Zs-ondabrain

I not only HAVE that peice in my garage but it's in GREAT shape. Might be a little discolored (not perfect) but on top of that, I also have the VR and a 240Z alternator and I'd sell all 3 as a package for $50 if someone was interested. That guy needs a clue. Think he can but one for $89.? not likely. Dave.

Holy Crap Fatman!! He also mentions that his company does T/S and combo switch repairs as well as harness restore and repair. But if he's gonna charge $90 fricken dollars for a peice of plastic that most people could give a rats arse about, I DON'T EVEN WANNA KNOW WHAT HE'S GONNA CHARGE FOR THE SAME SERVICE THAT I DO FOR ONLY $40 I could probably by new tires and wheels for a combo switch service from him. Nice try though. Dave

BUMP..... ANYONE. The manual says I'm not supposed to even drive the car without air horns. But I do it any ways. SO if you have them, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE contact me. Dave.

I too have the ceramic coated headers from MSA. They dissapate heat quicker after shut-down (engine off). If under hood temps are lower, it's because the wind from moving the vehicle, is allowed to cool the headers more efficiently with ceramic than other coatings. I can touch my header alot sooner after shut-down than I could with the steel header on there. If I am just sitting there, idling, the engine bay temps rise pretty quickly. I don't remember it getting as hot as fast with the steel header. but I could be wrong. Dave.

this is what Arne was talking about. http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/extras/alt-adapt.html It's easy to do (about 15 minutes) and the only wiring needed is unbolting the power wires from the alternator, unplugging the "t" plug, installing the ZX alt. and reconnecting all of 2 wires and 1 "T" plug. Then disconnect the Voltage regulator, remove it from the car, Install my ZXP (adaptor plug that is the brainchild of Arne) into the plug that the VR was plugged into and your done. All the order info is on there, so write me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com if you're interested in upgrading. Dave. PS. Thanks again Arne. Ya know I can't say that enough.

Just gonna throw this is, don't know what ya wanna do with it..... When I first installed my headlight harness, the ammeter would kick over to the + side of the guage. It would go even further towards the + when I kicked in the foglights. This told me that because the power was being drawn directly from the battery, while the alternator was pushing current into the amp meter, the flow was positive and showing so on the meter. THEN, I added the ZX alternator and the effect was essentially the same. But then the power wire from the alt. started to overheat and melted the connector boot near the alternator. So I ran an 8 guage wire from the alternator to the starter. whiel keeping the opther Stock wire intact. The meter no longer moves irradically when the lights, fog lights and amp is turned on (stereo) I'm guessing it's because I pretty much bypassed the meter by adding the 8 ga. wire directly to the starter which goes to the battery. It does move, ever so slightly, to the (-) if I turn everything on at once (stereo, lights, fog lights and fan) but the fan is the only thing on the fusebox side so go figure. My harness's all but eliminate the major power draws from the fusebox so there is very little for the ammeter to justify moving any more. FWIW Dave.

I think they are 8mm 1.25 studs X 45 or 50mm long I just bought new studs for the intake I just built, pictured above. Dave

Technically, you're supposed to put it as high as possible when mounting it. That helps the liquid get back to the radiator with less trouble when the radiator requires more fluid. JM2CW, Dave. PS. I have one that I got a the local Schucks Auto Supply. this one is from Napa http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7304514&Description=Radiator+Coolant+Reservoir+-+Universal

www.NWDE.org (NorthWest Datsun Enthusiast) www.Northwestnissans.com www.ZCCW.org (Z Car Club of Washington) http://personal.my180.net/rond/nwdoa.htm (NorthWest Datsun Owners Association) NWDOA Those should get ya started. Dave. Marysville, WA .98270 And if you own a 240Z, check out the links below.

You presume correctly. How are those switches working out for ya? You might even want to run a relay on that choke. Just for safety sake. 1) power wire from the battery to terminal 87 2) wire from terminal 30 to the choke 3) terminal 85 to a ground (most likely the same metal where you mount the relay, on the firewall?) 4) terminal 86 to an ignition wire or to the ignition it self. Any 4 or 5 prong relay rated at 20 or more amps Dave.

The 280ZX alternator is from the 81' to 83' 280ZX and available at almost every Auto Parts store for about $80. Give or take a few dollars. Dave.

The ZXP (280ZX alternator adaptor plug) is $15 and available thru me. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com where I'll email the payment and shipping info to ya. Here's a link to the Info that Arne posted a while ago. He is the inventor, I am the manufacturer. http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/extras/alt-adapt.html I love my ZX alternator, it puts out 60 amps as aposed to the 40 amps and old regulator of the stock 240Z. I have H4 headlights, 800 watts in the stereo system, power windows and locks, and a full MSD/Mallory ignition system. The alternator NEVER fails to supply the needed power. Dave.

Also try wiggling your emergency flasher switch. All turn signal and brake wire run thru that switch (usually on the dash) to the right of the tach. Also, the brakes run thru the blinker switch and are cancelled by the turn signal switch and diverted to the blinker module. If you have access to another turn signal for your Z, swap it out and see if that works. I am the guy that rebuilds the turn signal and combo switches for all 240Z owners. If you think they need to be rebuilt, I can do this for ya. I charge $40 for servicing and rebuilding the pair. If you have any questions or would like the service, feel free to contact me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com Here are some links for info... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24304&highlight=combo+switch+t%2Fs+service This guy tried everything then finally sent his switches to me for repair. Check out post number 18, after he got them back. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27474&highlight=c%2Fs&page=2 Also check out the info links in my signature below, Dave.

I put it in the classified section. http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2122 As is for $450 Heatsheild is additional $25 Shipping Via USPS priority Mail (2-3 Day) $25 Thanks for looking, Dave

I don't know exactly what comes with a Z-THERAPY kit but I know that they charge about $600 for just 2 carbs and linkage. I am selling these. they are 4 screw S.U.'s that I've completely bebuilt. They have been torn down and rebuilt using only the BEST parts I had. ANything that was not complete clean with the original plating was bead blasted and clearcoated using 500 degree clear coat. Everything else was cleaned, inspected, readjusted, or replaced. All new studs, washers and nuts on the intake manifolds, which were cleaned and glass bead basted. I also polished a few things that needed it. Everything was set back to OEM specs, like the floats and needle placement. New gaskets on the floats, filters were cleaned inspected and replaced if needed. This complete intake and SU set-uip with linkage is FOR SALE I'm asking $450 plus $25 for shipping (2-3 day Priority Mail thru USPS) with insurance and tracking. for a total of $475 out the door. First come, first serve. I've spent a good 40 hours rebuilding and assembling them and we ALL know that they (in this good of condition) are worth A LOT more than the asking price. They WILL need to be adjusted upon installing them onto your motor. the mixture nuts are set at 2 turns out and the throttle and ballance screws will need to be adjusted accordingly. There is NO egr Valve and a new one should be purchased and installed before start-up. There is no water lines connecting the 2 intakes. There IS the 2 water line nuts and line fittings, that go on the outer edges of the intakes. Those are only needed in cold climates for heating up the carbs and are usually bypassed by most 240Z owners. 4 screw SU's don't have the coolant resevoir to accept coolant like the 3-screws do. The intakes are E88 and the ballance tube is an E46. I will include a heat sheild for $25 more if needed. If you are interested in the set. Please contact me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com Sorry to Jack this thread but it seemed apropriate because of the photos below, which may come in handy when looking for info on the linkage set-up. Dave.

Hell, I am STILL nice to people everyday, I do the right thing even when I hate doing it. I give money to the poor, I work for free half the time for people who could pay me but I feel bad for them cause they're on Social Security or retirement funds. I help friends and family without question and 90% of the time, for free. I'm not saying that stealing is right or justified but.... No one got hurt (physically) the part was on a car that cost less than a $100 at some auction that was bought to make a profit off of somebodys misfortune. The Pull-a-Part near me charges just to look at the car to see if they have what you need and if the car is stripped and has nothing you can use, you're still out the entry fee. In other words, the junk yard made more than their fare share off that car and the rest would have went to the scrap heap. It's a dog eat dog world. I give all and take what I need. Sorry for the length of each post but there is no simple explaination to defending someones right to what they deserve. It's not like he stole it to sell it and buy drugs with. He rescued it as far as I'm concerned. Lock this thread Mike. Poke it with a fork, it's done. Dave.

Fish as in sqeeling tires? or fish as in the rear end is wiggling around? If it's the 2nd question, check out the bushings and bolts on the lower control arms in the rear. I had a problem once where I would hit the gas and the car would kick sideways and back when I let off. turns out one of my huge lower control arm bolts was GONE. The whole wheel was floating on the front diff mount and strut nuts. ya never know till ya get under there. Dave.

My Pleasure! It was a nice change having a challenge like the ones you sent me. You'll notice that there were 2 of the same item in the bag, because I broke one same as you did. Took me 3 tries to get it right. Make sure you give a shout out to those who have donated parts to me for the sake of others. Those donated parts are what helped me help you. Glad to see you're happy with the service and the end result. Dave.

So you guys are sweet and innocent angles? You've never taken something for nothing? Never Borrowed something permanently? Ever got back too much change for something you bought and did'nt say anything, even after you realized it? Let he who is without sin, cast the first stone. Nuff said. And if any of you who critisized him think your perfect or guilt free, think again. Dave. Now say sorry, congradualte him on finding and rescuing a very rare part and get on with your lives. As for the Z-GODS, they too are happy that the part is in better hands and will be reserected from certain doom. PS, Nice find and rescue FailadyZS30

either way, he's still an arse. or maybe I am. The 350Z was designed by americams and that's what he does'nt like.

You obviously have different wear in the domes and on the dash pots. The amount of oil as well as the weight of the oil (I used 5/20 weight in mine) will determine the speed of rise and fall on each dash pot. remove the domes, and the dash pots, inspect both springs, clean them both (dome and dash pot) with carborator cleaner (spray) then reinsert the dash pots. place the domes back on top and slowly insert one screw at a time, while lifting and letting the dash pots drop as you snug each screw down. If at any time, the dashpot slows or scrapes, the dome needs to be re-adjusted by turning it back or forth (clockwise or counter clockwise) Also try snugging one screw, testing, then do the opposite corner, then test again, then another screw until all four are down and the dash pot stil moves freely in the dome. After both carbs are done, slowly add oil to each cylinder, a few drops at a time. The key is to add oil till it rest inbetween the 2 lines on the dipstick. Test the rise and fall again, a few times, they should be the same at this point. If one takes longer to fall, add 2 drops to the other (faster moving) dashpot. The oil creates a smooth operation of up and down movement. each carb wears differently to you need to adjust accordingly. Remember that the domes can become warped from heat and overtightening over a period of time so you need to check them and re-adjust them every once in a while. Hope that helps, Dave.