Pennyman

Hi, i have a 76 280z that i just had smogged a few monthes ago, and i think it might be the last time i smog it. you have to smog your car every 2 years in CA and by the time i have to smog it again in 06, the car will be 30 years old, and hopefully smog exempt. my question is whether its posible to get rid of some of the smog stuff on the engine to make the compartment look better and maybe gain a little HP in the process. I've seen some 280zx engines in 240s that have had smog stuff taken off, and they work fine, and look great. im just wondering what you guys think of all this....anyway, thanx as always!! Joey

Check out my site, I developed a way to get a Corbeau Forza seat attatched to the stock frame rails, and maybe it will work for your seat as well. I found that the manufactured bracket sets the seat much too high, but perhaps I installed it wrong. Oh well. In any case, I love the way it is now, very sturdy and strong, and I wouldn't have it any other way. http://home.pacbell.net/mjpenni/joey/

I find that if you don't have much money, and your floorpans are turning to powder under your feet, then its much safer to spend a little on some sheet metal and buy yourself some time while you save, rather than keep saving up and have your floor fall out from underneath you. Rusty, hole-pocked metal is much weaker than a new piece that has been riveted in. Not everyone has acces to a welder. We aren't talking about the frame rails mind you, just the pans where your feet rest. This is usually where water and ultimately rust can collect, and the sheet metal here is much thinner then on the framerails and rocker pannels. I should post some pics of the floorpans I fixed.....

I was wondering what the advantages of keeping the stock 280z 4 speed manual, over the 5 speed are, if any. Basically it's just to convince myself into keeping the 4 speed (and saving my money), but I want you to give me your honest opinion. Thanks as always. Joey Penniman

I see that the floor pan rust has not yet reached the frame rails, so that means you can get away with cutting out the sheetmetal arounnd that area, but wont have to weld or rivet new rails in. I did exactly this on my Z. I just got some steel and bent it and cut it to fit flat, and just riveted it in. Then sealed the edges really well with asphalt water sealant calking. then sealed and ruberized-undercoated the whole undrside and sealed and painted the inside. It only cost me about 45 Dollars. Don't take my word for it though, I have a 76 280z, and im not sure if my way would be kosher for 240z hard core purists, hehe. Do watever you feel is nessesary.

I actually did email him, and got a reply from him with just some general info about ZONC, but no real news on what we must do to get a chapter going. I assume I'll have to join ZONC first though. I guess i should go get 30 bucks.....