Zs-ondabrain

This is for you guys. I just figured since I couldn't keep up with orders before, that there may be some more folks looking for an R/T mont for their S30. So here ya go. http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountPurchase.html

that's not too bad at all. Hell, you could rubber plug that hole, in a pinch. OR... Square off the hole, weld in a filler plate, spray or brush on a protectant from the inside (you'll likely have to use a stick or extension to reach the hole repair on the inside) then POR15 the outside? just a thought.

To any and all who are still interested in Purchasing the R/T mount. They are once again available thru Brian at Technoversions. They are Already Powdercoated and come with the bump stop. If you would like to get yours with a Pre-machined GM trans mount (already machined to fit your R180 or R200 diff bolt pattern) then the cost is $28 more. He recently had a new batch made up and they are done and ready to ship for $60 + $12 S/H http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html Click on the "Purchase" button on the upper Left column to buy one. He uses PayPal, so in the "Notes to seller" please let him know that I sent you to him. He likes to know these things. Thanks to all my previous customers and Brians New Customers. Dave http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountPurchase.html

depends on the broken stud. Is it in the head? Are you able to grab it with a pair of Vice grips, drill it out and back it out, soak it with some Break away fluid? A Picture is worth a few hundred or a few select words. If it's inside the head and unreachable, a machine shop may be a better choice. Dave

Same thing here. I posted it last week. Same line, Same BS. It's not a "This guy" is a conglomerant of people pulling the same shite, over and over. Reporting it seems useless as the goverment knows all about it and it continues on a daily basis. You'd think that with our Gov's computer programs that can search every damn email in the word for one word, that they could enter in this idiots Responce letter ("Good day to you right over there,I will like to know if this item is still for sale") and instantly backtrack it and send a Virus to their computer. As knowbody else uses that exact line unless it's a scam. But they won't and we'll continue to do their job, of warning people about the emails. So thanks for the warning and hopefully folks read this and learn to just erase it and put that email into the SPAM box. Dave

When my local metal guy welded my custom tank, He mentioned something about filling the tank with an "Inert Gas". Something about it also helping suck the weld inside as well. I tried to upload the shots, which are all the same size etc, etc, but it will only let me upload 1 pic?? I'll try and show the inner shot later on, after I restart my computer. Can't upload the close-up pic but this inside shot shows how the weld was sucked in by the inert gas. So it looks like he welded the inside as well.

Rebuilt the Mechanical fuel pump (was leaking due to a bad Diaphram) Finished installing the Nissan Maxima Push button Start/Stop Switch into the 240Z. With a big thanks to Brian Laine, who designed and built the circuit board to make it all work like a Maxima, but in my 240Z. http://video.cardomain.com/VideoPlayer.aspx?id=2202506 Dave

Not really Snake oil. The relay will just minimize the amperage that flows thru the ignition switch and wiring oll the way to the starter. And give a solid battery 12+ volts to the Solenoid, rather than the worn out voltage that has to travel thru the old wiring, switch and connectors. As for the "Click Click Click" That is due to the worn contacts INSIDE the Solenoid, and the Relay upgrade will not fix this. If anything, is will only add to the problem. Just replace the Starter Solenoid if it starts to do this. Dave

And now that I see the pics, I stand by my $500 to $800 quote. Looks like every panel needs to be stripped and treated for rust, filled, cut welded, primed painted, etc, etc. Replacement panels and patch panels are available, sheet metal is cheap but you gotta cut out the rust, cut the patch and weld it in, etc. $800, tops. Dave

Think of it this way, A Unibody car IS the frame. A weak floor is a weak frame, and so on, and so on. When running a V8, Reinforcement is the Key. Formed steel, with reinforcement bends and such, are your best bet. Good solid welds. Do what YOU think the factory should have done, when welding in plates, brackets, etc. I'm building a 260Z that I'm doing MY way. If someone thinks it ugly or cool, that's their opinion. It's not like they will Ever drive it. Every write up possible, for every motor in a Z possible, has been done on HybridZ. If it's been done, you'll find info there. Dave

I too have BP6ES (Non-R) plugs. 800 watt stereo system, 8 speakers and 2 subs. My volume runs fron 0 to 40, 20 is loud. I can only hear buzzing at 1 thru 3, and you can't even hear music at that level. My exhaust easily covers that up. So if I had to say Yes or no to hearing the buzzing.... Only if you REALLY listen for it. otherwise, NO, nothing audible. Dave

Wish I would have kept them now. Oh well, too late for that. Didn't Mike? have a set on a Yellow Z?

I also had a set of triple SU's a few years back. They ran ok but I was too much of a novice to tune them correctly. I sold the intake to a guy in Canada. never heard fom him again. I don't think. Had to make my own linkage, throttle and choke assemblies to make it work together. Fun stuff Dave

with the weather we're having, ya better bring a rubber raft.. You may have to waller thru the mud to find it.... Damn weather, Dave

Hey Dane, There is a 240Z at the Lynnwood Pull a Part. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=41280 Might be worth the drive. Too bad they normally put a hole in the fuel tank but maybe something else there worth buying... Dave

I don't beleive there is an actual off the shelf 6 carb set-up. Someone has made the 6 carb set-up, by customizing and intake and using 6 Kawasaki motorbike carbs, custom linkage and some other goodies. It's Plausible but but for the time and money, just buy a set of Webers or Mikuni's. I got a set of 40DCOE Webers that need to be rebuilt for $700 if you're interested..... (Complete set, linkage, Cannon Manifold and K&N air cleaner set-up, Needs new filters though) Dave

Ya I read that afterwards, but for anyone else who reads the thread, they'll know by reading all of our posts, that NGK is the only thing they should really use. Glad you're getting it fixed. I think you'll be much happier with the NGK's in there. Better Gas milage and power and starting. Dave

Oh I know Steve, I was just merely stating that you had mentioned one part of the problem, and that my guess was the other half of the problem. Like all things, "One thing led to another". The PO didn't know where to start, so he just Jerry-rigged it instead of hunting down the real issue. My issue, if any, was with Enrique stating that I didn't even read the Original post. I read it, and my conclusion was the T/S switch. And unlike most, I Actually research the Owner to find out what car they have, as it's usually in their Public info. So I already knew it was a 71' 240Z before I made my first post. Guess I'm funny that way. Dave

Without reading all the responces, I can tell you part of the problem is.... DO NOT Use Autolite Plugs in a Z car!!! NGK BPR6ES I personally use BP6ES but that's a personal choice. I also have a Mallory Promaster Coil, Unilite Dizzy and MSD 6AL. But I won't use anything but NGK plugs and wires. I've tried all the others, Autolites, Champians, Splitfires, Etc, etc. Nothing lasts as long or burns like the NGK's Dave

So here's my guess again............ Stevej says Bulb and socket, I say it's the T/S switch. So it turns out that, and I'll almost bet on it, that the switch went bad, the Previous Owner couldn't figure it out, and rewired it. So the T/S is likely, Again, 95% chance to blame and the PO rewired because of it. SO I'm sticking with my original Diagnosis. Dave

Although #2 and #6 look lean, they look better than the incomplete burns on the others. I use nothing but NGK plugs and Wires. But I use BP6ES plugs. Should I use the BPR's?? What are the advantages of those? Anyways, as Gary said, NGK!! New wires never hurt, go with the Blue NGK wires. The increased Burn marks on the Inside of the Cap on #2 and 6 could also mean that they are getting better spark than the others. Typically, the wearing away of metal in a cap means the electricity is hitting that contact better. What's the possibility of a wobbly Dizzy? I guess it sounds like I'm throwing stuff out there, It's late and I'm gonna go to bed and think better in the morning. Let us know what you find. Dave

Haha, That would be great if it wasn't from "Datsun Parts" Do a search of him here at CZCC. You won't be dissapointed in the write-ups, but will likely be upset with him....... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16183 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34974 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30585

If it's been a Cali Car for most of it's life, and the rust is located mostly on the outside, and panels are readily available, then $800 is more than a fair price. Cause you'll spend the $900 difference in parts, body work and paint without battin an eyelash. Then there's the Suspension? Tires? Brakes? Electrical? Cooling and heating? Etc, Etc. So like 5thhorsemann said, "Why is he selling?" Money or tired of it? Offer $500 but only go as high as $800 firm. Stick to your guns and don't give in to whining, cause you'll be the one crying when you drop serious Cash to get her decently Safe and Road worthy. So decide what you wanna spend and remember, it's not the only California Z car for sale. Just cause he is a friend doesn't mean you Have to buy from him. Dave

I wrote this, Unchanged and in it's original form....... You wrote this to me, Via PM, ........ ]QUOTE=VENUS]I see you are a heavy duty poster. You should not be so quick to judge a new member. Yes, the logo, ads T-shirs, etc. are designed by me for the 2011 national meet. If you bring your Z there is a cool T-shirt available to sport under your brain. Please explain to me how I was "Quick to judge a new member". I merely stated the facts as they were laid out. I added nothing, nor did I take anything out of context. New Members are always welcome and are also like a Box of Chocolates, Cause "Ya Never know whatcha gonna get" Although I'm starting to get a clue. If you read 99.5% of my 3737 posts, you'll find that I'm on this site to learn and teach. They go hand in hand. So please explain to the Class what your contributions are to the Z world. I know what mine are. Sincerely, Dave. P.S. I live on the West Coast, the Pacific Ocean is 5 minutes from my front door. The chances of me making it to the East coast with the car and an Epileptic Wife are pretty unlikely. But Thanks for the invite.

Karen is a "Senior Presentation Specialist" out of Georgia. There are 2 Karens on the "Z Island" link through Facebook, one is set to Private and the other is in Virginia. The Z Island page has the same artwork as Venus's Avatar. Or vice-versa. Nice to meet ya Chris. Welcome. Dave