Zs-ondabrain

I wrote this, Unchanged and in it's original form....... You wrote this to me, Via PM, ........ ]QUOTE=VENUS]I see you are a heavy duty poster. You should not be so quick to judge a new member. Yes, the logo, ads T-shirs, etc. are designed by me for the 2011 national meet. If you bring your Z there is a cool T-shirt available to sport under your brain. Please explain to me how I was "Quick to judge a new member". I merely stated the facts as they were laid out. I added nothing, nor did I take anything out of context. New Members are always welcome and are also like a Box of Chocolates, Cause "Ya Never know whatcha gonna get" Although I'm starting to get a clue. If you read 99.5% of my 3737 posts, you'll find that I'm on this site to learn and teach. They go hand in hand. So please explain to the Class what your contributions are to the Z world. I know what mine are. Sincerely, Dave. P.S. I live on the West Coast, the Pacific Ocean is 5 minutes from my front door. The chances of me making it to the East coast with the car and an Epileptic Wife are pretty unlikely. But Thanks for the invite.

Karen is a "Senior Presentation Specialist" out of Georgia. There are 2 Karens on the "Z Island" link through Facebook, one is set to Private and the other is in Virginia. The Z Island page has the same artwork as Venus's Avatar. Or vice-versa. Nice to meet ya Chris. Welcome. Dave

Gotta be a Chili Cheese Burger from Big Bobs. Or the "Momma Size Chubby Checker burger from Big Bobs. I miss that place. 50's retro style with all the old signs, neon and short skirt waitresses. Good ol days. Dave

$100 at Harbor Freight for a decent Flux welder. Takes some getting used to but I built everything on the 260Z with one. What you need is a Saws-all, a compressor with a good cutting wheel and some tin snips. And a Grinder ($20 at Harbor Freight) That's about all I'm using and mine is moving right along. You can make your own floor pans if you're not worried about precise measurements and looks. Just Cut out the rust, square it off, buy your steel, make some bends and call it a day, and a finished floor. Dave

That's not so low of a Vin to make the car worth much more than any other 70' and the rust implies a Lot of work and money on your part. I wouldn't touch it for more than $800. Just because it's a lot of work. Your info says U.S but we would need specifics. Where you and the car are, can greatly determine Vehicle damage and cost. An east coast car with the rust you explained can easily have a lot more damage than you actually see. Dave

That sounds about right, but the real test is after the car sits all night and the block is nice and cold. Then pull back the choke, turn the key and only touch the gas pedal once and off, Start the car. Should fire up within the first 2 or 3 seconds. Mines almost instant but I got Ztherapy Carbs and a 60K Mallory/MSD ignition set-up. Dave

When the choke is pulled back (when properly adjusted) is should raise the idle a little. It's adding extra fuel which increases RPM's. Pulling it even further will open the butterflies a little which will also increase the RPM's. If you're pulling it all the way back and there is no increase, they are out of adjustment. Dave

It's all in the details. you gotta remember that a lot of us don't have a smog pump. They've been disconnected or tossed years ago, or even recently. Glad you found the issue. I too have a new Water Pump in the box, bought it and the motor kinda died befoer I was able to instal it. But I'll keep it juust in case. Dave

It's a 95% chance that the Turn signal switch is to blame. The front and rear bulbs are not connected in the rear socket. If it were, thebrakes would come on with the parking lights and the turn signals would probably flash everything. Check the switch with an ohms meter. Look at Post # 52 for a diagram that shows what is what. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30640&page=6 The other 5% could be the Hazard switch, as the wires go thru there too. Dave

If you want a power upgrade, I'll sell you my complete set of Triple Weber 40DCOE's with Cannon intake and linkage. They just need to be blown out, cleaned and rebuilt. You can have them for $700. If you know a Weber tech or expert, to rebuild and tune them for you, You can't go wrong. But with any used piece of equipment, it will need fine tuning and patience. but the pay-off is worth it. DCOE's, like SU's, are sidedraft carbs. That's what the L-series motors like. Dave They aren't THIS clean anymore but easily cleanable. Will need 1 or 2 new K&N filters. I say $700 cause I'm a fare man, you will need to buy a few parts and the money you save here, will be spent elsewhere.

Nope, not really. The intake and S.U's were designed for a straight in flow of fuel. Look at the picture above and follow where the fuel and air will flow. You'll see that is hits the bottom of the manifold, swirls around then makes it's way thru the intake and into the engine. Not nearly as efficiant as SU's. Don't get me wrong, Weber DGV's are awesome, but not as good as a set of clean, tuned SU's on an L-series motor. This is of coarse, Just my own opinion, others may vary. Dave

That's cause Jarod is Crazy, with a capitol K. As you'll hear from A LOT of us here, "It all depends on what YOU want" Are yu looking for a new motor with more power and possible a turbo? if so, Go with the RB. I'll be doing the same once my 260Z project is finished. If you want simple, classic lines and power and an over abundance of knowledge from this site, then stick with the L6. I've done nothing but Stock L6's in all 5 of my Z's. My current Daily driver, the 70', has the 260Z rebuilt motor in it as the original numbers matching block gave up the ghost. When the 260Z is done, the 2.6 will go back into the 260Z and the fun will begin with the 70'. Gonna go with the RB25DET and 5 speed tranny. I already have the R200 LSD and CV's. What are your plans if your go RB? Dave

I just happened to stumble upon the answer. I was working on "73240"s 240Z the other day and had to explain the same thing. He is using a 1 gallon can to get the car running. Though he had removed the return line rubber hose and the overflow was going onto the ground. So your question was in line with what I had already dealt with once this week. Step by step, Little here and there, Dave

You didn't go thru 2 gallons in that sort time. When you connect the feed line to a gas can, WHERE is the return line connected to. If it's still connected to the return line that goes back to the tank, THAT's where the fuel went. The Fuel pump pumps more gas than the Carbs need, the return line takes the excess and dumps it back intot he tank. So at idle or low consumption speeds (RPMs) the fuel is merely circulating thru the tubes, feeding the carbs and returning the fuel to the tank. This is also a good way to keep cooler fuel in the lines, when they sit over the exhaust like they do. So if you're gonna test the motor with a small gas tank, run the return line into the same tank, you'll find it lasts a lot longer than the other way. Sounds like you're on a roll though. Dave

My Condolences as well Rich. But think of it this way. From what I've read, you had a good long relationship with your father. I lost mine at age 13, due to Mesothelioma (Cancer caused by the inhalation of Asbestos) He was a welder in the ship yards in the Navy. This was before all the strict OSHA laws took place. I'm told he was a Good man with good intensions, with a drinking problem. But I'll never know. Just thank God you got the time with him that you did. Dave

96' Lamborghini Diablo VT, 3 O'clock in the morning, empty freeway, 180+ MPH. Almost Sh!t a purple twinkie on the seat. You couldn't wipe the smile off my face for an hour afterwards....

That's not too bad. I dropped $750 on my 4 tires. Yes, they are huge and much bigger than yours but I couldn't help myself. 2) Hankook 245/45ZR17's 2) Hankook 275/40ZR17's $750 for all 4, Mounted and ballanced and tax, He gave me $50 off the final price too.

On the starter you should see the battery cable and a small black yellow wire going to the solenoid, the 10 gauge white wire coming from your engine harness should connect to a fusable link or hard-wired to the starter bolt that the battery cable is attached to. 9 times out of 10, the Previous owner has bypassed it or screwed with it somehow. Just look for a 1/4" thick wire coming out of your engine harness and going to your starter, bolted to the same bolt as the battery cable.

I Looped the rear hoses for over a month straight, at over 90 degrees outside and hi RPM driving was involved on many days of that month. Never a problem. They were looped because the heater core failed on the freeway. I'm not trying to be Arguementive by any means, but Every day driving and Dyno testing are almost 2 different things for most people. Dyno testing is the essencial idea of Racing in one spot. So for daily driving, looping it is fine. Just speaking from experience, Dave

That's the thing, I don't have the original paperwork from 8 years ago. no idea what his name is. Can I look up my Z's past owners at the DMV or something?

I only know that much about it cause i have build it from the ground up. If it's not stock, or doesn't look stock, it's cause I put it on or did it myself. Which is just about everything on the car. 8 years with the same car will do that to a guy Dave

Rebuilt 2.6 liter with a .20 bore (standard rebuild with slight bore for clean-up of the sleeves.) Stage 2 cam (477/277)?? I think Valve grind and some porting done ported intake (Cleaned up to smooth it out a little (kinda standard stuff) New Ztherapy S.U. (Installed and tuned by Steve at ZTherapy) MSA Ceramic Coated 6-into-1 header 2.5" exhaust pipe with a Raptor Turbo Muffler Mallory Unilite Distributor Mallory Promaster Coil MSD 6AL with the 7000rpm RL chip Aluminum radiator with Dual 12" fans. 280ZX (79') 5-speed trans R200 LSD Diff 280ZX Turbo CV's Eagle Allow 16x7 aluminum wheels Riken Raptor 225/50ZR16's Eibach PR lowering springs Tokico HP (blue) Struts Energy Suspension (Full) Urethane kit Interpart? T/C kit MSA Xenon Urethane Air dam BRE style Rear spoiler Light weight Reclining Cushioned seats with 4-point harness

at 2300, that puts me at 13.77 in the 1/4 mile. Hell, I'll take that, even better than 13.97 at 2400 or 14.07 at 2450 I so need to do a Dyno and weigh in.

She was one mean lady, hense the guy wanting a divorce. Really wish I had kept his info, I'd love to show him the Z now-a-days. If anything, just to let him know that she's a survivor and being treated with the upmost respect and buckets of love. Even funnier would be for him to take a picture of it with him standing by it, to show his ex, via email or whatever. Think that would set her off? I think it might. How would I go about contacting or finding info on a Previous Owner? Seriously, I'd like to know. Dave

According to the Calculator, my 70' is a over a half second faster than a Turbo L6 in a ZX?? I'm around 170+ HP in a 2450 lb car. am I wrong on my Curb weight? I guess I need to drop some cash on a Dyno test and weigh the car as is. I trust the facts, in black and white. (or a colored graph ) Dave