Zs-ondabrain

Well DUH. If someone else is "Tooting " my horn, she better be hot and willing to go both ways, or my wife will get mad..... LOL That's my 15 minutes of fame right there. I gotta re-live it as much as possible. Dave.

Even with that explaination form MSA, That does'nt explain why your Z is different from theirs. How big of a shim are you using under the mount plates? I had a similar problem with mine but all I did was put a washer under each plate to off set the bar just enough to lift it ever so slightly off the valve cover. At first, I just slid a 1/8" peice of rubber between the valve cover and the bar. I still have a slight dent in the valve cover from when it would "rub" against the cover. Dave

don't forget about "Forza MotorSport 2" They did sound bites of my Z for the Highly modified 69' Fairlady Z in the game. here's the link for your reading pleasure... It's about four pages long, with pictures YEAH http://forzamotorsport.net/news/dynospotlights/dyno06-1.htm Dave.

I too used the Eibach progressive rate lowering springs with my KYB struts and Love the feel and ride. It dropped about 1 1/2" and most people tell me that it has a great lowered profile. The tires are 225/50R16's but Mine is a 240Z so the ride may be different on your 280Z. Dave. Some will tell you not to mix the Eibach's and KYB's but I've never had a problem.

I'll deal with that crap everytime I post on craigslist. They always want to purchase the "ITEM" yet they never say what the "ITEM" is. You mentioned all the signs to look for.. ITEM Cashiers Check Their own shipping company Good Day Sir etc, etc. Location and final asking price. Pretty much all the above are mentioned in a Scam email. hit the 'ol SPAM button and move on. Dave.

It's posts like this that make me happy.. Glad to hear ya figured it out and she's purring like a lion again. I love the lopy cam sound. I have a 480/270 cam and when she's warmed up, she sounds like a small block chevy, minus the dual exhaust. Congrats on the fix. Dave.

OK. so the picture from the first post (#1) shows the fuel line going to the frame rail on the drivers side, follow that and see if you can find a filter and then change it. If you can't find one. Install one filter per fuel line before they get to the carbs and you should be safe till the next problem arrises. That's one hell of a set-up so you might wanna be patient with it. Dave. PS you can almost see how the float bowl tubes should be in the picture below....

I guess I'm young enough to still like the "Bling Bling" stuff when I pop the hood. I LOVE polished aluminum, painted parts, Stainless Steel braided hoses, and lots of other well placed shiny things. and the latest add... a 3 large core Griffen Racing Aluminum radiator with upper and lower supports made by me cause it was a custom install. $425 all together.

Your first problem is in the picture you posted..... The breather hoses for the float bowls are connected to each other. I corrected it with white lines in the photo below... Your carbs CANNOT BREATHE with the float bowls connected to each other. The second problem is "Where the hell is your fuel line?" Follow the fuel lines from the carbs. They are supposed to go to a fuel rail that wraps around the valve cover and over to the fuel filter where you pointed out "is missing" Find the fuel lines and get a filter on there. Take off those hoses on the carb and air cleaner box and put them from the float bowls into the airbox via the nipples. get back to us when that's done and the fuel problem is corrected. Can't help any more till that's done.

That is Beautiful....... Nuff said. Dave.

so in other words.... The hose in your hand in pic #1 should'nt be plugged and should go to the left nipple in pic #2. The right float bowl should also have a hose going from the outlet to the right nipple in pic #2. If the hoses are plugged or blocked off, the fuel cannot flow into the carbs. Change the fuel filter and the oil while you're at it. ONLY use NGK plugs and wires and renew the cap and rotor every once in a while with NISSAN parts. (Nippendenso) works just as good. Fuel and spark are the number one priorities in troubleshooting a "won't Start" Z. Good luck, Dave

even better would be.... What year Z is it? This makes all the difference in troubleshooting.. The 240Z's have a Green with a white stripe wire that controls all the taillights in the rear. This wire lights up the rear sidemarkers, licence plate lights and the parking lights in the taillight assemblies. Test the green/white wire at the rear on the right where it comes into the back. If there is nothing there, trace it up into the upper right kick panel where it should still be green/white. if the front ones work, it's NOT the fuse. but a connection near the right kick panel. Dave.

that goes to a fuel injected 280Z or ZX. it would normall go in front of the radiator support (in bewteen the radiator and the front grill) won't work on your car but clean and sell it to a 280 owner. Dave.

I'd try Zhome.com and go from there. A lot of up to date info and Carl should be able to clarify the authenticity of the 77 260Z? Make sure to use our "Search" button, we got a little of everything. Dave

kinda off subject but DAMN Darbji, you keep getting hotter with every photo. Anyways, Back on track. Like Red Dog said, work somewhere anywhere, don't give up yer baby. lose the truck or something. good luck man, Dave.

well at least all that crap is in the filter and not the floats or worse. Glad to hear ya figured it out. Dave.

First, congrats on finding one of the best Z car sites on the web. We're proud enough to brag but not to proud to share any info we can. What kinda miles are on the old ladys ZX? If you have a chance to get the 76' RHD, DO IT!!! they are pretty rare in the states and could be worth a pretty penny later down the road when ya fix her up. In the US, 260Z's were only offered in 74' but I keep seeing 76' RHD 260Z's alot in articles and such. The 280Z's were only available from 75' to 78' in the states, as far as I know. You also said "Any direction and advice would be great, if not, no worries, still happy to be here." what advice or direction are ya looking for? Upgrades, motor, suspension, what? we need specifics in order offer help. Welcome, Dave.

Like Tom said, look for a 2 wire plug that has a black wire and a red with a blue stripe wire. That's the plug ya want. Get another dimmer switch and try that. If it works with the new one, the old one was bad. Your best bet is to retrac your steps, when you unplugged everything, ya had to unplug something. Keep going. And besides, the more ya dig the more ya know and you'll be a big help to the next guy who has the same problem. Cause ya been there. Dave.

Sounds like one hell of a year Stacy. Sorry we fell out of touch for a while there but I'm happy to see your back. Life is what you make it from day to day so please keep your chin up and your eyes open, or life will pass ya by. Leah had all of her teeth removed this monday so she's getting used to learning how to re-say all her "S" words. She swore she'd stay indoors untill her dentures were made but she's learning that people love her with or without teeth. Give me a buzz sometime at the old email address (wolfin32z ) and we'll catch up. Dave.

the dimmer is usually located under the Tach but I know 240Z's, not 260Z's. I can imagine that it would plug into the Speedo, on any car. The plugs have to be there somewhere. keep looking. good luck, Dave.

I'd have to say that the solid is the earlier. Datsun probably found that the hollow was more affordable to make and conformed to the body easier than the solid one, so they changed it. Any one else??