Zs-ondabrain

As for your PM question, I can have the antenna here three business days after I order it. They are $75 each and it's a Metra 44-PW22 full automatic Power antenna. Also Available with a black Mast for $8.00 more. So figure 2 days for your money order to get to me, 3 days for me to get it. and 2 more days for it to arrive on your doorstep. Roughly round it up to 8 days from the time you drop your order in the mail. Just over a week ain't too bad. But if we plan it right. You can also come down here when it arrives here and I'll help you install it. Let me know what ya think.

fine? fine what? I'm easily confused at this time of the morning. (1:22AM) Dave

why do you guys have to make it so technical? nevermind, dumb question. Did any one of you offer him a new/used housing? They aren't that damn rare. Hell, I think I have 2 or 3 of them in a box somewhere. What year Z and take a picture of it. I'll sell you mine if it's the same one for $10.00 No rethreading, no machine shop, no more hastle. Dave.

I just painted my car as close to the original as possible. I removed the... Hatch Hood Cowl front and rear windows Quarter windows Door seals inner and outer hatch seals along with all the hardware and hinges Headlight assemblies but left the buckets on Side markers and all emblems I left the doors on but removed the door handles, locks, and mirrors bumpers, grill and hood catch rod. Did the body work, cleaned, replaced or fixed all the hardware and rubber. As for the paint under the floor mats and rear hatch area, those are always covered and nobody EVER see them. It's up to you to what extent you want to go but unless you're going for absolute perfection or as Will likes to say "Concoarse" I'd say do what needs to be done but save yourself all the electrical and interior problems of R+R (remove and replace) If the rust on the floor pans is just surface rust. Remove as much as possible then use a rust converter then remat the floorboards after fixing the hole(s) I guess it all depends on the condition of the metal. Floor pan replacement is not that easy and if it can be avoided succesfully, by all means, go the easier route. Dave.

I actually know the guy, His name is Pat Green and he lives in Everett, just up the road from me. He showed me the 510 Shift knob at the Golden Gardens show on the 25th of March. Great guy and GREAT badge. Beautiful wooden knob with a great smooth finish. I'll be getting one for sure. I told him to send me the info on them and I'd show them to you guys but it looks like MikeB beat me to it. He's also going to make the glovebox emblem in the same style and you can damn well bet that I'll have one of the first ones he offers. Dave. P.S. He also mentioned Key fobs to me as well. we'll see.

First off Albert, Most of our alternators don't put out a charge to the battery unless you are above idle (around 1100 RPM's and higher) Most 240Z's with a low idle will try to die if you ask too much of the battery before it's actually getting a charge. The reason your cars keeps running after disconnecting the battery while giving it a little gas is because you're no longer at idle and the alternator is doing it's job. One other thing, If you like your alternator and voltage regulator, Don't ever disconnect your battery while the car is running. The alternator puts out an alternating current (similar to AC) and the battery is a DC cell which is Direct current. The battery also smooths out the ripple in the voltage flow and without that smoothing effect, you can blow your voltage regulator and do damage to the alternator. Next time use a $5.00 voltage meter. It'll tell you everything you need to know. If you shorten (smaller) the pulley on the alternator, it'll kick out the voltage at idle rather than turning your idle up to compensate. If you have a 240Z, you can swap out the alternator for a 280ZX alternator which is also internally regulated. Buy one of my ZX adaptor plugs for $15 and the instal is a breeze (about 20 minutes) Dave

Screw the OEM power antenna. I replaced mine with a metra 44-PW22 It comes with plenty of option parts for all different angles or what ever. I can get you 31" or 42" fully automatic power antenna for less than $80 Hell, send me $100, I'll order the antenna, and when it shows up, I'll bring it to you and help you install it. What are your plans for the stereo system? Full out 4 2-way speakers and subs? Amps? Do you want power windows, power locks, full out alarm with 2-way comunication remotes? What do you wanna do to your Z? drop me an email at wolfin32z@yahoo and I'll give you my 360 number.

I too bought the 2" rubberized webbing from an apholstery shop just up the road from me, But I paid over $1.00 per foot. I slowly undid the OEM "star-buttons" and re-used them after taking a wire wheel to them. The old rubber had volcanized and became very rigded. And HOLY crap batman! the difference was nite and day. My 36 year old seats (at that time) FELT LIKE NEW. I ended up selling them to a guy who absolutely fell in love with them after sitting in them for about 5 minute. He gave me $300 for the set, rips and all. very few rips, but still had rips. AND he gave me the Honda Accord seats that sit in it now. And after traveling 2400 miles, round trip to the MSA's last year, It was well worth the upgrade to the Honda seats. Especially since they fully recline and slide and lean forward. 70' seats only move 5 degrees if the knob even turns any more. Dave. P.S. Astrohog, I live right down the road in Marysville, stop by sometime. P.M. me for info.

My best guess would be the HI/LOW beam switch. It's a teeter / totter type switch. It works on the same principle as a regular toggle switch but uses needle slider that is spring loaded. What happens is you pull back on the handle and it slides to the other side or contact. But because it's a teeter/totter switch, it can get stuck in the middle because of the groove that gets worn in there over time. It sounds like your switch got stuck and then fell back to the low beam position. My switch service would likely cure that problem. Just keep this in mind. You may have MY harness's NOW but how many years did your Z have full power going thru the switches before the harness install. My Z is 37 years old in August, And it went 34 years in the stock set-up. So after I installed the upgrade, The switches got refreshed and definately needed it. It's only $35 for the service or $200+ for a new set. Dave.

try testing that same circuit whe you press on the brake peddle. Reason I say this is because your brake wire goes into the turn signal switch and is then split into 2. one for the left blinker and one for the right blinker. The T/S switch reverts them towards the blinker module. That may be the split you are thinking about. The Rheostat (Dimmer) switch is located under the dash to the right of the steering column. It only controls the dash lights. I don't know what book my diagram is out of but the "Rheostat is shown on the top of the diagram, a little right of center. It's a small circle with 2 wires coming out of it. The parking lights are shown as a green/blue wire for the front and green/white for the rear and they most likely split near the right kick panel connections. Dave.

one more try www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q****LxobE0

Now is a good time to start thinking about my combo/T/S service that I provide along with the headlight and parking light upgrade harness's that I make. The links are below. Or email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com As for the parking light situation, The problem with electrical systems in a Z are this........ If you fix one problem, you WILL have another arise. I'll have to ponder this one for a while. Dave.

Sounds like slipped timing. I can't think of anything that would knock out all your rings at once. Have you puuled the valve cover to inspect the timing chain and cam, or even the valves to see if the timing slipped. That's all I got, Sorry. Dave.

I had just uploaded the videos so they may not be available at first. But there are some others on there with my exhaust. It does sound a little differnet that what you'll hear on youtube because that was a year ago and the sute has built up and mellowed it out a little. But it still sounds damn nice.

Here's all I can give ya. New 2 1/2" exhaust, turbo muffler from Raptor, MSA 6 into 1 ceramic coated header. Stage 2 cam, (480/280) Dual S.U.'s, MSD 6A, Mallory Unilite Optical distributor. www.youtube.com/DatsunDave07

HEY, Thats a REAL FAMILIAR SCENE!!! Looking good, now hurry up and finish it damnit, we got some driving to do. Dave.

No problem Adam. Besides, how do think I learned about this stuff? My Z had a fare amount of Previous Owner problems and I went at 'em head first. Luckily, I learned alot on the way. I run a Datsun Based business at home. I offer a Combo switch and turn signal service and repair. If you find that your switches need servicing, I only charge $40 to almost completely rebuild them and make them as good as new. But you'd have to send them to me, I do my thing, then send them back. It's about a 1 week thing (from the time you ship them to the time you get them back = 1 week) I also offer headlight and parking light relay upgrade harness's that'll keep you from having those problems again. The info is below. The PLH Plarking light harness is $37 and works on all 240Z's up to 3/73 and the headlight harness (HLH) is $125. It works on ALL 240Z's with the 3-pin square headlight plug. Follow the links and let us know what you come up with on the headlight problem. Best wishes and good luck, Dave.

and to that, I'd like to add this picture, which is the same way Mine is set up, which I also figured out is WRONG...... Problem is that my driveline is significantly out of the tranny and leaks gear oil onto my exhaust pipe. I put the front R-200 diff mount in backwards and this caused the driveline problem. Now I need to turn the Mustache bar around, turn the diff mount around, and we're talking time well spent.

hopefully a little Datsun 101 will help you out. If any of this confuses you, let me know. your right headlights power wire is solid red (+) your left headlights power wire is red/yellow (+) lowbeams are red/black on both sides (-) highbeams are red/white on both sides (-) the engine harness's headlight plugs are white and square and have the tree above wires in it. _________________________________________________________________ The combo switch has a large white/red wire on the top half of the switch that gets full time voltage. The headlights output from the combo switch is the the large red on the same switch. That wire goes to the fuse box and is split into two fuses. One for the Left headlight and one for right headlight. The turn signal has a tall white switch located close to the steering column that controls the HI and LOW beams. It has a center black, ground wire. The red/white is high beam and the red/yellow is the low beam. These are all ground wires or at least the switch only controls the negative side of the headlights. The red/white has a small lead wire that triggers the High beam indicator light in your speedometer that is located behind the dash. The low beam wire goes directly form the T/S's hi/lo switch to the headlights. The high beam circuit has a passing relay on most Automatic 240Z's. Mind you that the wires do change colors every once in a while so you need to follow them closely. but at least knowing what the general purpose and location or direction of each wire will help in diagnosing a problem. _______________________________________________________________ SUPERFUNK. Now that you know that the left headlights main power wire is red/yellow, you can follow it to the fuse box. the Left headlight fuse is the upper right top fuse in a 240Z fusebox. The right headlight fuse is under that one. I personally don't know what wire feed both of the headlight fuses under the fusebox. Some one here has a loose fusebox and can tell you. but that wire will go to the combo switch. HERE'S WHAT I WOULD DO FIRST................. I'd use an ohms meter to check the wires between the actual headlight plug (located in the headlight bucket) to the white plug located in front of the radiator. then move onto physically checking the wires that go into the white plugs by giving them a tug, individually. To make sure there is not a break at the plug. Next, I'd turn on the headlights, test for power at the red/yellow wire. if there is power (+) then test for ground (-) on the red/black and red/ white. Make sure to flip the hi/lo switch for testing each of those wires. If the right headlight works. then the (-) break can be NO FURTHER than 2 feet away. the wires go to the right headlight first, then to the left so that'll shorten your search. If the red/yellow wire is the culprit (+), it only goes from the left headlight, to the fusebox. don't forget to check the plug located on the upper right hand side of the passenger kick panel (Inside) it'll still be red/yellow. Don't forget to check the red/yellow as it comes out of the fuse bux. reason being is the all can look fine up top but be fried under the fuse box. SOMETHING IN THIS SHORT BOOK OF INFO WILL SOLVE THE PROBLEM. And it takes very little effort to track a bad wire in a 240Z. Especially when it's a larger gauge wire like the headlight wires. Hope some or even all of this helps. MAN.... I feel like Enrique when I write like this. Dave.

That was my main reason that I said to just unbolt the driveline. I'd rather take the time to undo 4 nuts than spend alot of time cleaning up gear oil.

The relays are powered from directly off the battery, and yes, the relays are controlled by the headlight output plug for the right headlight. The relay upgrade harness will plug right into your existing system without modifying anythind and will reduce the amperage flow thru your fusebox and headlight switch by over 98% they are $125 for the Harness. The parking light upgrade harness is only $37 and will also stop the parking light fuse from melting your fusebox and destroying your combo switch. wolfin32z@yahoo.com if you need more info. Dave.

nope. But did ya get that Diff out OK? Dave. P.S. I'm buying an engine stand tomorrow so I'll be able to pick up that motor in a little while.

Or I could just say "HEY" and you can follow the Links for the harness's in my signiture. but the ZX plug is best followed thru Arne's link above. HEY! Dave.

My only problem with buying a replica or NOS peice would be that if the metal was not treated before being sprayed with adhesive, it'll rust again. But the full ABS peice is also a good idea Will

Both headlights have a fuse in the fusebox. 240Z headlight fuses are located in the upper right hand side of the fusebox. I am the one that makes the headlight relay upgrade harness. SteveJ was definately right in saying "If you have a known bad headlight, replace it. Also make sure you have dual filament headlights." Never try and diagnose a system that is incomplete. Replace the headlight with a 7" dual filament headlight and better yet, replace both at the same time. If one went out, it's just a matter of time before the other stops working as well. SteveJ was also correct in saying "If it was brighter when you used the switch, the circuit was probably working" Start with replacing BOTH bulbs then go from there. Replace the 2 upper right fuses with 10 amp glass fuses cause they're probably pretty damn old anyways. Let us know what you come up with or what the diagnoses ends up being. Dave.