Zs-ondabrain

Double check the switch with an ohms meter. test the solder joints on top of the combo switch (green/white green/blue) there should be 0 ohm between them with the parking lights on and 0 ohms with the headlights on also. There are only 2 explanations for the parking lights dropping out when you turn on the headlights. 1) the switch is not making contact on the inside when the headlights are turned on. 2) the headlights are somehow drawing all the ground from the parking lights. Loosen and remove the ground wire screw/bolt near the frame, find a wire wheel dremmel bit or stiff wire brush, brush the hell out of the contact (ring terminal with 2) 10 gauge wires on it) and clean the area aound the screw/bolt hole. then rescrew/bolt it down, nice and tight. The headlight circuit is completely separte from any other circuit in the car. Therefore, it has to be a ground problem. I've checked 3 other diagrams and found NO particular ground points other than those I already pointed out earlier. The only other possible ground points would be where the dash is bolted to the inside of the car. Behind the radio is a "U" shaped bracket (bolted to the trans hump, that has 2 side brackets that attach to the dash. Check the bolts there and make sure they are tight, with a socket or wrench (10 MM). Hope this helps a little more, Dave.

Defenetly start with the grounds. Sometimes the headlights can draw too much ground from the parking lights. I know that sounds totally wrong and weird but hear me out. The front parking lights are grounded thru a single wire that connects to the larger gauge wire that bolts to the alternator and then to the body, on the frame below the battery. (across from the starter) The front side markers, parking lights and front turn signals as well as the Voltage regulator and underhood inspection light ALL use the same Small gauge ground wire. Every ground in the dash area uses the SAME 10 gauge wire (noted above as bolting to the body, just above the frame rail, near the starter) START HERE!!! Also look on the upper right side passenger kick panel for that same ground wire and check the connection there as well. The headlights use that ground wire to control the HI and LO beam. If the headlights draw too much from that ground wire because of a bad connection, the parking lights may suffer because of it. Check yer grounds and go from there. Also check the combo switch and the connector plug for proper connection. Good luck, Dave.

If at all possible, (I had the SAME exact problem 2 weeks ago) Use a LOOOONG 6-point box end wrench. Typically, a combo wrench is gonna be a 12 point but 6 is WAY better. 1) 6 point box end combo wrench, LONG 1) Brass hammer or sand filled DEAD-BLOW hammer (Like a rubber mallet but hard plastic filled with sand. 1) another long box wrench to attach to the first one for added torque 1) the kroil works beautifuly Good luck, Dave.

I've seen 6'2" guys in a roadster and the top had to be down. The seats should be able to be lowered or modified to accomidate but I'd have to look at one to really know. The Z's were actually designed for 5' 8" and taller American men. Thje 1600 you described should be at or above $2000 (area and owner vary the price.) Still $25,000 less than a 350Z. Got a picture of inside and out? Dave.

Couple things.. Got the magazine on Saturday (7/28) I do agree with those of you pointing out the fact that there are very few S30 Articles, And that things on the original Z's have slowed quite a bit. The previous magazine had GREAT articles on the S30's, especially the cover story on the gentleman with the 3 almost PERFECT Z's. LOVED it!!. But please keep this in mind, The magazine, though being available for Many years, is still in its "Infant" years. Your subscriptions and opinions are what will help the magazine become what you would like it to be. They don't have a million dollar backer throwing cash at them to do what the Subscribers want. They (NSM) do what they can, with what they have available. I do agree that there are PLENTY of early S30's out there to fill at least 2 Major articles per Issue, along with the project car. Between ClassicZcars and HybridZ, there are hundreds of FINISHED project cars that can fill the void, for years to come. If the Magazine asks for cars to cover, they will be overloaded with everything from True classic rebuilds to Hi-tech swaps in a classic updated car. Take mine for instance........ (not to put me in the spot light but as a simple biast suggestion) I have a beautiful engine Bay with Triple Webers (40-DCOE's) hand polished valve cover-fuel pump-and other aluminum items, Stage 2 cam, Mallory Unilite distributor, MSA Ceramic Coated 6-into-1 Header, 2 1/2" exhaust, MSD 6A, Mallory ProMaster Coil, Stainless Steel Braided Hoses everywhere, and many other stand out Items. I make and use the..... (HLH) Headlight relay Upgrade Harness. (PLH) Parking Light Upgrade Harness. (ZXP) 280ZX alternator upgrade Plug LED rear tail Light Conversion. LED Side Markers LED Dash Lights, Dome light and Map light. H4 Conversion Headlights Full Alarm System, Power Windows, Power Door Locks, Hidden Subwoofer Enclosure In The Wheel Well, 6) 2-way mid-range Speakers thru out the car, 2) 400 watt amps making 800 watts. Custom kick panel Speaker pods for 2) 6" 2-way speakers New paint, Toyota Brake conversion on the front, CUSTOM Cowl Induction Hood, XENON front Air Dam with driving lights in the vents. Custom front grill, BRE rear Spoiler molded into the rear hatch. Hatch lock inverted to the body and off the hatch. These are a FEW of the mods to my 70' 240Z. I love my car (like a brother should be loved) and I'll have it for the rest of my life, and I'm only 36. SO... in conclusion, The magazine is Great but Lacks in certain area's. It's called NISSAN SPORT, Not Datsun Sport. nuff said. Keep up the good work on the magazine. And for those who wish to cancel your subscriptions, You won't find another magazine with as many S30 articles (few though they may be) as NSM. But it's like they say, if you can do better, by all means, have at it. Take charge, not offence. Dave.

SO NOT fare

Good point MikeW Still a no show as of 7/27/07 evening I DID get a bill, but no magazine in Marysville, WA.

definately check the fuseholder for the fan. It's plastic and when it over heats, it loses contact with the fuse. Use an ohms meter to make sure it has power going in and out of the fuse holder. And double check yer grounds. let us know. Dave.

I removed the green lense in one of my guages after installing the led lights. It was a little brighter, and there was a slight tint of blue but hardly noticable. Brighter would be without the green caps. Dave.

a good spray type white lithium should work great. I used it on my window tracks and on my wiper arms when I did the tear down this last winter. Also, go with the more expensive silicone wipers. they make a big difference cause they don't Drag as easy, they last longer and wipe beautifully. Thanks for the tid-bit 76Datsun280z, wipers are usually overlooked and VERY important around here. Especially this week. Dave.

Same thoughts here. They (TEP) say the Carter 4070 cause it is supposed to be around 4 psi. "No regulator required" But it sounds like it's defective so if it's always gonna put out 8 pounds, go with a regulator just to be safe. I just bought a triple set of 40 DCOE's for $800 so I think I'l go with the Carter and a regulator (for the hell of it) Dave.

If you are still considering a cam for your engine build-up, I have a brand new Stage 2 cam for sale. It's a 480/280 grind. Lift(In/Ex): .480/.480. Duration(In/Ex): 280/280. Characteristics: Good idle, power range 2000-6000 RPM. Great slalom grind, works well with stock carbs or triple Webers. $100 plus USPS Priority (2-3 day) Mail (about $20) Let me know if ya want it or know of someone interested. You or the buyer will still need new lash pads, and rocker arms but that's typical of any new cam installation. An oiler bar is not needed because this cam has the oil holes already, but keeping the stock oiler bar is never a bad idea. MSA sells the same performance Cam for $179 plus shipping, ususally too much. Dave.

It's a great Idea, for any older car like the 240Z. I've yet to do this to mine but it also has'nt been a problem yet. Sorry for the delay, I'm out of town building a composite decking Deck for a friend. I'll be gone till Monday the 16th. Dave.

They fit beautifully!!! Those are the same exact ones I have in MY Z. The bucket is plenty deep enough. And the city light plug is a soft rubber and bends easily. Hey Arne, is Will making a headlight harness that I'm not aware of?

Congrats on purchasing the same headlights that I purchased from Fantastic BuyZ. But I'm pretty sure that I was the one that told you about those. And by the way, I'm the one who Make the Headlight relay upgrade harness's for the 240Z's. (Look at my signiture below) Anyways, There are 4 screws that hold the headlight housing onto the headlight bucket, on the inner wheel well. Remove any undercoating around the screws, unscrew them, and the whole thing will fall into your hands with a little help. Lower it towards the ground and turn it over. Looking at the light, there are 3 small screws that hold the Headlight chrome trim on. Loosen the 3 screws and twist the trim so that the screws line up with the oversized holes. The trim comes right off and the headlight will come out easily. Unplug the headlight, grab the NEW headlight, plug it in then set it into the BUCKET and replace the chrome trim. Snug up the screws and put it all back together. MAKE SURE THE H4 BULB IS IN THE HOUSING BEFORE YOU BOLT IT BACK UP. OR TURN THE HEADLIGHTS ON BEFORE REASSEMBLY. If you don't already have a headlight upgrade harness, NOW is the time to get one. They are only $125 and will save your Z from a melt down because you are using almost 100 watt bulbs. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com. I have 3 harness's made and ready to ship. Dave.

What some of you are forgeting about is "the cars were crushed not only because of street racing but because of STOLEN PARTS on the vehicles. Motors, trannies, wheels, body parts, etc, were the secondary cause of the "SETTING AN EXAMPLE" crushing. When you buy stolen parts, the law see's it the same as you steeling them. just adding to the fire, Dave.

And to that, I still dissagree...... If I fill a METAL gas can with gas, connect a ground wire from the spark plug to the can, submerge the end of the spark plug into the can and connect it to a 60,000 volt coil, IT WILL BLOW THE HELL UP!!!! PERIOD. Fouled or not, it the spark is sufficient, the fuel or extra fuel will burn or ignite. Not trying to be stubborn but facts are facts. Fill your whole house with fuel, if lightning strikes the house, it WILL blow up. JM2CW but not worth fighting over. Dave.

And as for #6 not firing. It can only be one of a few things. 1) a bad spark plug wire 2) a bad spark plug 3) bad cap or rotor (more towards the cap) but you said that #6 IS getting spark. So which is it? Even if your injector is bad (stuck open or dumping too much fuel) a sparking spark plug should fire that fuel. If it's NOT firing that fuel, it's time to upgrade your igniton system to a set-up that puts out some better fire power than what you're currently running. I personally use a Mallory Unilite Distributor with a Mallory Promaster Coil and an MSD 6A. The coil puts out around 60,000 volts, or so I read somewhere and it puts out a bolt of Lightning each and every time if fires. Something to think about.

I laughed my arse off when I saw that. That'll teach 'em. They put everyone and them selves in danger and they get what they deserve. Do you think they'll learn??? Not likely!!! Where the hell do these kids get 10 grand to sink into a fricken Honda POS?

I have 3) 240Z headlight Relay Upgrade Harness's made and ready to be shipped right now. If you and a friend go in together, I'll knock $10 off the price of 2 and $15 off 3 harness's. They are $125 each unless you buy 2 or more. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com for info or ordering. Thanks in advance, Dave.

I'm happier than a fat kid in a candy shop!!! I just picked up a triple set of 40 DCOE Webers on a Cannon Manifold With Linkage for only $500!!! And while I'm getting ready for delivery, I found this for any and all who are interested. http://www.racetep.com/webtechpage.html All of Webers technical info is all this page. A MUST READ for all triple newbies. Dave.

look around to the right or after the 1 of 3 and you'll see there is an english subtitles version. Very cool.