Zs-ondabrain

http://www.racetep.com/weber.html to help ya get started

Nice thing about the FLUX CAPACITOR is you can meet them at the finish line and never have to break 90 MPH He's not picken on ya, He's just saying that there is a search engine here that has ALL the Answers you're looking for. It takes a lot of reading to get all the answers you need. Start reading the searches and try Hybrid for your V8 questions. Hope all this helped. Dave.

I have a triple set-up of Weber 40DCOE carbs. They run about $1500 before all the goodies. They bolt right up, little bit of linkage mods and adjusting but they bolt right up with the Cannon Manifold. triples - yes 4 - no way dual S.U.'s - perfect I have the triples because I also have a stage 2 cam (478/280 cam) ceramic coated 6-into-1 headers, 2-1/2" exhaust, turbo muffler, Mallory infra-red ignition, MSD 6A, etc, etc. when properly tuned, I get about 28 MPG, great tire smokin power, lopy idle. I get asked all the time "What size V8 ya got in there?"

He owns a 72' 240Z w/ a stock motor. (on his profile page)

Use the search button, There is plenty of links and info on the engine harness's and you'll even find completely rebuilt (like New) harness's on Ebay for about $500+ There's also a couple people who can point you too the Diagrams you're looking for. Good Luck, Dave.

Do a search around here, you'll find that completely rebuilt ZTHERAPY carbs do the trick. The S.U.'s ase fairly easy to rebuild as well http://www.ztherapy.com/ Stick with the inline 6, I can't promise the same HP as a big ol V8 but the complications and down time for the swap are a lot less. The ease of tuning, the upgrades and lightweight motor will keep your handling in tune. If you're serious about the V8, try HybridZ.org Dave.

Your wiper motor is working correctly. The relay attached to the motor housing swaps the polarity and reverses it to the Park position. If you choose to swap the motor for something stronger and faster..... Read this.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28989 Just an option to keep in mind. If you have any questions that were not asked or answered in that forum, feel free to post a question on that thread. By the way, I'm a woppin 6 miles away if ya ever wanna stop in and shoot the shite. Hell, we've probably already met at one time or another. PM me any time, Dave.

That's too damn funny. I used to have that EXACT 7167 tape deck in my 78' 510 Hatchback. I LOVED that deck. I also had 2 pioneer 4" 2-ways zip tied under the dash and 2 6x9"s in the old 6x9 wedge boxs. Then I stepped up to Carver Amps and processors cause my mom used to work on the Car audio line at Carver. So I got a new amp or DSP every holiday. Then my buddy sold me a pair of Aluma Pro subs and they kicked butt back then. Then I bumped up to a 15" Klipsch concert sub, THAT WAS AWESOME!!! Anyways, now-a-days, I have a Pioneer AM/FM/CD/XM tuner deck, a 4-ch Coustic to run the 2) Alpine 6-1/2" 2-way kick panel speakers in custom pods, 2) Kicker 400A 4" 2-ways in the doors, and the 2) pioneer slim style 5-1/4" 2-ways in the stock rear locations. Then I have a Coustic 400SE 2-ch amp for the 2) 10" subs in the new fiberglass spare tire well enclosure. Not to mention the HLH, PLH, ZXP, LED taillights and LED sidemarkers, power windows, power door locks, full alarm w/ keyless entry, H4 90/100 bulbs, Driving lights (55 watt), LED dome lights and Cold Cathode bulbs under the dash. The list still goes on but you get the idea. Dave. See ya on Monday Jon. Dave.

Actually, Mine came with 3 adhesive backed "tear away" Sheets. The only problem is finding replacements for it. The adhesive runs along the edges of the acrylic? sheet. Dave.

Start with new aftermarket springs and struts then have all four tires ballanced. Then see where you're at. just for starters, Anyone else want to chip in? Dave.

I have one from HF and it's similar but it also dumps abrasive out when you open the door, easy fix or solution is to spray the gun near the door before you open it to blow 99% of the media away from the seam. MAKE SURE TO GROUND THE UNIT!! Everytime I spray the glove with the Aluminum Oxide, if my face or any part of my body is too close, I get the crap shocked out of me. So I highly suggest grounding the cabinet somehow. The plastic Bench top one that I own does almost the same thing but running a wire thru one of the holes and onto the grill above the media, slows down the Static shock" factor. Other than that, I love them. I only paid $80 for the larger one (brand new floor model) and the smaller bench top cabinet was free cause a friend was moving into an apartment and had to sell off everything. He figured I could use it for free. Dave.

hold on, I think ya missunderstand what I'm getting at. When I glass bead the S.U.'s, ballance tubes, intakes and other aluminum, I do that for that "Cast Aluminum" look. Which is the look they usually have when new. I would never bead or shell blast any Aluminum part that would be later polished. Below are some examples of the SU parts that got bead blasted for the final "cast Look" pic #1 is of my current triple Webers and Cannon Manifold after I glass beaded them before rebuilding them and installing them on the Z pic #2 is a close up of the SU's I sold a while back Pic #3 is the complete SU set-up that I sold a few months ago.

Depending on how bad they are. Are usually start by picking off the bulky crap. then I use a horse brush with Carn or brake cleaner to loosen everything up. Then I'll spray off the rest and the end result is usual pretty nice. Carb and Brake cleaner has a tendency to dry out or make your gaskets harden, because it sucks the grease and other moisture out of the material. If you're doing a complete tare down, then I'd glass bead the outside to go for a "like new" look. Most linkage has a cadnium plating. The plating can corrode or fade after a while. So if the plating is corroded of too far gone, glass bead those as well and polish or paint them. I'd try to go with the polish but some material just don't like to be polished easily, so you paint the linkage a car color matching paint (paint it the same color as your car or go for the brushed look with a good Hi-temp Clear-coat. New rebuild kit or make your own gaskets like I usually do. Dave.

it more or less has the idea of keeping the water intake to a minimum, thru the door handle. And it also minimizes vibration when the door handle is released to soon. (flipped) The usually rott and fall off like E said

My early Valentines day gift was 2) 10" MTX subs. That's why I'm selling the single 12" sub in a custom fiberglass spare tire well enclosure with the amp and cover, in the classified section. Love the Infinity. looks like a hell of a deal. If I did'nt have 5 kids, I'd look into getting one myself. But it looks like mini vans are us, for me, for now. Dave.

he wrote and said " Its still here. Thats a great looking 260 you have there. I would rather not do payments, and $1600 would amount to about a 6% interest rate; you would have to at least pay the market rate of interest. If anything I could hold it for you for a deposit. Let me know if your situation changes,"" Not sure If I should write him back and tell him it's a 70' 240Z. Anyways. I'd really like the car and he doesn't seem to have too many bites so far. Wish I had the money or at least half. Seems like this type of thing only shows up when I'm broke. Dave.

well I figure it this way. If I get the Z, I'll have a choice of motors. He say the current motor has a bad ring or piston. That's fine. I'll pop my rebuilt N42 on the other 280 block and load some rebuilt S.U.'s on there. Probably go with a header and see where that gets me. but we gotta wait till I hear back from him, Fingers crossed people. :nervous: Dave.

you've pretty much got it down. Aluminum oxide is great for rust, paint removal and the such. I use the Glass bead for cleaning aluminum nicely but it takes alot longer to remove the tougher stuff. So I have 2) cabinets. One with Aluminum Oxide and the smaller one with glass bead. I run about 100 PSI on both.

I wrote him and asked if he'd take payments (couple hundred a month) so we'll see what he says. Been looking for another one for a while but can't afford to just LUMP SOME pay for it. He's in Gig Harbor, Due east of Tacoma so he's not Too far away. Dave.

If you're talking about mine, I actually went with KYB struts. Dave.

I got your message and was supposed to call ya. Sunday and or Monday work Great. Call me or email me. Lets say 10am on Sunday or monday. Dave.

I still have the "Post it" stuck to my monitor with your address. I do still plan on sending you money for your kindness. They made a big difference and I owe you. Thanks again, Dave.

Yes I found 6 from D. Walker in SC. KTM? I think. And that reminds me, I need to send him some money. Dave.

I'm still watching "DILIRIOUS" with John Candy and Merial Hemmingway. Comedy Central (Ch 60) Made in 1991. 1 hour? into the movie, John Candy offers his Ferreri 250 GTO for a fund raising auction. It's a 240Z / 250 GTO Replica, but it's a beautiful one. Just look at the door to fender lines. They drive the car for about five minutes of the movies, some of the driving is done blind folded, thru curvy twisting mountain roads, with a lot of sliding around corners. Thought I'd share and did'nt want to read thru 195? pages to see if it was mentioned already. Dave.

I just had the same issue but it turn out to be my MSD 6A ignition. It would rev to 3000 just fine but would'nt go a bit past it, without chugging and back firing like I was choking the hell out of it. So I bypassed the MSD and now I'm down to the Mallory Unilite and promaster coil with the stock ballast resistor. I think it might have had something to do with the buckets of rain I drove trhu the other day. Thank god for my new Honda wiper motor set-up. Just another thought. Dave.