Zs-ondabrain

OK but 15.9? Are they including the fuel in the lines, filter and float bowls? I filled mine with 1 gallon to get me to the gas station after the rebuild in the winter of 06'. Got to the has station and was only able to put 14.02 gallons in, to the top of the filler. Am I missing something or do I have "One of those" Z's? Dave.

Hey Carl, What 240Z came with a 15.9 gallon tank. If I squeeze 14 gallons in, it's because I can touch the gas at the top of the filler. Misprint or wrong Z? Dave.

One way is to remove the glove box insert then reach thru the opening to the inner dash to loosen the 8mm screw. disconnect the wires then push it in towards the firewall and into your right hand. At that point, you can either fix it or replace it.

Hell, even I'm intrigued.

I don't wanna look at anymore Z's for sale. I just spent $550 on a 260Z and that's my MSA Money. Now I gotta work twice as hard to make sure I have enough money for the trip. 1200 miles in gas money is gonna kill my wallet. I'll be lucky if it catch on fire, from me pulling money out so fast. You look and get back to me. Dave

Or what about this one??? http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/car/612007669.html

On the tranni, I washed it down first using a degreaser, then I used a 6" wire wheel on my buffer (hand held) and rand it all over the tranni to give it that shiny "Cast" look. Turned out pretty decent. No painting, polishing, plating and or dissasembly needed. You can barely see the tranni in the pic but it looked great when it was first done. I also did the same thing on the master cylinder. 6" on the 1/2 horse bench top. Dave.

Nope. I have a fully automatic antenna and it's controlled by my radios blue remote wire. No switches to fuss with. The antenna is a METRA PW-22. about $50

True, but at least it gave me a chance to show him what a well built Z CAN do, if you put in the right parts. I love that video. Dave.

That totally sucks. I am truly sorry for your loss. The saying of "mans best friend" is totally understated. I've lost 2 dogs, 1 to old age (Speedy-chihuahua? 17 years old, RIP) and the other (Jake-hit and run, age 4, RIP) I cant even imagine what I'd do if I ever lost this guy (Buck) any time soon. He's my BEST FRIEND. He can make the worst days better and he's a great listener. Dave. Pic 1 "How was your day Dad? Pic 2 My 2 best friends in the world Pic 3 Knock it off dad Pic 4 Asleep after a hard day.

Did'nt we already deal with this idiot on the same exact subject, once already this year? If you really need to see a 240Z do a burn-out, Here's me in my 70'......

Yup, got it on Saturday, I think. I have some stuff on order but they'll get done ASAP. Thanks again E. Dave.

Thanks Blue, Now I'm gonna have that damn song stuck in my head all Fricken day long. Thanks again, Dave.

I know, Silly. That's what the LOL were there for. As a joke. Good find though. Dave.

Austin, Well that figures. Oh well, think of it this way, 1) you got a switch that works, 2) it doesn't take up any other space other than the space that was meant for the antenna switch 3) now you have a plate that you can add another switch to if you decide to instal Fog or driving lights. Take that Stephen.... LOL Dave

Sorry for "jacking" the forum but I have a similar question for anyone who knows. I want to rebuild my 2.4 and I'm thinking a 30 over bore should suffice. I have a rebuilt N42 head that has also been resurfaced for clearance (least amount possible). I'll be using my 470/280 stage 2 cam and the triple 40DCOE's and ceramic coated header and Mallory Unilite w/ MSD 6A and promaster coil, So my questions are these......... Is it cheaper to go with a 20, 30, 40 or 50 over bore? Flat tops are probably the better style for a standard rebuild (not looking for serious power or CR) so should I go with Forged or Cast pistons? Milled? Are they comparitble with my existing rods or should I buy new? Also, which-ever is better, should I ballance them beyond stock specs. I'll obviously ballance the crank and likely have everything polished. Is "Knife edging" the crank even possible or needed? I will ballance and lighten the flywheel. but I don't want it so light that it effects daily drivability. 10lbs is too light, standard is 24lbs? do you think 16lbs is a good round number? I hear alot about NOT going with the Centerforce 1 or 2, what is the best clutch pack to go with for the build I have in mind. ANy info is greatly appreciated, I'm not looking for all out HP, the car will still be a daily driver, Fuel milage is still a consideration, and I'd like it to last as long as the original did. A Conservative build is what I have in mind, extra HP is obviously in the works but Hi numbers aren't necessary. All this will be on a "Daves" Budget. (under $1000) Are used piston and new rings even an option? Sorry again for jacking the forum but I really need some basic answers. Thanks in advance, Dave.

I just found that exact page in my BD book. Here ya go Let me know if I got it right.

I can barely make it out but it says..... "One complete set includes all pistons, rings and pins necessary to complete one engine. Replace your old pistons today to avoid engine damage in the future." But that's it. same results as Jeff got. Sorry.

Fix all the problems first, then write me about wiring upgrades. I make upgrades for the 240Z's mostly, but it's like putting a rocking stereo into a car that has no floors and does'nt like to start. See what I mean? Sounds like all the right spots were hit. Heat shield, falty water pump, thermostat, vapor lock on the fuel lines because of heat(heatshield) Ballast resitor overheating and losing contact? All possibilities, one by one check 'em out. This is how everyone of us has gotten so 240Z savvy. Pay attension to every "ting, bang, knock, hickup" ask the questions or look it up in the search engine, read the possible answers and tell us what you found. After a while, You'll be the one answering questions for others. Also looks like your chokes need to be hooked up and used. Good luck, Dave.

You're Welcome? Where was the problem? Glad to help, all morning. Dave.

Then start checking all the connections between the headlight switch and the fusebox. that's where your problem is. Just for the hell of it, run a jumper wire from the Hot lead on the headlights (white/red stripe) over to the green/blue parking light wire, flip the switch to turn on the parking lights and see if everything lights up as it should. This wil let you know if everything beyond the switch is ok. Then start looking for the interuption between the switch and the fusebox. Using the correct size wires were not one of Nissans strong suits. But be patient. You've narrowed down the problem to 1 area. Better than having to check the whole damn car for that one break or issue. You're almost there. Dave.

So you're saying that the green/blue has power at the switch but the green/white gets NO power after flipping on the parking lights. If this is correct, the switch needs to be rebuilt. Plain and simple. If there is no power at the green/blue on the switch, then the problem is in the fusebox. I rebuild the combo and turn signals for all S30 Z's. It's a service I offer and it might sound like you need it. I charge $45 to completely rebuild both switches as a pair. Or $30 for only 1 switch. save money and be happy with both being rebuilt for only $45. Let me know about the first paragraph and what you want to do. Also, the red and the white/red wire is the headlights. Dave. wolfin32z@yahoo.com

OK, the parking lights (second filament) should be the green/white wire. Check the combo switch (headlight switch) the wire in question is also green/blue in a few places. If the sidemarkers are working without the use of the remote, then the problem is located in the rear only. If the sidemarkers only come on with the Lock remote, then you need to find out where the parking light wire was tapped for the keyless entry system, up front. The lower taillights in the rear are also located in the Turn Signal switch (green/red and green/black) If the bulbs are ok then make sure the ignition is on and try them again after checking the connections near the steering column. I can't do too much from my end but can at least try and throw the correct info your way and help ya figure it out. Hope this is helping some, Dave. *EDIT* Due to the update above. Check the fusebox with a test light and see if the parking light fuse is any good, looks can be deceiving. If the fuse is good, check for power at the switch itself. Switches go bad and it may need to be fixed up there.

What all works in the rear? Brakes? parking lights (not likely) ? Reverse lights? what works and what does'nt? This will tell me what to tell you, ya know? Dave.

in the back left area of the car, blue/white, blue/red and solid blue are the antenna wires. You said you "hit the remote Lock", that tells me you have an aftermarket keyless entry?? If so, I'd start checking around the dash area where the keyless entry system ties into the Z's wiring. Most keyless entry systems have a White wire for parking light illumination when the Arm or Disarm is hit on the remote. The rear lights are usually green based wires. Grren/white is parking lights, solid green is brakes, green/black is right T/S and Green/red is left T/S? Red/black is reverse and black is the ground. Don't forget to check the grounds to make sure they are all grounded. Grounds are the biggest problems in the Z's. If you have brake lights and reverse lights, then the ground is working. Proceed to the front steering column area. let us know what ya find. Dave.