Zs-ondabrain

Actually, I retrack my previous idea. I did'nt realize they were under $9.00 each. That's not that bad.

For 2 simple turns on a steel sheet, It's too bad some one from here does'nt make a shitload of them and dip them in a plastic solution of some sort and sell them to any one who wants them on this site. I figure that a complete encapsolation of black plastic would stop them from rusting any time soon. The adhesive used by Nissan is what caused the rust problems in the first place. Unfortunately, My WIFE won't let me start on another project until the harness's, ZX plugs, switch services, and tail light upgrades have dwindled down to nothing. Not to mention the engine harness as well as dash and body harness's project that I've barely even started on. Any one up for making these. Sorry, just me throwing ideas out there again. That's one of my major flaws, I think too much for my own damn good.:stupid: Dave.

Or it's your typical 34+ year old 240Z. ROFL Thank god for Dynomat and self tapping screws. (bubble gum and duct tape rule! ) Dave

2 things ........ 1) If it's too loud, you're too old. period. 2) Mids and tweeds will never reproduce a good low end bass note, Therefore, a sub is needed in ANY higher quality system. Especially if you actually enjoy music the way some of us do. Mine is a MTX 12" 6000 series sub-woofer. It booms and it'll rattle your windows but it does'nt mean I always listen to it that loud. Dave.

If you still want it to be seen, Mount it with the sub pointed towards the rear of the car. If you don't care if it's seen except by theives, mount it parrelel to to tail light cover with the sub aimed at the right rear quarter. Leave at least 12" between the sub and what ever you aim it at. If it's too close to a wall, it'll sound like arse. I actually like the Bass tubes that Bazooka's making now-a-days, They used to be just round tubes that did'nt fit in very many places. They look much better now. Let us know what you finally go with, and how it sounds. Is that the one with a built in amp? if not, where did you end up putting the amp? Dave.

Subwoofers sound best when located as far from the driver as possible, especially in a small car. Bazooka tubes as well as almost any subwoofer sounds best when it has had time to "Bounce" off of the walls of the vehicle before you hear it. The reasoning behind this is "Distortion Elimination" The more area that a bass note has to expand before you hear it, the less distortion you'll hear. You drive on the left front of the car. They say "right Rear" to get it as far away from you as possible. Mids and tweeds need to be aimed at you because of the way a frequency reacts to a small space. The higher the pitch, the tighter, more narrow the beam of sound, hense the aiming. Subs have a WIDE band and can be heard even under a load of groceries. Thats why you hear the neighbors BASS before you see his car. Think of an Earthquake. Those are sub-sonic low frequencies. They start miles under the earths crust as a small rubbing of techtonic plates and by the time they reach the surface, the rattle the hell out of the whole city. Because they low end frequencies expand over time and space. Aim the subwoofer towards the rear of the car. You can still see the SAS Bottle but also get the most out of your sub. I've been installing subs and stereos for over 20 years. My sub is in my whell well and you can see it in my gallery. I can load groceries on top of it and it still sounds great. My sub is aimed UP towards the hatch. Where it reflects off the hatch then finally makes its way towards my ears. If you look at Show cars, The subs in a hatchback are always aimed backwards, toward the rear. This increases the distance the bass travels before it reaches the front of the car. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6901&cat=500&ppuser=4921 Nice sub by the way, Dave.

The strap sits over the diff in case the front diff mounts breaks, As far as I know, It keeps the diff from hitting the body in case of mount failure. I had to do it three times in a row so I got my instal and removal practice hours in. Now I may have to do it again when I get my Quaif ATB LSD diff rebuilt. Yah fun. NOT!! Dave.

Or more simply put..... Unbolt the driveline from the diff Put a jack under the diff Remove the 4 bolts holding the front diff mount Remove the 2 big nuts that hold the diff to the mustache bar. Remove the 4 nuts on each side of the diff holding the axles to the diff. Slide the diff forward to get the two bolts to slide out of the mustache bar Then lower the diff and pull it out from under the car.

I too have repaired my Modine 4 core 2times now. I'm thinking that the vibration has something to do with it. I'm almost thinking that some rubber spacers between radiator and the support wall might slow it down a bit as well as move it a little closer to the fan for better cooling. I have the Stock fan shroud but can't use it with my particular modine radiator. I had to reflow the whole top back on as well as fix a hole midway down the radiator because of a stray rock. Let us know what you end up doing, Dave.

You know me too well E. I'm a wild man, I'll do it!! Don't tempt me :devious:

280Z are still on the "NO GO" status. I do still take money orders and all the shipping info is found following the links below in my signiture. I don't wanna get yelled at for taking over the thread. Thanks again, Dave.

1 year and 4 months younger than my 8/70' 240Z. she'll be exactly 37 in just over 4 months I'll be that old in 1 year and 28 days. If you can't do the math, I ain't telling. Dave P.S. K240280, If they were ageless, I'd be out of business and would definately have a LOT more time on my hands. But I get your meaning.

This is a repeat of info that has been stated many times on the particular thread. THE PARKING LIGHT RELAY UPGRADE HARNESS ONLY WORKS ON 240Z'S UP TO 3/73' If your Z was built after 3/73' the only way to use my PLH or ugrade harness, is to HARDWIRE it to the green/white wire that headstowards the firewall after the 9-pin plug that the combo switch uses Because I can't EDIT the first post, here is the "Parking light upgrade harness" instal instructions again. Thanks, Dave. AND THE POST 3/73' CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS ARE BELOW AS WELL. this is what you would look at if your 240Z has the small 9-pin combo switch plug and you want to add the PLH to it. There are 2 different charts for the "FIX" but they say the same thing initially. Parking Light Upgrade Harness instructions 1.doc mid 73 modification diagram.bmp PLH 73' conversion diagram.bmp

Did any one mention tightening the return springs? Mine did the same thing and everytime I tapped the gas peddle, it would drop down again. I just undid the springs from the heatsheild, cut a few turns off it, made a new loop and re-attached it. I haven't had the problem since then. JM2CW Dave

Seaking only from what I know and have experienced. Here's what I have.... 79' 280ZX 5-speed 83 ZX turbo R-200 and CV's from the turbo as well. (it's a 3:90) I don't know where he (JZM) got them but I ended up witha rare pair of companion flanges that slid right onto my stub axles. But I also recall JZM giving me a set of stub axles from another car that allowed the companion flanges to slide right on. Anyways, I also have 225/50R 16's and When I'm doing 60 MPH The tach is only at 2300 RPM's. And I think it's only 400 rpm's for every 10 MPH 2700 RPM at 70 MPH 3100 RPM at 80 MPH 3500 RPM at 90 MPH and so on.... The CV's fit tight on the right? side but there's just enough slack that there is not a problem. The only problem is when I jack up the rear of the car, My rear sway bar rests on the bottom side of the CV boots. So as long as I don't turn the wheels too much when it's in the air, I'm fine. Hope the numbers help. JON, Thanks again for all your help. Every one is their own expert and I as well as other are very greatful that you've shared your expertease with us. I do the best I can for every one here and so do others. I think that's what makes this such a great site. I learn something new every visit. Thanks again Jon and every one who donates their time here, Dave.

Thank you SOO much guys!!! I have an 3:90 R-200 with ZX turbo CV's in the 240Z right now. So what you're saying is that I can pull the Gears out and throw the LSD into the R-200 body that is already in my car? If so, I'm all over it. I'll read up on all the links you guys suggested and go from there. Thanksd again, Dave.

So tell me this. In all your dealings with the LSD, can you tell by looking at the 2 pics below, what diff this is. I was told it's an LSD 3:90 or something like that. It needs a rebuild kit but I'd like to know what it is before I buy a kit for it. any help would be greatly appreciated, Dave.

Hey Andrew, Your switches and harness's are done and will be shipped out in about a half an hour. I put all the parts that I had to replace in a bag for your inspection. You mentioned that your turn signal switch worked great but when I went to clean the Hi/Low beam switch contacts, the PC board crumbled in my hands. Looks like I got it just in time. No problem though, I had a spare one to replace it with. Every thing looks great and it's on it's way back home. Thanks for your order and business, Dave.

Who are you talking about? Mine? or some one else's? I built mine myself and all it cost me was a can of paint. Billet would be great but probably pricey. I'll tell ya what. Measure how much longer you want your grill to be and also tell me if the width changes as you go lower. Mail me your grill and a spare grill for me to take parts from and I'll build you one like mine for $200. Make the measurements, find an extra grill, mail them both with a money order to me, I'll build it and send back the finished product. E-mail me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com for the shipping address and don't forget to tell me what color you want the final product to be. Dave.

I paid $2800 for her in Oct. of 02' Since then, I've put a couple thousand dollars worth of items into it and easily put 10 to 15 grand worth of labor into it. And of coarse, I'm one of the only 2 people that work on it. Johnny (JZM) is the only other person that touches her (Mechanically) and lives. I figure if I were to sell her, (Like that would ever happen while I still breath air) I would'nt let her go for anything less than $15,000. She's now 99% rust free, no dents, fresh paint, new PPG front window with NOS rubber seal (still in the original bag), original--unmolested engine block, E-88 head with rebuilt carbs, MSD 6A, Mallory Unilite distributor and tach adaptor, power windows, power door locks, 4-speaker stereo with 12" hidden sub and amp, new 4 channel amp for the mids and tweeds, Pioneer AM/FM/CD with XM satelite radio. Both of my upgrade harness's and it'll have a ZX alternator before the week is out. Urethane bushings everywhere, KYB struts and Eibach Progressive Rate lowereing springs, Front and rear sway bars (23mm in front and 19mm in rear) 4-piston Toyota Calipers in front, 225/50R16's on 16" X 7.5" Eagle Alloys, Xenon ABS front air dam, H4 Headlights, Kats upper and lower driving/fog lights, LED tail lights-side markers-dash lights-map light and dome light, Full alarm system with 2 sirens in the engine bay, Cowl induction hood (all steel) and inverted hatch lock so I could remove the lock assembly and smooth out the hatch. Which also lets me "POP" the hatch vis my alarm remote or use the dash button that I installed. Maybe I should say $20,000 and not a penny less. Some of you you will say "Ya right Dave, In your dreams" and to that I say "You're dreaming if you think I'd let her go for anything less" But thats just me, NEXT!! Dave.

The only thing I can suggest for the 77' is a one of my parking light harness's without the "T" plugs. Find the combo switches (parking light) output wire (which is ussually Green with a White stripe) on the dash harness side. Find the plug for the combo switch, locate the green/blue wire, on the othe side of the plug (dash harness side) that same wire should now be green/white. Cut that wire 1.5" - 2" away from the plug. Attach the small wire from my harness to the cut wire that heads toward the plug (and switch) Then connect the larger of my harness wires to the cut wire that heads towards the dash (or away from the plug) I'll only charge $30 for the Parking light harness that does NOT have the "T" plugs attached. If you're interested, E-mail me with a reminder of who you are and the year of your Z. ( wolfin32z@yahoo.com ) Dave.

While not knowing your exact needs "make it better", I'd say start with a 6-into-1 header, ceramic coated if you can afford it, stage 2 cam, 2 1/2" exhaust pipe and a turbo muffler or something similar, upgrade your ignition system with a "Pertronics" or "Mallory Unilite" or something like an E12-80 module ignition from a 79' 280ZX. If you have a "Metal fan" toss it and go with the plastic clutch fan assembly. Only use NGK Spark Plugs and wires. I speak from experience. This is obviously just for starters. Every one has their own choice in products and services but I'm sure you'll find everything you need here. Just use the search function or start a thread and ask away. We live for this stuff!! Welcome, and enjoy, Dave.