Zs-ondabrain

SO NOT fare

Good point MikeW Still a no show as of 7/27/07 evening I DID get a bill, but no magazine in Marysville, WA.

definately check the fuseholder for the fan. It's plastic and when it over heats, it loses contact with the fuse. Use an ohms meter to make sure it has power going in and out of the fuse holder. And double check yer grounds. let us know. Dave.

I removed the green lense in one of my guages after installing the led lights. It was a little brighter, and there was a slight tint of blue but hardly noticable. Brighter would be without the green caps. Dave.

I can't believe it had to be explained. Two men walk into a bar............... you'd think they would have ducked..... What do you cal a gay dinosaur......... a MegaSoreAss... What do you call a lesbian dinosaur........ a Lickalotapuss... Little Johnny was sitting on the front steps of his house and his mother was watching him out of the window She watched him do the following.. He would grab the cat, bite him, put some sweet tarts in his mouth, then move down a step. After wathing him for a few minutes, she still could'nt really tell what he was doing. he repeatedly bit the cat, put some sweet tarts in his mouth and move down another step.... After a few more minutes, she went out and asked little Johnny what he was playing. Little Johnny replied, "I'm playing TRUCKER, Mommy" His mother then says "I don't get it, explain it to me" Little Johnny says, "it's easy, I'm eating puessy, poppin pills and movin on" Sorry, had to edit the P word, it program edited it for me

a good spray type white lithium should work great. I used it on my window tracks and on my wiper arms when I did the tear down this last winter. Also, go with the more expensive silicone wipers. they make a big difference cause they don't Drag as easy, they last longer and wipe beautifully. Thanks for the tid-bit 76Datsun280z, wipers are usually overlooked and VERY important around here. Especially this week. Dave.

Same thoughts here. They (TEP) say the Carter 4070 cause it is supposed to be around 4 psi. "No regulator required" But it sounds like it's defective so if it's always gonna put out 8 pounds, go with a regulator just to be safe. I just bought a triple set of 40 DCOE's for $800 so I think I'l go with the Carter and a regulator (for the hell of it) Dave.

If you are still considering a cam for your engine build-up, I have a brand new Stage 2 cam for sale. It's a 480/280 grind. Lift(In/Ex): .480/.480. Duration(In/Ex): 280/280. Characteristics: Good idle, power range 2000-6000 RPM. Great slalom grind, works well with stock carbs or triple Webers. $100 plus USPS Priority (2-3 day) Mail (about $20) Let me know if ya want it or know of someone interested. You or the buyer will still need new lash pads, and rocker arms but that's typical of any new cam installation. An oiler bar is not needed because this cam has the oil holes already, but keeping the stock oiler bar is never a bad idea. MSA sells the same performance Cam for $179 plus shipping, ususally too much. Dave.

It's a great Idea, for any older car like the 240Z. I've yet to do this to mine but it also has'nt been a problem yet. Sorry for the delay, I'm out of town building a composite decking Deck for a friend. I'll be gone till Monday the 16th. Dave.

They fit beautifully!!! Those are the same exact ones I have in MY Z. The bucket is plenty deep enough. And the city light plug is a soft rubber and bends easily. Hey Arne, is Will making a headlight harness that I'm not aware of?

Congrats on purchasing the same headlights that I purchased from Fantastic BuyZ. But I'm pretty sure that I was the one that told you about those. And by the way, I'm the one who Make the Headlight relay upgrade harness's for the 240Z's. (Look at my signiture below) Anyways, There are 4 screws that hold the headlight housing onto the headlight bucket, on the inner wheel well. Remove any undercoating around the screws, unscrew them, and the whole thing will fall into your hands with a little help. Lower it towards the ground and turn it over. Looking at the light, there are 3 small screws that hold the Headlight chrome trim on. Loosen the 3 screws and twist the trim so that the screws line up with the oversized holes. The trim comes right off and the headlight will come out easily. Unplug the headlight, grab the NEW headlight, plug it in then set it into the BUCKET and replace the chrome trim. Snug up the screws and put it all back together. MAKE SURE THE H4 BULB IS IN THE HOUSING BEFORE YOU BOLT IT BACK UP. OR TURN THE HEADLIGHTS ON BEFORE REASSEMBLY. If you don't already have a headlight upgrade harness, NOW is the time to get one. They are only $125 and will save your Z from a melt down because you are using almost 100 watt bulbs. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com. I have 3 harness's made and ready to ship. Dave.

What some of you are forgeting about is "the cars were crushed not only because of street racing but because of STOLEN PARTS on the vehicles. Motors, trannies, wheels, body parts, etc, were the secondary cause of the "SETTING AN EXAMPLE" crushing. When you buy stolen parts, the law see's it the same as you steeling them. just adding to the fire, Dave.

Probably the first time they were both coming and going at the same time.

And to that, I still dissagree...... If I fill a METAL gas can with gas, connect a ground wire from the spark plug to the can, submerge the end of the spark plug into the can and connect it to a 60,000 volt coil, IT WILL BLOW THE HELL UP!!!! PERIOD. Fouled or not, it the spark is sufficient, the fuel or extra fuel will burn or ignite. Not trying to be stubborn but facts are facts. Fill your whole house with fuel, if lightning strikes the house, it WILL blow up. JM2CW but not worth fighting over. Dave.

And as for #6 not firing. It can only be one of a few things. 1) a bad spark plug wire 2) a bad spark plug 3) bad cap or rotor (more towards the cap) but you said that #6 IS getting spark. So which is it? Even if your injector is bad (stuck open or dumping too much fuel) a sparking spark plug should fire that fuel. If it's NOT firing that fuel, it's time to upgrade your igniton system to a set-up that puts out some better fire power than what you're currently running. I personally use a Mallory Unilite Distributor with a Mallory Promaster Coil and an MSD 6A. The coil puts out around 60,000 volts, or so I read somewhere and it puts out a bolt of Lightning each and every time if fires. Something to think about.

I laughed my arse off when I saw that. That'll teach 'em. They put everyone and them selves in danger and they get what they deserve. Do you think they'll learn??? Not likely!!! Where the hell do these kids get 10 grand to sink into a fricken Honda POS?

I have 3) 240Z headlight Relay Upgrade Harness's made and ready to be shipped right now. If you and a friend go in together, I'll knock $10 off the price of 2 and $15 off 3 harness's. They are $125 each unless you buy 2 or more. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com for info or ordering. Thanks in advance, Dave.

I'm happier than a fat kid in a candy shop!!! I just picked up a triple set of 40 DCOE Webers on a Cannon Manifold With Linkage for only $500!!! And while I'm getting ready for delivery, I found this for any and all who are interested. http://www.racetep.com/webtechpage.html All of Webers technical info is all this page. A MUST READ for all triple newbies. Dave.

look around to the right or after the 1 of 3 and you'll see there is an english subtitles version. Very cool.

When you get the gasket, DON'T get the HD Header gasket. They are more britttle and prone to breakage and blow-out. Use the thicker regular gasket. They work just as good for the intake and last longer on the header. That's what I did and Have NOT had any leaks or problems. But the header before that kept blowing my expensive HD header gaskets out. JFYI Dave.

I did what Geezer mentioned. I grabbed a POS Made in Taiwan Long Box end wrench and ground it down on the grinder so it was a little thinner and fit between the nut and the half shaft body. Once I was able to get the wrench on there, They finally cracked loose and unscrewed easily. I personally use Liquid Wrench. It's easier to find and inexspensive but does the job. I guess I'm luckier than most, My 70' was 95% rust free when I got her. Only broken bolts were the fender screws where the hood closes. I snapped two of them and the other fender screws under the cowl on the drivers side. Dave.

Nope, I meant 3/73'. Simply put, Every one who has bought a PLH from me, whose Z was built AFTER 3/73, has told me that the Combo switch's plug was changed to a small 9-pin plug, from the usual larger 6-pin (like the VR plug or the ignition switch plug. So I put 3/73 cause they Nissan made the change some where in march of 73' Also, the "attached Image" you showed is of the BODY harness's Not the Dash Harness's, which did change in that 1 year time frame. Probably around March? Ya think? :classic: If you have the 9-pin plug on yer Combo switch, There is a repair in the form of cutting one wire. but that's it just one wire and removing my "T" plugs to make it work. Let me know, Dave.