Zs-ondabrain

I would have updated this thread at the same time as I did the others, But I was Strictly informed that "bumping the thread daily makes is an advertisement" and since Brian isn't a site Supporter, it's basically frowned apon. But yes, He still has plenty on the Technoversions site. I was merely letting people know of their availability and thanking them as well. But I totally understand. Dave

Actually PULL the Fusable links, clean the contacts that they came off, tighten or squeeze the ends of the fusable links and reinstall them. They should go on TIGHT. Just because they light a test probe, doesn't mean they are making good contact with the terminals. So physically pull, clean, test and reinstall them. Dave

You're in Luck Robin. The 3 wire turn signal switch (as apposed to the 6-wire) is much easier to rebuild. It has a sturdy contact plate so no rebending will be needed. Gently open the tabs, just enough to get the plate off the metal body of the switch. Just clean up the contacts, maybe use a high-grit piece of sandpaper (around 800 grit) to rough up the contact plates and use a very little strip of grease where the ball bearing slides. But do not put grease anywhere else. Gently rebend the tabs and reinstall the switch. Dave

You won't find very many 17" owners on this site. but I can tell you that 17x9.5 Rota's with 275/40ZR17 Hankooks won't fit on a lowered 70' 240Z. And there are 17x8's (-13 offset??) on the front with 245/45ZR17's (-19 offset ??) Just a test fit to see how they looked. Couldn't steer and would had rubbed in the rear had I tried to drive it. Dave

Grat advice on the Hazard switch. I too have had those exact issues on mine. I gotta wiggle it or cycle it a few times for the blinkers to work correctly again. The OP is in the Netherlands s I don't think he'll wanna go the other route. Shipping's a bich and pricey. Dave

Mine is a 240Z but the project car is an early 260Z. I don't know anything at this point. My brain is shot and after coming this close to LOSING everything yesterday (Virus and hacker attack that cost me $240 to fix in 4 hours) I'm about to give up. Dave

I don't think it'll be a big issue. If the stock fan is close enough and used with a shroud, it'll pull air one way or the other and cool down the contents. If you decide on Electric fans, a dual set-up will work beautifully and I almost Never hear mine unless I'm idling for at least 4 or 5 minutes without moving. Fans draw HP away from the car and can cause premature failure of the water pump bearing, and are not even needed after 30 MPH. something to consider. Dave

About 1" yes. Maybe a little more due to use and time. they sit lower as time goes by. Very typical of Eibach Progressive rate lowering springs, but I love them. 280Z's are heavier but I think Eibach did a stronger, taller spring for the 280Z's Dave

Nope, It was bought from NAPA and was about $30. Came with the copper line going to a 3" probe, a black rubber piece to help seal the copper line thru the rubber on the inlet. and the line is attached to a Dial Thermastat. Post #13 picture #2 I wish I wrote down the p/n. You're not the first to ask. Similar to this....... Also this could work.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16720/?rtype=10 Or this...... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16769/ This one is Real close to what I have, but has a smaller dial knob and costs more. http://www.streamlineus.com/ShowItem/125450%20Adjustable%20Temperature%20Control%20Switch.aspx Or this one... p/n PWI30104 half way down the page.. you'll also need a relay kit for the switch to turn on the fan. http://www.rjays.com/Cooling/elec-fans-01.htm

70' 240Z Eibach lowering springs Tokico Blue Struts 16x8 wheels 225/50ZR16

Actually, I think the Hazard flasher module is on the right side of the car. Best way to find it is turn on the hazards and listen for the clicking. Dave

Thanks, I'm real happy with the product and even happier to have found it on a site I regularly visit and buy from. Good stuff and it looks stock, without the stiffness. Dave

Mitchell, Try this... Near the bottom of the page, Section 6, Part number B11. It's the same tubing I use when I do Engine and dash harness refurbishing. As well as headlight bucket rewiring... http://vintageconnections.com/mail_order_form.htm Very flexible, and a nice touch to cleaned up wires. Just mark and unplug the wires on one side and slide it on. Dave Here's some front turn signal before and afters and some redone sidemarkers.

Sounds like the Turn signal switch may be in need of a rebuild. There are write-ups around here explaining how to rebuild them. Quite simple to do, just work over a towel so as to not lose parts. Clean the contacts, possibly bend the right turn signal contact back down where it needs to be, and use only a Very small amount of Dielectric grease on the contact where the ball bearing slides back and forth. After 36 years, things wear out and need to be rebuilt. The electronic flasher should take care of the rest. you can use a 3 pin flasher if you ground the neg. terminal. Or just use a regular 3 bulb electronic flasher. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40600 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23325 (Post #7 and on) Dave.

I decided to go with something different. When I was at the Pull-a-Part, I found a Porsche 944 with front bumper in tact and pulled the bumperettes? or what ever they are. I always liked the look of the 300ZX rear bumper area. If a Z gets hit from the rear, it's all over either way, so I might as well have it look the way I want before it gets hit. Right? So I also welded in new steel, license plate inset and LED loaded lenses. Should be cool, or at least different when I'm done. Dave

They work fine with the regular stock fan. I ran mine with the stock fan for months but went with the cool factor and better cooling Dual fan set-up. Still Plenty of clearance with the 2 core aluminum radiator. Hit the Buy button and get that car back together. Dave

R200 3:90 diff 79' 280ZX 5-speed 225/50ZR16's At 80mph, my tach is barely seeing 3000 RPM. Makes for Great Gas Milage on the freeway when doing 65 or 70 MPH. Like Frank says, It's all about mating the right Tranny with the right Rear-end. Dave

Stub Axle.

It's Never in Vein Rich. The respect a car deserves and the beauty of said car is all in the eye of the beholder. Not sure if I bring my Z(s) to classic car shows to Show them off, attract attension to the Z car scene or just to wizz off the American Muscle car crowd. But I do know that they ALWAYS get attension from both young and older folks who insist on telling me about a there previous Z, a friend or relative who had one or something along those lines. I parked near a BEAUTIFUL 32' or 23' T-Bucket Ford at a car show 2 years back. People walked right past it to my car, with a look of "Been there, seen that" on their face, about the Ford. While talking to most of them, I even pointed at the Ford and mentioned how nice it was, only for them to say "Ya, but it seems Every car show has 1, or 10 of them. But how often do people get to see a Nice Classic Z car" Keep your head up Rich. They Are accepted and will have their place soon enough. Trophies may even be involved at one point or another. Dave I took a shot of another Z I see at local show now and then.

Exactly. I don't mind an entrance fee. Hell, I pay $25 to enter the "Crusin to Colby, a local show that has next to no Japanese cars, with the exception of mine and MAYBE 2 other Z's, and it's only 10 miles away and I Never win anything cause "It's not a Hot-Rod" even though it easily gets just as many, if not more spectaters than the other cars. But I pay. If I can afford to drive a 2400 mile round trip, pay for a Hotel for 4 nights for 2 people, pay for food for a 7 day trip (2 days there, 2 days back and a 3 day event) and everything else that comes with it, I'm pretty sure that $30 or $40 dollar entry is Nothing, if not expected. I brought all that up with Greg when I spoke with him in Mid January. He seemed to like the idea but aparently, the plans were already in motion for a 1 day event. I won't do all (the above paragraph) for a 1 day BBQ. Oh well, maybe next year. Dave

No Key, No Key Fob or smart key. Works the same as your Altima. Press once to turn it on, press and hold the brake pedal down while pressing the Nissan Start button and it starts. Pressing it again shuts it off. I do not have the option of keeping the radio on till the door is open though. That can be mixed into the system but not really needed on my Z as I only listen to the radio when the car is running, for power reasons of coarse. When we've worked out the bugs, we will be offering this to the Z community. It'll include a Genuine Nissan Maxima/Altima Push button ignition switch, the Start box circuit, the Plug and Play Datsun Ign. harness (plugs right into your ign. connector, brake switch tap with bullets for an easy tap, parking light and door pin taps as well as the Tach input tap and wires (with a few options for getting the right signal to the box) Not sure on a price yet. We need to find out exactly what every cost of every part is going to be. Mix in some instructions, shipping costs and "Vuala" Done! It also has a simple grounding input from an alarm or toggle switch to make it a Nonfunctioning unit. and like most alarms, if you hit the button while the car is armed, it will not work and will set the alarm off (activate the alarm) Thanks, Glad you like it and Glad I made it home in one peice. Dave

Went To Brians house to reinstal the Start switch and box (Brian had to do a little tweeking on it) and as soon as I'm ready to go home, I get a call from the Wife, "Are you on your way home YET?" I say "ya, I'm ready to go, Why?" "Cause I can't see the road anymore and you're out in the Z. And we both know it don't wok in the snow" So I got 5 miles to get home and at one point, I clenched my butt so fast that I'm pretty sure I almost sucked my underwear off my body. And on another note, LSD diffs have NO advantage in the snow. If anything, it was worse. Clutches chattering from it trying to grab and let go. Not cool... So somehow, by the Grace of God and a little skill (hills and turns included) I made it in front of my house. And then I couldn't even get into my own garage. The damn driveway is about a 20* uphill slant. Do I had to park half way up and get my "Torchdown Roofing" torch out and Blast the snow enough to melt it and expose just a little asphalt. 5 minutes later and she's resting in the garage. Lesson learned, "If there's a chance that it'll snow while out in the Z, DON'T DO IT!!" Dave

Thanks to the 2 of you who actually ordered from Brian, He made sure to call and tell me he got 2 orders this week, and that I was mentioned We both appreciate it. He still has plenty left and it's a complete kit too. Link is in posts above, Thanks, Dave.

Disconnect the coil wire ignition switch off (Wide Open Throttle) Throttle open (Butterflies open) Carb Piston propped up so everything can breathe, thru the carb and butterflies) remove only the spark plug of the cylinder that you're testing, leave the others in. Spray some WD-40 down into the cylinder, thru the spark plug hole. Attach the compression tester, zero out the gauge. Use a starter motor jumper to engage the motor for about 3 seconds. write down your results, test again, write it down, then move on to the next cylinder after reinstalling the spark plug of the cylinder you just tested This is the way I tested mine, worked great. if anyone here sees something wrong in my instructions, PLEASE advise before he actually does the test. Dave

It's NOT for factory AC. It's a vaccum resevoir for the heater controls. it hold vaccum whether you have low or high vaccum due to RPM's. so the heater controls always have a constant vaccum to work with. Doors. Depends on the build date of the 260Z. I don't know where the cut off is on this, but I have a set of 70' 240Z doors on my early 260Z. the later 260Z's have? the stud on the frame that the door latch catches, as compared to the hook style from 69' to mid 74' The design of the door is basically the same but the latches change, as do the window regulators and internal reinforcements. Dave