diff swap from a junked 83 zx into my 76 z. The differential makes this howling, grinding noise as I decelerate, or when coasting down a hill. When I get on the gas again, the noise goes away. The noise gets considerably louder as the car gets slower, but if I simply go slow, the noise isn't even there at all. There is also no noise as accelerate. At first I thought it might be the driveshaft rubbing the heatshield, but then I got under the car and the differential was very hot after a only a 10 minute drive (by hot I mean, I could only hold my fingers on the diff case for a couple seconds). My first thought is that the oil level is quite low. Not sure what else could be going on.

Got a '76 here. I won't have anything to do with that ridiculous space saving spare or fiberboard rear deck that came on the '77. Metal deck and full size spare for me please!!

I sure hope you've got eliminators for that rear suspension's Super Hicas 4 wheel steering system...

Whoops double post

I just finished this swap. It totally rocks. Fabbed my own front brackets and bent up the rear ones to get it all to fit nicely. Car accelerates, brakes, steers and handles noticeably better now that it's 90 pounds off the extreme front and rear. To each there own. The boat anchors have multiple advantages, but I like this.

This brings back memories. I found several wire nuts after I bought my car. Both in the engine bay and in the cabin. I had to rewire the turn signals, the stereo, hazards, semi auto antenna, among other things. A lot of it was due to corroded connectors under a leaky heater core. Yummy. Goodluck. I'm sure it's easier on a 240z compared to a 280z.