Zs-ondabrain

Guess who needs a new hood and grill? If you still have the grill, I could really use it now. PM me if it's still available. Got hit by a small Mazda Truck tonight. Dave

If you have an ohms meter, check the wire that comes from the back of the alternator to the harness.. Ocassionally, the wire is actually a fusable link, which were present on some 240Z's. Give your wires a tug. Some wires can burn on the inside of the sheath and still look like an intact wire. The ohms meter will tell you the same thing. Some glass fuses look totaly good until you test them and find that the solder has flowed away from the fuse from overheating. The problem is with the alternator and its wires, somewhere. Dave.

Pay off US Bank account for me, for crying out loud. Banks can kiss my arse, the only thing they're good for is cashing checks and that's about it. Dave.

I had to custom built the linkage and rearrange the float bowls to work with the set-up. It was just too much carb for my stock 2.4 liter. I used 2 of the SU's on another set-up and the third was just for parts.

Ztheropy could answer that and it's been answered here nay a time. Use the search button and I promise you'll find it. Z theropy had one and so did I. picture below. It's also been said to NOT do it cause the Stock SU's are more than enough, even for a well built L series motor. These were mine before I sold the intake manifold, which was custom made using SU intakes. 3 intakes were used to make the one. 2 balance tubes were made into one long one.

Don't worry bout calling early, My Dad is a Louisianna Man and 5 AM is mid-morning for him, I'm used to it. As for the broken plastic, Go to the auto parts store and get some 5 minute plastic Epoxy. Mix up a little and goop it on to the broken stub. Let it fully cure for at least 24 hours before using it again. Don't be afraid to put too much on there, it'll grab on to the plastic and reinforce the rest. Lots of weak plastic in a Z so keep some of that epoxy around for minor boo-boos. I'll try and get your order out as soon as possible for ya. Thanks again, Dave.

Let me be the first to welcome ya to the site, You should be able to find EVERYTHING you need via the search button and thru members. If you lurked around and finally wrote a post, you've obviously stayed for a reason. You'll also find great upgrade products here at the site as well. I personally do a lot of electrical upgrades for the 240Z's. Headlight and parking light upgrade harness's, alternator upgrades, Combo and Turn signal rebuild services, LED taillight conversions, and the newest one is the Side marker conversion plugs. The SCP plugs turn your front side markers into dual action parking lights and blinkers with the instal of a simple plug on each side of the car. Anyways, welcome, I've been here for over four years and check in all the time. Dave.

The CTS Service is when you send me your combo switch and Turn Signal switch and I completely rebuild them and make them as new as possible for you. 34+ years of turning and flipping the lights on and off tend to wear them out. So I tear them apart, rebuild them, replace parts if needed, reassemble them and test weverything before sending them back to you. $45 in the US and $60 for orders outside the US, like Canada. When you figure in the price of NEW or Remanufactured switches ($100 and up, EACH) it's not a bad deal at all. Dave. P.S. Did you get your order in the mail yet? Beautiful Z by the way.

Typically, about 2 or 3 hundred thousand miles. You won't hear of too many people changing them out unless they are upgrading the motor. Dave.

The ZXP is the 280ZX alternator adaptor for installing the 60 AMP internally regulated 280ZX alternator into a 240Z. It's only $15 and Arne got me to do the prototype on that as well as the SCP (Sidemarker Conversion Plug) The Headlight Relay Upgrade harness is known as the HLH ($125) The Parking light relay Upgrade Harness is the PLH.($45) The Combo/turn signal service is known as the CTS ($45) The ZXP as mentioned above is ($15) The Taillight LED Conversion is the TLC and it's ($250) The Sidemarker conversion is the SCP ($25) It's always easier to give a short 3 letter name when the products keep piling up. Makes the shorthand esier as well. Dave.

You obviously have great spark. Could your timing be too far advanced? Mine did it the other day, Just after I advanced the timing 5 degrees. Dave.

Any takers? If these sell good enough, I'll be making a few purchases here at CZC or just contribute to the site. Which I think we all should do, when ever we are at a point that it'll help without hurting. Now that I think of it, I, of all people should be throwing more money this way. When I think of all the invaluable info I've gotten from this site and it's members, It makes me wonder where I'd be without it. THANKS MIKE!!! As I was sying, Any takers. I've already got 5 orders lined up. Dave.

Dave P ( d-phlip here on CZC ) lives in Roseburg, OR and so does ViperredLS1Z (on HybridZ) They would know before I would but there ya go. Dave.

And here is Arne's Forum for those who would like more info on the subject. The picture of the SCP's are in post #2 of the link. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=28729

OK OK here it is....... I've discussed it with Arne and here's what we have decided to do. The SCP is TOTALLY Arnes's Brainchild. He may not be the inventor as I've seen it done elsewhere but It was Arne who got with me and discussed a prototype strictly for the 240Z's. The New Product is called the SCP which is short for Sidemarker Conversion Plug. It consist of 2) "T" type harness's that are only about 2.5" long and are placed into your parking light plug (in front of the radiator) via OEM style Datsun Plugs, just like my Headlight Upgrade Harness and there is one SCP per side. One for the left sidemarker and one for the right sidemarker. The SCP order will consist of 2) conversion plugs, one per side, and a single wire per SCP with a female bullet connector that connects into one of 2 the sidemarker wires located near each parking light plug, on each side.. This is an easy instal and takes less than 10 minutes. The only thing that will slow you down is dirty wires and the lack of being able to see what color your sidemarker wires are. Other than that, it's a breeze to instal. The important part of the instal is making sure that each of your sidemarkers must be isolated from the body. As Arne mentioned earlier, "They will only work on 240Zs with normal bulbs (not LEDs), and the sidemarker housing MUST be properly insulated from the fender. So the metal reflector must be inserted into the groove in the big rubber base gasket, not mounted between the gasket and the body (as I've seen done on some cars)" The price is $25 I will be making them for Arne and paying him from the money I recieve from the orders. But your cash, check or money order needs to be sent to me along with the order. I DO NOT AND CANNOT ACCEPT PAYPAL. Canadian orders, please add $5 to the $25 price. All other orders outside the continental US, please email me first. Please Email me with your questions and for ordering info. For all those who have ordered a Headlight or Parking light Upgrade harness or even a ZXP (Arnes other baby) or any of my other upgrades or services, the address is still the same, the form of payment is the same and the orders will be send Via USPS First Class Mail. First class will be used in order to keep prices down. If you would like your order shipped using Priority mail, there will be another $5 added to the $25 price. I've also decided on a $2 discount for each order of 2 or more. (2 orders will be $46, 3 orders will be $69, etc, etc.) Please Keep in mind that not only do these add the "Cool factor" but will seriously increase the SAFETY Factor while being used. Drivers to your left and right WILL see your sidemarkers blink and this will decrease the chance of a "I did'nt know he was turning" excuse. Not to "TOOT" my own horn but these are a great compliment to my Parking light harness. As your side markers will be brighter after installing my parking light harness, the SCP will now make that brighter sidemarker blink, increasing the "Visability Factor of you and Your Z. Period. PLH info is in my signature. Dave w/ quotes and help from Arne.

I guess I should have mentioned the moisture trap that I use on the tank as well as the inline Plastic moisture and particle filter just outside of the cabinet. I too get my media from Harbor Freight. Hey Barby27, Next time you're gonna be up north around Marysville, shoot me an email and feel free to stop by. Dave.

I actually have 2 sandblasters. I have a 3 Cubic foot plastic bench top cabinet. And the second is a 6 Cubic foot metal cabinet on a 30" roll around base for getting it out of the way when I'm done with it. The plastic has glass bead media and the metal one has Aluminum Oxide for ripping rust out of everything. I set the pressure at no less than 100 PSI and max of 125 PSI. The high pressure kicks arse but turns my media into dust alot faster than low pressure would. Aluminum gets the glass media and steel gets the Oxide. Nice thing is that I can use the glass media on the tail light housings when I'm doing an LED conversion (not the lenses) to remove the exhaust stains, rust from the housing nuts, and overspray from untaped paint jobs. They usually look alot better than without the use of media. Dave.

I too turned my side markers into alternating blinkers when the parking lights are on. I have LED side markers, which do not allow mine to operate like Arne's but the do the "Alternating Flash" when the parking lights are on and do nothing when the parking lights are off. It's because the LED's are one way diodes. Regular incondescent bulbs work both ways (positive on the base or on the tip) So I have to use a relay to make mine work like they do. The Great thing about Arne's Upgrade plug is that it plugs right in without damge to wiring or anything else, and if you don't want it that way anymore, just remove the upgrade plug and you're back to stock. Great Idea Arne!! Wish I had thought of it. How much for a set of those (Left and right)? Dave.

His Z has points, aftermarket plug wires and I did'nt check the plug brand while I was there working on his headlights. His choke cables are missing the cable clamp so they engage fine but may not dissengage as easy. It's my guess that the carbs need a good going thru. If I get a chance this week, I'll head out his way and check the carb oil, needles, his fuel filter and timing. Roughly, he's a teenager who's siked about getting his Z on the road and may be in a bit of a hurry to put in the time and patience that his Z needs. Wednesday I have 4 harness's to make, Thanksgiving is thursday, Friday is the day of Digestion (OH YES, I will eat TOO much turkey) and I have Adams 280Z coming out to my house on Saturday for a headlight upgrade harness that'll be hard-wired in. Maybe sunday, like we did earlier this week. I'll bring the 20 weight, Dave.

The Z's little toys (Radiator - ZX Alternator - car stuff in general) GAS, Can you believe this crap? ($3.15 at the moment) 5 Kids (ages 8 - 9 - 12 - 14 - 16) still growing and needing crap) Wife with severe bordem complex and a new Hobby of Beads and beadwork. But I would spend every last penny on her anyways. Suppliers jacking their prices of harness parts. And the price of copper going up And soon it'll be Christmas, Damnit

About the only engine ground you'll find on a 72' 240Z is the ground lead coming off the alternator. The negative cable from your battery should also be going to the top starter bolt. This is an old picture, I've updated the ground wires in my engine compartment. I now have 4 gauge wires going from the engines motor mount bolt to the cross member bolt, one from the starter bolt the the #6 exhaust port bolt, and a new one from the negative battery clamp to the (stock)firewall bolt location. And finally put another one from the starter bolt to the stock harness grounding location (across from the starter and below the battery. In the second picture, you'll barely see a silver 4 ga wire between the motor mount and and strut bar. and you can barely make out the one that goes behind the head towards the rear exhaust bolt. The more the better and the grounds to the head area will help reduce the electrolisis in the cooling system, which we all know destroys heads from the inside out.

Unplug the parking light fuse, turn the headlights on (and nothing else) disconnect the battery, and put the test leads on the battery clamp and the battery terminal. (if your meter has Amp check capability) That should tell you what the headlights are trying to pull. Another way is to pull the parking light fuse and one of the headlight fuses, test between the fuse clamps of the headlight fuse. the reason for pulling the parking light fuse is to keep the parking lights from giving you a false reading because you can't have the headlights on without the parking lights being on at the same time. Clean all of the grounds that bolt to the body, clean the battery posts and terminals, pull the headlight plugs and try and clean all terminals with a small jewelers file and electrical spray. Coat everything with a light film of di-electric grease (bulb grease-available at the auto parts store) The grease will keep water and oxygen from getting between the contacts and causing corrosion. Dave. Sblake1... Note to self...learn to accept or take money from friends, relatives and neighbors.

So I made a trip out to matts house today and found out where he got the name Rust Bucket. Anyways, The wiring is shot and the switches need to be rebuilt (by me if he can't figure it out) we finally got 12 volts to the headlight plugs but barely 1 amp worth. Luckily, my upgrade harness only requires .250 amps to transfer power from the battery to the headlights. Plugged in my relay harness, kicked on the combo switch and TAH-DAH!! lights galore. so now he has lights but the switches really need to be rebuilt. Don't forget to keep the grounds clean and grounded well. That's the biggest problem with almost every 240Z that has electrical problems. Was great to meet ya today Matt. Beleive it or not, I had fun fixing your Z and your chokes (whole nuther story) becasue fixing stuff is what makes me happy. Getting paid is number 2 on the list. Now if I can get JonnyRock to come down on Sunday from Bellingham, I can fix another one and make it a full week of working on Z's. Dave.

That's almost an easy question Lazeum. You need a "Tach Adaptor" Both Mallory and MSD make one. The tach in the Z's have a resistor and it makes it tough to get a tach to work after installing an electronic box like MSD 6A or the Mallory. The red 2" X 2" box above my MSD 6A is an MSD tach adaptor. Summit and Jegs sell them. Jegs part number is 121-8910 and it's about $50

I built one for my 240 about 4 years ago. I've also built a couple others based on the same design. Make a small cardboard or MDF box to cover the spare tire mounting bracket. Tape it down to the wheel well. Layer the whole wheel well with aluminum foil and tape it off so NO fiberglass resin will leak out into the wheel well metal. Coat the whole thing with resin and hand lay at least and 1/8" to 3/16" of matt in there. Make sure to leave at least 2 inches uncoated and hanging over the outer edge, This 2 inches will be resin'd to the top plate that you'll make out of 5/8" MDF. the wheel well airspace is sufficiant for 2) low Q 12" subs or 2) high volume 10" subs. I have a 12" MTX in mine but my box is a 2/3's box. which leaves enough room for the amp to set beside the enclosure, inside the wheel well. I also have a tool rack on top of the amp, never had a problem with over-heating. I built mine level with the lower lip and that allows a 1/4" plate (wheel well cover) to still fit on top properly. Then cut a hole for the sub to peek thru.