Zs-ondabrain

I don't know what that "Dave" used but I ONLY use Interstate Batteries. And nothing else. Theya re under-rated. My 60 month battery lasted for almost 9 years and 3 different cars. And I have all the power options including a huge stereo. Dave.

That's awesome, but it just seems to be missing that "VROOM VROOOOM" How about a little speaker in the back to reproduce the exhaust notes.LOLLOL Dave.

They sucked because the vinyl kept peeling up when the gauge got warm. I completely washed and used an alcohol swab on every inch of the faces, and they still peeled. The tach alignment is off, They don't make a Speedo gauge for the early 240Z's, like mine, I had to make my own. Just not happy with the whole $70 purchace and end up having to redo half of them and also make my own. 7277, I look at them everyday, hard to NOT notice every detail

Grab it like a thumb tack and gently pull straight up. If it's anything like the 240Z tach. I had to pull mine to put on the MSA white face gauge kit, that I might add "Sucks". The 240Z tach needle rests at zero so it makes it real esy to set the needle back to zero when re-installing. You'll notice on the below pics that the screws lifted the sticker a little. I think this can be fixed by using a very thin washer for the screw head to turn on, rather than binding on the vinyl.

I realized last night, just before I shut the TV off, that I screwed up. I meant to say ACT instead of aim. I figured it out after I saw an ACT mouthwash commercial. I think it means Advanced Clutch Technologies or something like that. Dave

I don't know if this will help or not but we're supposed to have 70 degree weather here tomorrow (Saturday) Which is perfect timing cause I just got the windows tinted and the cars interior needs to heat up to dry it out. So I figure I'll pull it out of the garage and polish the wheels while she's heating up. cheer up man, summers a comin...... Dave.

I keep hearing good things about AIM clutches.

*UPDATE* Unless someone sells me some female connectors, I will no longer be making the "Plug and Play" Parking light upgrade harness's for the pre 3/73' 240Z's Please read this forum link for more info. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=30137 Thanks, Dave.

Well, as projected earlier this year, I've run out of female connectors that make the PLH "Plug and Play" for the pre 3/73' 240Z. So all Parking light upgrade harness's are now Hard-wire only. Unless someone can find me a whole bunch of the female connectors shown below. If anyone has spare female connectors that they'd like to sell me, I'll give you $1.50 a peice. That's more than I was paying for the brand new ones when they were available. Please contact me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com The good news is that the Hard wire version is still available for all S30's. But you'll have to cut just 1 wire and tie in my harness. It's very easy takes only a minute longer than the Plug and play instal. The hard-wire version is only $35 and readily available. once again, email me if you have any spare female plugs you'd like to sell me in order to keep the "Plug and Play" versions available. Thanks for your patronage thus far. Dave. Plug needed is the first picture and the one on the right in the second picture.

Ya need one of those "Rusty nasty looking retainer clips" per emblem stud. SOmeone here should chime in on where to find them. Maybe an automotive paint supply store, as they deal with emblem removal and installing with paint jobs. They are small Barrel looking clips that are made of a spring material to hold them into place with pressure. Dave.

I do, but I'm on my last few connectors, yours will be one of the last "Plug and Play" Parking light upgrade harness's that I'll be able to make, unless I find another supplier. All other PLH's will be hard-wire only until I find some more connectors. just write me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com I think someone else had mentioned another year of civic that has the smaller slotted shaft, 90' or something like that. Dave.

Pick up a cheap 1 wire O2 sensor from the auto parts store. While you're there, grab an air fuel gauge. just make sure the meter has a one wire input and that the meter gets grounded well to make a good connection. The 2 wire O2 works faster cause one of those wires helps pre-warm it, as O2 sensors work best when warm. That's about it. I copied this from a forum on HybridZ.org ........ " well your main concern when tuning an engine is to keep the all the cylinders running aproximately the same ratio and at about 12.8:1 for max power up to about 14.7:1 for low emmissions and good mileage, so whats the advantage/disadvantages a fuel air meter uses a o2 sensor, if you place it in the header collector it gives an AVERAGE of all the cylinders on that cylinder head,If theres an (X) installed close to the dual collectors reversion pulses can occasionally even give data from the other side of the engine, so in theory and in practice you can have two cylinders run lean and two rich and the AVERAGE tends to look RICH to the O2 sensor as it SEES unburnt fuel, if you place it in the individual primary header tubes you either need eight O2 sensors (VERY EXPENSIVE, and keeping the wires from burning or grounding outs a TOTAL P.I.T.A......IF you don,t succeed you destroy the O2 sensor and need to replace it.) or you need to be constantly swapping very hot and fragile O2 sensors and bung plugs constantly, but with the IR thermometer you can almost instantly see which cylinders are running hotter or cooler and adjust the jets or look for vacuum leaks, or other CAUSED for the TEMP DIFFERANCE, ETC, far faster too get all the cylinders running at approximately the same temp, indicating the same fuel air ratio, youll be amazed at how close the temp follows the fuel/air ratio, and you can confirm it with plug condition and the other test equipment. run any cylinder too lean and detonation can break rings or melt pistons, run it too rich and you can wash the oil off the cylinder walls and ruin rings/scuff pistons, you need to know whats going on in EACH CYLINDER not the AVERAGE of all cylinders. SO, if your going to install a decent wide band fuel air ratio meter on your car thats fine, its going to be an asset to your tunning skills, if you install the indicator/gauge inside the car and weld in a couple extra bungs in the collectors for tunning and wide band O2 sensors which are a big help, but you will quickly find that its a P.I.T.A. to use it for tune ups on all your buddies cars with the welding collector bungs and installing plugs and O2 sensors while the IR thermometer route is fast and very simple and you can confirm with oplug reading the condition of the engine. YEAH! theres meters that you can stick in a tail pipe, but they read THE AVERAGE, not the individual cylinders , think about AVERAGEs AS my old physics proffesor once said, IF, I pour molten lead in your front slacks pockets and pack your butt in solid with DRY ICE,.... ON AVERAGE your comfortable " Also see these.... Great info as well.... http://www.racetep.com/halmeter.html http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html http://www.redline.lt/magazine/spec-features/article/article/17/1/ Dave.

I used a dull putty knife. I slid it under in the middle, between the posts, then gave a slight twist near each pole. A little on each pole till they were all the way out. No damage and everything was intact. On the fenders, I was able to do the same but also was able to reach behind. I used a small allen wrench to poke through the metal clip and push the tabs out, on 2 posts I think. Dave.

You're supposed to read my mind when I write stuff like that. Like is usually say "listen to what I mean, NOT what I say" I should have wrote run a new wire from the B to the (+) on the coil. Sometimes I forget to be really specific when writing instructions. Thanks for the clarification, Dave.

Don't worry about the last 6 inches. As long as the initial run of metal is protected, you'll be ok. The whole idea behind the silicone is "Anti-vibration" just like using a small patch of dyno-mat on a large sheet of metal to slow the vibration and resinence of that metal. Dave.

That's kinda what I said, I think. "" B--(+) on the coil C--(-) on the coil "" is that right?

What mounting neck did you use? The 280ZX mount or the 240Z mount. I ask because they are different. the orientation of the body is not important. The important part is when you attach the cap, the #1 plug is located above the rotors point. Then it's all fine tuning from there. Just remember that the E12-80 dizzy was not made specifically for this application, so you're basically "retro-fitting" in order to make it work for your application. Dave.

Lamborghini. My first love was the old Countach 5000S. That was the first Sports car model I ever built, the damn kit cost me $30 and it had over 300 peices. Then they came out with the Diablo VT and I drooled for a week straight. If I'm ever rich, I will own a VT. Dave.

Gotta be bound all the way around. I've seen them without. Bound around the mounting tab area under the front seats or it'll rip too easy. That reminds me, I need NEW carpet soon. Great questions Arne. Dave

B--(+) on the coil C--(-) on the coil 180 off is incorrect. should attach the same as stock unit. Make sure #1 is towards the radiator. It's so simple that most people complicate it. I just did one last week on Justin54321's Z. Loosen the adjustment screws, Get your #1 piston to TDC, install the dizzy so it locks down onto the pin correctly, install the cap then put the #1 spark plug wire onto the post that is closes to the radiator where the rotor is pointing.. So before the cap goes on, the rotor should point forward'ish, note that mentally, instal cap and see which pole is closes to the rotors location, that's your #1 wire location. Then install all the Spark plug wires, 1,5,3,6,2,4 ??? in counter-clockwise arrangement. Even if the rotor points to the rear, make that post your #1 spark plug location and go 1,5,3,6,2,4 conter clockwise.

I have no idea what the original question or comment was. but I think your keyboard is broken as well...... BROKEN IGNITION, not broked ingition. Sorry, spell police are on duty. And giggling all the way to the bank.

Only real difference is the bell housing, they also used the BW T-5 in the 300ZX but that was with the V6 motor. What you need is the correct bell housing and if you use the 300ZX T-5, you'll need to swap out the input shaft for the shorter 280ZX style. I Have a 300ZX B/W T-5 in the garage if anyone is interested. It needs a rebuild and the correct input shaft and bell housing. Dave.

Glad to help. My guess would also be that it was "Tapped" and just needed to be repaired. Dave.

Most white/red large gauge wires in the Z are HOT leads. One goes to the ignition and one to the fuse box, I believe. Finish the cut and reconnect it with a butt connector. Or finish the cut and solder both ends together then tape the hell out of it, or use heat-shrink over the solder joint. Dave.

OK, so back to the original post. Why don't you have Turn signals or headlights? Dave.