Zs-ondabrain

the only connection the battery has to the electrical system is THE FUSABLE LINK!!! If nothing works, then the fusable is shot. Disconnect it and test it. If you use a test light, ground one end and probe the disconnected end. if nothing, then test the other end of the fusable link, that is bolted to the start, same as the battery cable. This will tell you what you need to know. Dave.

Without buying that particular one, I can't be sure. but yes, that looks like the right one. Obewon posted 3 links and the first seemed to have the correct one as well. #plug8973 is the correct one, I can't copy and paste from there cause it's protected... http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/connectors.htm I'll look into them when I get back from MSA. I apologize for upsetting anyone, but I guess all I needed to do is threaten a little... LOL Thanks guys, Dave.

Ya I was wondering if you guys got hit by that crap last night, my mom called around 10:30 and said she had 6 frackin inches in the back yard. Lynnwood usually gets it worse. Damn convergence zones... Glad to hear all is OK. I was cut off in the first year that I owned my Z, in the rain. I slid sideways at about 35MPH and hit the curb with the rear right wheel. It snapped my strut housing in half and made the spindle pin look like a "Z". it also bent up the dogleg a little. but it's all good now. Sorry again, Dave.

STage 2. It's a 470/280 grind and is perfect for streetability and autocrossing. I get great fuel milage and awesome top end (3000 to 6000 is the best range) Dave.

See there Jay, I told ya someone would have a line on them, some where. Dave.

To question #1 -- YES!!! Easier starting, better fuel economy, more power at higher RPM's. Or at least that's what I've experienced. To question #2 -- Unfortunately, the MSD 6A will need to be coupled with the MSD Tach Adaptor, Part # 8910? I think. -or- 8910EIS (electronic ignition system) they run under $30. Easy install with instructions. your Mallories green trigger wire goes to the MSD's white trigger wire. Big red to battery, big black to closest ground, small black and orange to the Promaster coil. small red to keyed ignition wire (Usually the same wire that the Unilite is powered with as long as it's a 12 volt keyed source) I can't remember the rest but I know it's on this site somewhere as well as HybridZ. I can't be the only other one with this set-up. If yu can't find it, let me know, I'll go look at the car and try and make a diagram for ya, but look around here first. Dave.

He's been working on the car, His Z is just what his screen name implies, a rust bucket. When I installed the headlight upgrade harness for him, I informed him of things that needed to be done, including a FULL run through of the electrical. I think his battery is old and the alternator is even older. Unless he'ss done something about it since I was there this winter. He's a friend of The Ian Monster, owner of my previous yellow Z. It was Ian that kinda got him into the whole Z scene. His lights were shot and I could'nt find the problem in the short amount of time that I was there, so I installed the Upgrade harness to give him some decent driving lights. Dave.

Pull the "All nighters" and "Get-er-done" tell the boss you need monday off so you have an extra day. You'll need that day for the fine tuning. Check all your fluids, electrical, nuts, bolts, carbs, fuel, etc, etc. It'll make every minute of the drive to and from the event, worth every penny. Not to mention all the help you'll get "At the show" by any and all who are willing to help fine tune your Z for the ride home. Hope to see ya there. Good luck on your decision, Dave.

Start checking the Fusable link. It's located between the starter and the engine harness. Use an ohms meter to see if it has contact between the 2 ends. Also check your battery cables, clean them and all the grounds real well. one other to check the fusable link is to distconnect it from the harness, leaving the other end bolted to the starter, use a test light between a ground and the end you disconnected. If it lights up, it's good and you need to look elsewhere.

I believe it gets it "turn on Signal" from the tach wire, if I remember correctly. When the tach gets sufficiant signal (car is running) the relay for the pump turns on. As for the Mech. fuel pump. It works on a diaphram valve (kinda like the one way valve on a gas mask. so fuel can be pushed past the diaphram if the mech pump fails and the Electric pumps is working properly. The electric pump should allow fuel to pass if it's being sucked to the front by way of mechanical pump. not 100% sure but it sounds right to me. Anyone else wanna chime in? Dave

And to add to that, it may appear to be good on the outside so give it a "Tug" to make sure it did'nt burn on the inside of the wire. Or just use an Ohms meter to check for continuity. Let us know what you find. Dave.

actually, this is an easy one. The switch I used is a "Momemtary Contact Switch" or Rocker style. Just like a power window switch or door lock switch. ON-OFF-ON. The reason for this type of switch in the S30 or 70' to 78' Z's is the fact that the Stock S30 antenna is NOT a "Fully Automatic" style, like you're used to on newer vehicles. Replacement antenna's, that are fully Automatic, require a (-)ground, a constant (+) and a trigger wire (+)-constant to keep the antenna up and no power--to lower the antenna. It's not typical on the fully automatic antenna to be able to control antenna height. However, the stock S30 antenna may be put at any height due to the manual pressing of the switch, which controls up and down.. Metra makes the 44-PW22 "Fully automatic antenna". It's a direct replacement for the stock Datsun Z antenna. Very little modification is needed. When using an after market radio (with a blue antenna activation wire) Just instal it, ground the black (-) wire, connect the red and blue wires to the stock wires. (red to the stock wire that provides power with the key on and blue to any of the other 2 stock wires, find that wire wire up front and connect it to the blue aftermarket radios antenna activation wire. If using a stock radio, same as above applies. just connect the blue antenna wire to an ON-OFF SPST switch that has power from the ACC wire of the ignition. Hope this helps a little. By the way, you don't give yourself enough credit. You actually explained everything very well. Most on this site are not able to do that when it comes to electrical. Dave.

as for #2. This is typical because the draw from the fan motor requires more of the alternator. This puts a strain on the alternator and makes it harder to turn, so the motor slows a bit due to the tension on the belt. The fan also takes power away from the ignition system and may slow or decrease the power that the spark plugs normally see at an idle. hense the slowing of the motor. New cars have crank and voltage sensors that tell the computer to speed up to make up for the draw on the system. So when the A/C or the fan kicks on, the idle will drop for a second then come back up because the computer tells it to. and by the way, a 200 RPM drop, when the fan kicks on or clutch is activated, is nothing to be worried about. But if the motors idle drops so much as to die or not be able to recover, then you have a problem. JMO Dave.

I think it was Will or Enrique that said they LOVE Diehard batteries. But Unless someone else pays for it, I'll stick with my Interstates. Dave.

And you'll also find that the 260Z and 280Z's have the radio mounted in the center console. The 240Z's radio is mounted in the dash. Same general area but larger center consoles in the 260/280Z's allow the radio to sit in it.

early model is anything from 10/7_' to 4/7_' and late model is anything from 4/7_' to 10/7_' Yours is a very late 260Z, the 280Z started in late 10 of 74'. And if you're carefull, you can remove that overspray with acitone. And most of the time, if won't even remove the black lettering from the door plate.