280zx Fever

Ok im thinking of getting my chassis straightened and then weld in a new left hand mud guard and raidator support bracket ? pics are in my gallery. and also where would i go about getting these parts ?

well im only using a 120y raidator and a old thermo fan but i had it up too 1/2 on the gauge and it still idles the same so id say that it doesnt change

i payed $50 for my car. it is nothing now but even if i part it out i could get close to 1,000 i think so i dont think its a dud but a work in progress

Well all it has is the hose from the valve cover to the tb... i took it off started it up and it idles @ 1000rpm and slowly dies to nothing... so i think from not getting any blow by its ideling higher,, what else could it be ?

Well im unsure atm...anyone had advice with chassis work ? like when do you call it a wreck ?

another pic.

anyone know of places that could straighten my chassis ?

Ok there was "was" a 260z for sale in the quakka for $55 bare shell. theres also a totally restored 280zx for 4,999 plus some other 280zx's... so if any of u perth guys see a cheap 280zx for $0-$500 thats straight give me a holler

Ok i finally got her running on 6cyl after the firing order was wrong. This problem was there before that aswell... I cannot get it too idle at 1000rpm without retarding the timing down insanely..then it runs like $^!#... I got it set at 10 degrees atm which is fine but the idle is at 1500-1750 rpm ..... i havent cheack the throttle body except for air leaks but i wouldnt know what to check besides the air leaks..i checked the air boot thats fine. Now here is a strange thing..i have virtually no blow by when i take off the oil cap thats well and good considering the engine isnt all that old but when i take off the line from the valve cover too the tb and blow in it simulating blow by the idle drops down.. could the valve cover pipe be blocked or something else ?

I would love to drive the nully in a Z or ZX spend the whole trip doing 200+km/h because you can only get a maximum 3 demerits and $500 fine

Air mixture could be wrong..

you need to take the head off to do it properly sorry guys but when you push down on the valve spring what happens ! the whole valve moves! and you would need to put something into the cylinder to stop it moving. Dont bother just replacing the valve stems do it properly the first time.

you can count one HS130 and one HGS130 from me

you will need the following top overhaul kit which includes headgasket manifold gaskets fuel pump gasket rocker cover hasket timing chain inspection panel gasket valve stem seals. What you do is take the head off dahh and the manifolds and then remove the rocker gear cam etc... Remove the valves from the head or just take it into a engine recondition place they will re grind the valve seats and replace the guides if they are worn and test out the springs aswell The valves WILL have to be lapped in. It cost me $4 to grind each valve and $4 to seat the valve so your looking at around 100 to get the head done with a light skim, then up to 150 for the top overhaul kit. Good luck

Nah should bolt straight on ! though closing the bonnet might be hard and a custom mainfold might cost a sweet penny tell me how you go

Yeah i should invest in a book the guy who sold it too me said he had a manual but when i went to pick it up. He was like what ??? what book ??

i remember it now cuz its Odd then Even

yeah if you didnt mention that id probaly be still there with my head under the hood (even know its got not bonnet)

I have a 1979 280zx Fairlady Z HGS130-000713. I pressume its a R200 but what gearing ? and whats the differnce between them ?

Ok after i got my 280zx running i just couldnt get it too run on all 6 ! so after numerous times with the plugs out and fuel rail and injectors i came here from some help. in the end the firing order was wrong So to sum things up check the obvious

yeah mine is a HGS130-000713 79 Model Fairlady

ok i checked it and it was 1-5-2-6-3-4 so i changed it too 1-5-3-6-2-4 and it purrs like a kitten after all that hassle it was the simplest thing.... now i get a body and im rolling !!

if you havent had the head retorqued after the rebuild you should do ! rule of thumb 1000km/h after the heads been off you need to re torque it

Watch the temp gauge ! but if you have time i would take the head off and check could be a cracked water gallery or something..

Could be anything from not being tuned to a clogged up secondary jet...