Zs-ondabrain

I believe it will but I'd check wire colors and mounting plate for comparison. Check the above link to the forum on Hybrid for a little more clarity, lots of 280Z's over there and I'm sure someone has done one in a 280Z. You're quite welcome Ken, let us know when ya do and post your results. Thanks Mike, (Pop's Z) I'm already looking into it, I have access to the black box's, relays, and Datsun Plug and colored wires but I've yet to find a source for the Honda plug, other than the junk yard or Pull-A-Part. If I were to make a harness with the Datsun plug - black project box - wires and Butt connectors for the buyer to easily "Crimp" the adaptor harness to the connectorless Honda wiper motor harness, it would be a breeze to make and I'd have to charge at least $35 for the adaptor harness (without the Honda plug. I would also do my best to find a firewall boot to keep it looking stock or at least clean up the hole. ART.... If you need any other info, keep your eye on this forum and the one over at HybridZ (mentioned above) BARTH45657.... HO-HO-HO but seriously, I weigh about 130 on a good day so I'm too damn small to be Santa, But I appreciate the metaphor. Dave.

there should be a fusable link between the starter and the engine harness. Use an OHM's meter to make sure it's still good. Snug up the starter wire and make sure ALL of your grounds are tight and making good contact. The main ground wire should be to the right of the starter, above the engine harness, pull it grind the metal and re-attach it. That should give you a start on the road to recovery. Can't tell ya too much without the Year of Z you have. what year is it? Good luck, Dave.

All you had to do was remove the wipers, run the motor once and let it Park, then re-install the wipers. That way the motor is set at park and the wipers are too. Simple. See there, you keep complicating it, silly. No big deal though. Glad to hear it works though, Dave.

Did ya look at this one? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25857&highlight=fuel+tank+lines By the way, did ya wire up that harness for the wipers yet? If so, did it work? let me know what's up. Dave

Tired of the old SLOW and Tired wipers on your 240Z? Ya, Me too. SO I did some research on the subject over at HybridZ and found that for a few years now, people have been trying to use the 94' Accord and 91' Civic wiper motors as a replacement to the Datsun wiper motor that ONLY like to move if the window is WET... So I read every thread and post on the subject to find out as much as possible. All I found was pictures and posts by people saying that "it works great BUT..... The wiper does'nt PARK when you turn the switch to OFF. You have to shut the wiper switch off at the EXACT moment to get the blades to sit in the usual DOWN position. So I went to the junk yard and pulled a 91' Honda Civic wiper motor, brought it home and tore the gear/contact cover off to find what made it click and Also to find why nobody, after 4 years, could get the wiper to "PARK" I wrote everything down that I saw, put it back together and studied the their wiring diagrams and my diagrams. So I wire up the wiper the way everyone else had been doing it for a few years and started tesing each and every wire. I discovered what they had missed and decided to wire up a relay, the way I thought it should be, to get the wipers to "PARK" and then gave it some power. Slow speed worked great, high speed worked even better. So I kicked it back down to slow then crossed my fingers and turn the switch off. It spun a little before the relay kicked in, then it finished it's rotation and stopped exactly where it should have. So I did it a bunch of times and it stopped in the exact same spot every time. So in other words, I seem to have fixed the problem that plagued people who have done the conversion before. Below is everything you'll need to know about putting in a 91' Honda Civic wiper motor into your 240Z. I've done the conversion and it's FRICKEN AWESOME!!! The first time I tried the wipers was in my garage on a DRY window with NEW wiper blades. I made a video of it for any unbelievers and also to show how the OFF position Parks the blades at the end of the rotation. So here's some more good news, the Datsun wiper motor mounting screws work on the Honda motor AND the Datsun wiper arm bracket will slide right onto the Honda motor shaft without modification. When you go to the Pull-A-Part, SAVE THE BOLTS and the NUT & WASHER. If you buy the motor at the Auto Parts Store, it will NOT normally come with bolts or the bracket mounting nut. Here is the Short list of needed items....... 1) 91' Honda wiper motor (make sure to unplug the motor and also remove the female end from the honda with at least 6 to 8 inches of wire past the female plug, you'll need the female end if you wanna make a custom adaptor type harness) I paid $6.50 at the local Pull-A-Part, Schucks Auto Supply wanted about $100. Go Used. 1) 20/30 amp 12 volt relay from the auto parts store (usually about $5.00) 1) 6-terminal Datsun Plug (exactly like the one on your Datsun wiper motor, or Voltage regulator or pre 3/73' Combo switch on the harness side. I sell these and the terminals if you would like to make a brand new adaptor for your conversion The other possibility is to Cut off your plug and wires from your Datsun Wiper motor, it's up to you. You can even Hard wire the Honda motor in if you'd like. 70' Datsun 240Z __________________ 91' Honda civic wiper motor blue/white-------pin 86 ________ Pin 87A-------blue/white blue-------------pin 87 ________ pin 30--------blue Blue/red-----------pin 85-------pin 85----------green/black Black----------------------to------------------black Blue/yellow----------------to-------------------blue/yellow ________________________________________________________ Here are the pics for drilling the Datsun wiper Plate, notching the plate to seat the Honda motor correctly, and that's it. 5 small cuts, 3 small holes. If you have any questions and don't mind reading alot more, check out this link for every single detail. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82292 After the New Honda Motor is installed in your Z, turn the wipers on once or twice to 1) Make sure the motor is working correctly and running and 2) to Park the wiper studs in the right position before installing the wiper blades. Feel free to ask questions here, post results, share added info (other years and models of Honda wiper motors that are identical etc.) Dave. Datsun to Honda wiper diagram.bmp This post has been promoted to an article

White face gauge kit paint the back side of each gauge face metal plate Chrome (spray paint chrome-auto parts store) My parking light upgrade harness (does'nt make these LED's that much brighter but sure helps everything else) http://superbriteleds.com/ the BA9S white wide angle LED's(100 degree viewing angle)

Sounds like Christmas After Christmas thing. Can't wait for Christmas to be over, for many reasons. But I always look forward to wills gifts. Dave.

send me one clock or the scan of one or even just the face. I'll convert it and email it back. etc etc. Dave.

what's wrong with the wipers? Switch or motor? Dave.

B/W photo Reflective 1200 DPI 100%scan I don't know what the rest is but here's a picture of my monitor with the scanner up. I used a basic program for playing with the pics. Presto Image Folio. It's an older one but it works. Dave.

No hole, but it was easy to pull it from the back side enough to align the sticker, then release it and it peirced the vinyl. It's a spring steel needle and there should be enough flex to pull it out of the way. But you're right about the EL being punctured by the needle but if it's punctured one and maybe a dab of silicone on each side before you poke it will stop the enviromental issue. But then again, the wire is grounded thru the chassis and may also cause bigger problems. Tough call and I hate to see you waste one just to see if it would be a problem or not. But the whole Idea of the Stock Z gauges being EL would be Awesome. I guess you need to find an EL specialist who can tell you if peircing it with a grounded needle would be a big issue or not. And if it is an issue, maybe a needle could be molded to the inner case and come to an end, resting on the face of the gauge.?? Maybe. Dave.

I wrote a letter to the supply guy at Presslabel.com and he wrote back saying he'd send me 1 or 2 sheets of the White Laser Vinyl Adhesive Film, Free of charge. So I should have a decent sample to see if it's worth buying a 50 pack (8.5"x 11") at $35.00 I have to pull my clock again to fix something so I'll scan it and work on the white face conversion. Then when the samples show up I'll shoot out a sample in the Ink Jet but I'm gonna start looking for a decent priced Laser Jet printer, but only if I decide to go balls to the wall with the white face project. I'm sure that the finished product itself will pay for the Vinyl and printer. But this also means I'll have to pull every gauge again and scan it. I like the old font on the original gauges but that's not a problem cause I just convert black to white and vise versa. So Will and Gary, Would the rally clock be any different than what is pictured on the 1st post of the "white face " forum. If so and it's the same as the MSA version then we're good to go. Dave.

I like the gauges well lit but also try and shy away from brite and annoying. Nothing worse than trying to drive with your gauges blinding you or distracting you from the road. Like I said though, maybe 2 LED's, in the right place to slightly brighten up the dark areas only. Without over doing it. I have to remove the Speedometer anyways cause it says I'm doing 50 when I'm doing 30. This could take a few try's to get it right again. Dave.

After you get or make the brackets..... Pioneer and Kenwood both make "Slim Line" speakers for shallow areas like the rear of the 240Z. I have the Pioneers because I liked the sound of them better, when listening to the demos at the local stereo shop. I personally made a reverse replica of the drivers side out of 1/8" ABS plastic. The plate does'nt need to be heavy duty or anything like that because the speaker is light weight and won't be jolted or slammed like a door speaker would. I also used a butter lid on the back of the right speaker to reduce the chance of sharp edges rubbing the hoses. Just in case. I think I paid about $40 after tax for my 5 1/4 Pioneers. Dave

Thanks, but it's more like "DA' Cheap MAN" Just tired of spending money on things I know I can do myself. ya know? It turns out that the lighting in the Speedometer was crappy, cause whoever built it in the first place, Painted half of the green lense when the inside was painted at the factory. Even after removing the grren plastic lense, painting the underside of the face silver chrome and installing the 2) LED's, the lighting still sucks. I think the next thing I'll do is add 2 more of the LED's inside the Speedometer shell, aimed at the dark spots that are aparent in the 4th picture. Thanks again, I'm going for a drive RIGHT NOW!!. Dave.

Arne, check your Comcast mail. let me know if it's something you could Zip or post or whatever. Dave.

Call me impatient, but I got tired of waiting for MSA or Jason to at least acknowledge my emails. So I whipped out the OLD scanner and scanned both the 8/70 Z Speedo plate and the MSA white face speedo sticker. 25,000 megapixels later, I saved it to my portable memory stick and took it upstairs to the good computer. Fired up the Presto Image Folio and opened her up to make my own damn white face gauge. So 8 hours of staring at the monitor and a slight case of Carpol tonno? I changed all the black to white and the white to black, erased the KPH crap that ya never read anyway, erased the names and numbers cause if I wanted all that, I would'nt be sitting in front of a monitor for 8 flippen hours. So I finished it, resized it, and printed it on a piece of card stock I had sitting around for my business cards. Cut it out, cut out the mounting and odometer holes, brake and HI beam light holes and put it onto the Metal Speedo plate. Perfect fit. Every thing is "On the Money" cause it essencially was exact to begin with, just needed a little help turning to white with black. here are some shots of it in and out of the car. I used that real thin membrane 2 sided tape to mount it to the face. But I will be looking for a small pack of the adhesive backed 3 mil vinyl I posted a link about earlier in this thread. Dave. I can't upload the printable gauge face cause..... " Your file is currently 5100 x 5172." and it won't let me. I can email it but that's it. The first picture is of the Speed hole and the SuperBriteLED.com LED's

Mine were matt finish but I polished the hell out of them and now they are polished Stainless steel. Makes al the difference. Dave.

Unfortunately, when it comes to the Z, I care. That's probably what gets me in so much trouble. But the fact that I want the speedo to be correct will help keep me OUT of trouble (with the law) I've only had one ticket in the Z and that's because I was on a back road after getting the new KYB's and Eibachs? installed. I was ripping around a 25 MPH corner at about 60 MPH and he washeaded towards the same corner, coming from the other way. I had NO time to slow down. Needless to say, He loved the car and only gave me a 10 over the limit ticket. $101 that I would have rather put in the gas tank and other areas of the car. I may build and put on some weird stuff on the car but it's pretty close to exact or precise. Dave. I wrote Jason but have yet to hear back from him and the car is still missing the speedo and it's in a box on the table. I need to put it back together but would much rather have the white face on it first. I don't care about sticky residue as it'll never be back to black after I install the white faces on there.

It was pretty basic. I took the emptied clock shell into Value Village (ie: GoodWill, dollar store or Volunteers of America) and asked if they had battery operated clocks. They had plenty for $1.99 each, so I bought 2 (some peoples garbage is just that, did'nt want to take a chance on just one) I took the outer shell off the actual clock, removed the seconds, minutes, hour and alarm hand. I then removed the Paper clock face and used "Goof-Off" to remove the adhesive residue. I test fitted the body to the back of the Z's clock face and found that the lip that normaly acts as a "Stop" on the Z' clock was stopping the battery clock from getting close enough to the face to attach it with double sided tape (very thin, used for attaching with minimal space between the objects) So I used the grinder to remove the small lip and then attached the clock to the face. I used the Battery clocks hands because they were a close match to the Z's hands and I knew they would fit already. I aligned the adjuster knob (clock set knob) with the hole that the power wires originally went thru, when attaching the clock to the face. I then attaches very small red and black wires to the battery holder clips on the clock and ran those thru another small hole in the back of the shell. I bought a single AA battery holder from radio shack and attach the wires together using very small telephone wire butt connectors (20 to 18 gauge) I also found that the clocks time is easily adjusted using the stock "Push Knob" that already exists on the face of the original clock.

actually they do make the 60- to 60+ amp gauge sticker and it is sent with the white face gauge set I ordered along with the 45+/- set. And the other thing is the oil pressure is 145 on mine and they only sent a 90 degree one. as pictured below. I guess I should have payed more attension to the picture and not "ASSUMED" they would have or send the correct set, AND THEY EVEN ASK WHAT YEAR MAKE AND MODEL WITH BUILD DATE, THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN their CLUE.

I just found this and now I'm getting tempted to do the series 1 gauges and if it's good enough, well.....maybe. http://www.presslabel.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PSP-WLV8511&Category_Code=Waterproof&Store_Code=PL

I had written him last year after some jerk outbit me for a set 3 seconds before the auction was up (I HATE THAT!!) We never completed any transaction and I lost his email address. Anyways, Thank you for his updated email, I wrote him about an hour ago and hope to hear from him soon. My speedo is in peices in a box and would look so much better if it were complete and in the car, ya know. Thanks again. You'd think MSA would have all 3 available, considering how many early models are still out here. Dave.