Zs-ondabrain

Start checking the Fusable link. It's located between the starter and the engine harness. Use an ohms meter to see if it has contact between the 2 ends. Also check your battery cables, clean them and all the grounds real well. one other to check the fusable link is to distconnect it from the harness, leaving the other end bolted to the starter, use a test light between a ground and the end you disconnected. If it lights up, it's good and you need to look elsewhere.

I believe it gets it "turn on Signal" from the tach wire, if I remember correctly. When the tach gets sufficiant signal (car is running) the relay for the pump turns on. As for the Mech. fuel pump. It works on a diaphram valve (kinda like the one way valve on a gas mask. so fuel can be pushed past the diaphram if the mech pump fails and the Electric pumps is working properly. The electric pump should allow fuel to pass if it's being sucked to the front by way of mechanical pump. not 100% sure but it sounds right to me. Anyone else wanna chime in? Dave

And to add to that, it may appear to be good on the outside so give it a "Tug" to make sure it did'nt burn on the inside of the wire. Or just use an Ohms meter to check for continuity. Let us know what you find. Dave.

actually, this is an easy one. The switch I used is a "Momemtary Contact Switch" or Rocker style. Just like a power window switch or door lock switch. ON-OFF-ON. The reason for this type of switch in the S30 or 70' to 78' Z's is the fact that the Stock S30 antenna is NOT a "Fully Automatic" style, like you're used to on newer vehicles. Replacement antenna's, that are fully Automatic, require a (-)ground, a constant (+) and a trigger wire (+)-constant to keep the antenna up and no power--to lower the antenna. It's not typical on the fully automatic antenna to be able to control antenna height. However, the stock S30 antenna may be put at any height due to the manual pressing of the switch, which controls up and down.. Metra makes the 44-PW22 "Fully automatic antenna". It's a direct replacement for the stock Datsun Z antenna. Very little modification is needed. When using an after market radio (with a blue antenna activation wire) Just instal it, ground the black (-) wire, connect the red and blue wires to the stock wires. (red to the stock wire that provides power with the key on and blue to any of the other 2 stock wires, find that wire wire up front and connect it to the blue aftermarket radios antenna activation wire. If using a stock radio, same as above applies. just connect the blue antenna wire to an ON-OFF SPST switch that has power from the ACC wire of the ignition. Hope this helps a little. By the way, you don't give yourself enough credit. You actually explained everything very well. Most on this site are not able to do that when it comes to electrical. Dave.

as for #2. This is typical because the draw from the fan motor requires more of the alternator. This puts a strain on the alternator and makes it harder to turn, so the motor slows a bit due to the tension on the belt. The fan also takes power away from the ignition system and may slow or decrease the power that the spark plugs normally see at an idle. hense the slowing of the motor. New cars have crank and voltage sensors that tell the computer to speed up to make up for the draw on the system. So when the A/C or the fan kicks on, the idle will drop for a second then come back up because the computer tells it to. and by the way, a 200 RPM drop, when the fan kicks on or clutch is activated, is nothing to be worried about. But if the motors idle drops so much as to die or not be able to recover, then you have a problem. JMO Dave.

I think it was Will or Enrique that said they LOVE Diehard batteries. But Unless someone else pays for it, I'll stick with my Interstates. Dave.

And you'll also find that the 260Z and 280Z's have the radio mounted in the center console. The 240Z's radio is mounted in the dash. Same general area but larger center consoles in the 260/280Z's allow the radio to sit in it.

early model is anything from 10/7_' to 4/7_' and late model is anything from 4/7_' to 10/7_' Yours is a very late 260Z, the 280Z started in late 10 of 74'. And if you're carefull, you can remove that overspray with acitone. And most of the time, if won't even remove the black lettering from the door plate.

I don't know what that "Dave" used but I ONLY use Interstate Batteries. And nothing else. Theya re under-rated. My 60 month battery lasted for almost 9 years and 3 different cars. And I have all the power options including a huge stereo. Dave.

That's awesome, but it just seems to be missing that "VROOM VROOOOM" How about a little speaker in the back to reproduce the exhaust notes.LOLLOL Dave.

They sucked because the vinyl kept peeling up when the gauge got warm. I completely washed and used an alcohol swab on every inch of the faces, and they still peeled. The tach alignment is off, They don't make a Speedo gauge for the early 240Z's, like mine, I had to make my own. Just not happy with the whole $70 purchace and end up having to redo half of them and also make my own. 7277, I look at them everyday, hard to NOT notice every detail

Grab it like a thumb tack and gently pull straight up. If it's anything like the 240Z tach. I had to pull mine to put on the MSA white face gauge kit, that I might add "Sucks". The 240Z tach needle rests at zero so it makes it real esy to set the needle back to zero when re-installing. You'll notice on the below pics that the screws lifted the sticker a little. I think this can be fixed by using a very thin washer for the screw head to turn on, rather than binding on the vinyl.

I realized last night, just before I shut the TV off, that I screwed up. I meant to say ACT instead of aim. I figured it out after I saw an ACT mouthwash commercial. I think it means Advanced Clutch Technologies or something like that. Dave

I don't know if this will help or not but we're supposed to have 70 degree weather here tomorrow (Saturday) Which is perfect timing cause I just got the windows tinted and the cars interior needs to heat up to dry it out. So I figure I'll pull it out of the garage and polish the wheels while she's heating up. cheer up man, summers a comin...... Dave.

I keep hearing good things about AIM clutches.

*UPDATE* Unless someone sells me some female connectors, I will no longer be making the "Plug and Play" Parking light upgrade harness's for the pre 3/73' 240Z's Please read this forum link for more info. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=30137 Thanks, Dave.

Well, as projected earlier this year, I've run out of female connectors that make the PLH "Plug and Play" for the pre 3/73' 240Z. So all Parking light upgrade harness's are now Hard-wire only. Unless someone can find me a whole bunch of the female connectors shown below. If anyone has spare female connectors that they'd like to sell me, I'll give you $1.50 a peice. That's more than I was paying for the brand new ones when they were available. Please contact me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com The good news is that the Hard wire version is still available for all S30's. But you'll have to cut just 1 wire and tie in my harness. It's very easy takes only a minute longer than the Plug and play instal. The hard-wire version is only $35 and readily available. once again, email me if you have any spare female plugs you'd like to sell me in order to keep the "Plug and Play" versions available. Thanks for your patronage thus far. Dave. Plug needed is the first picture and the one on the right in the second picture.

Ya need one of those "Rusty nasty looking retainer clips" per emblem stud. SOmeone here should chime in on where to find them. Maybe an automotive paint supply store, as they deal with emblem removal and installing with paint jobs. They are small Barrel looking clips that are made of a spring material to hold them into place with pressure. Dave.

I do, but I'm on my last few connectors, yours will be one of the last "Plug and Play" Parking light upgrade harness's that I'll be able to make, unless I find another supplier. All other PLH's will be hard-wire only until I find some more connectors. just write me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com I think someone else had mentioned another year of civic that has the smaller slotted shaft, 90' or something like that. Dave.

Pick up a cheap 1 wire O2 sensor from the auto parts store. While you're there, grab an air fuel gauge. just make sure the meter has a one wire input and that the meter gets grounded well to make a good connection. The 2 wire O2 works faster cause one of those wires helps pre-warm it, as O2 sensors work best when warm. That's about it. I copied this from a forum on HybridZ.org ........ " well your main concern when tuning an engine is to keep the all the cylinders running aproximately the same ratio and at about 12.8:1 for max power up to about 14.7:1 for low emmissions and good mileage, so whats the advantage/disadvantages a fuel air meter uses a o2 sensor, if you place it in the header collector it gives an AVERAGE of all the cylinders on that cylinder head,If theres an (X) installed close to the dual collectors reversion pulses can occasionally even give data from the other side of the engine, so in theory and in practice you can have two cylinders run lean and two rich and the AVERAGE tends to look RICH to the O2 sensor as it SEES unburnt fuel, if you place it in the individual primary header tubes you either need eight O2 sensors (VERY EXPENSIVE, and keeping the wires from burning or grounding outs a TOTAL P.I.T.A......IF you don,t succeed you destroy the O2 sensor and need to replace it.) or you need to be constantly swapping very hot and fragile O2 sensors and bung plugs constantly, but with the IR thermometer you can almost instantly see which cylinders are running hotter or cooler and adjust the jets or look for vacuum leaks, or other CAUSED for the TEMP DIFFERANCE, ETC, far faster too get all the cylinders running at approximately the same temp, indicating the same fuel air ratio, youll be amazed at how close the temp follows the fuel/air ratio, and you can confirm it with plug condition and the other test equipment. run any cylinder too lean and detonation can break rings or melt pistons, run it too rich and you can wash the oil off the cylinder walls and ruin rings/scuff pistons, you need to know whats going on in EACH CYLINDER not the AVERAGE of all cylinders. SO, if your going to install a decent wide band fuel air ratio meter on your car thats fine, its going to be an asset to your tunning skills, if you install the indicator/gauge inside the car and weld in a couple extra bungs in the collectors for tunning and wide band O2 sensors which are a big help, but you will quickly find that its a P.I.T.A. to use it for tune ups on all your buddies cars with the welding collector bungs and installing plugs and O2 sensors while the IR thermometer route is fast and very simple and you can confirm with oplug reading the condition of the engine. YEAH! theres meters that you can stick in a tail pipe, but they read THE AVERAGE, not the individual cylinders , think about AVERAGEs AS my old physics proffesor once said, IF, I pour molten lead in your front slacks pockets and pack your butt in solid with DRY ICE,.... ON AVERAGE your comfortable " Also see these.... Great info as well.... http://www.racetep.com/halmeter.html http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html http://www.redline.lt/magazine/spec-features/article/article/17/1/ Dave.

I used a dull putty knife. I slid it under in the middle, between the posts, then gave a slight twist near each pole. A little on each pole till they were all the way out. No damage and everything was intact. On the fenders, I was able to do the same but also was able to reach behind. I used a small allen wrench to poke through the metal clip and push the tabs out, on 2 posts I think. Dave.

You're supposed to read my mind when I write stuff like that. Like is usually say "listen to what I mean, NOT what I say" I should have wrote run a new wire from the B to the (+) on the coil. Sometimes I forget to be really specific when writing instructions. Thanks for the clarification, Dave.

Don't worry about the last 6 inches. As long as the initial run of metal is protected, you'll be ok. The whole idea behind the silicone is "Anti-vibration" just like using a small patch of dyno-mat on a large sheet of metal to slow the vibration and resinence of that metal. Dave.

That's kinda what I said, I think. "" B--(+) on the coil C--(-) on the coil "" is that right?

What mounting neck did you use? The 280ZX mount or the 240Z mount. I ask because they are different. the orientation of the body is not important. The important part is when you attach the cap, the #1 plug is located above the rotors point. Then it's all fine tuning from there. Just remember that the E12-80 dizzy was not made specifically for this application, so you're basically "retro-fitting" in order to make it work for your application. Dave.