Zs-ondabrain

The ballast resistor is the white ceramic peice, with 2 terminals, located near the coil on the inner fender. Forward of the left strut tower

makes me wish I was left handed and had a clue about playing guitar.

Actually you're right Mike, The speakers that I will offer with the pods are new 4" X 6" 3-way speakers. they consist of a 4X6 woofer, a 1.5" midrange, and a 1/2" tweeter. I found that they actually come with grills but I still like my "hidden behind the grill cloth" idea better than an external square grill. It would look funny having a square grill on a smooth round pod. I'll try and get a picture of the speaker on here for you to view. Give me more opinions guys.

Audio Sample 1: 1970 Datsun 240Z (open pipe, inline-6 engine) Audio Sample 2: 2001 Aston Martin DB7 (open pipe, V12 engine) Audio Sample 3: 2004 VW R32 (open pipe, V6 engine) Audio Sample 4: 1988 BMW M6 race car (inline-6 engine) Audio Sample 5: 1989 Honda Prelude (open pipe, inline-4 engine) Audio Sample 6: 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S (open pipe, inline-4 engine) Thanks for your opinion on the pods

I did a few more. Just trying to get a feel for what people want and what looks best. Please let me know what style you like best or what style you'd be most interested in.. top left, top middle, top right or lower set (with tweeter)

OK I just drew this up real quick so fogive the crudeness of it.. I put in 4 X 6" speakers with seperate tweeters. I also gave an example of what the mounting bracket would look like. A 4" 2-way or even 5" 2-way (speaker with tweeter mounted inside) could even be used if I make it that way. Let me know what Ya'll think. Dave.

Not sure yet. I know how I'd like to mount them and I know I need to keep with the shape of the vertical wall to the left and right of each side. What I'm looking for from YOU guys is a general concences of what size speaker is prefered. 4" or 4" X 6"?? I think the best outer look would be the thin foam and thin vinyl (Maybe even diamond shape like the OEM style. Not likely to have the welting on it though. I'd have to custom make the speaker grill for the pods because 4" and 4X6" typically DO NOT have grills in the package because those size speakers are for under and behind OEM locations and grills aren't neccesary. We'll see, and thanks for the possible parts. But I think I'll start from scratch on this one. Dave.

I'm thinking 3/16" ABS sheets or maybe start with 1/8" plywood then fiberglass it to reinforce the structure. I'm working on the details tonight. The ABS is formable and sandable to make every thing smooth, then I could put 1/8" foam then Black vinyl over that to make it look as stock as possible. I'll let ya know when I figure it out. Dave. Back to the garage, I'm working on a cardboard template at the moment

let's see if I can get this picture on here..... this is with a 4X6" speaker and there would be a grill over it with speaker cloth. I'm thinking Black vinyl with black grill clothe to make it blend right in to the tower. You would have to premount a mounting plate (to screw into) onto the tower using the stock strut bolts. It definately would'nt go any where. what do you think?

would you guys be interested in a speaker pod that sits atop the strut tower, houses a 3". or 4" or 4"X 6" 2-way speaker????? I've been thinking about the same thing as "RP975" but was'nt real sure on the concept of it or what people would like. So let me know, I'll go make some measurements while the Z is in Limbo (preping for paint) and see what's feazable ( height, length, width, where to run the wire? Ect, Ect.

Keep in mind that you can also drop a small length of chain in there and wiggle or swirl it around using a tilting motion, this will knock loose all of the rust flakes and chips and such that plain old spraying doesn't do. Add some water before doing that so the chunks will float out a little easier when you dump it and spray it again. The Eastwood company also make a tank lining liquid that pours in, your swirl it around to coat everything and you're done for a very long time to come. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=382&itemType=PRODUCT Just a thought, Dave.

The first picture was for Ian, there ya go.

You did'nt think I'd let her sit under all that snow did ya. and the second picture is from the other side of the garage door. Ys I tore into a few weeks agao to prep her for paint. I sure as hell ain't gonna drive in this crap. Watch the weather channel about the N. Seattle area. I live near Arlington and Everett WA.

I spoke with Mark, one of the developers, and he said that he'd bring up the request for 240Z screen shots at their next meeting, This week. Here's the link again for the 240Z write up on Forza Motorsport.net http://forzamotorsport.net/ and here's the link to the story itself. http://forzamotorsport.net/devcorner/dyno/dyno06-1.htm

I'm not real sure when it comes out, I thought it already was out. I'll ask Mike, one of the developers, if he can do that for me (us). I also read that I'm supposed to receive a copy of the game when it's released. That'll be my incentive to buy a 360

and the funny thing is that if you read the article that "I" wrote, I mentioned putting in a 5-speed from a 79 ZX. 2 or 3 of the sound bites were automatics. Kinda helps in the process of elimination HUH? Thanks Madkaw, I'm pretty happy with it.

Mike, I wrote up a new thread because I could'nt change the title. It sucked and did'nt get the responce I was looking for. That's why I started it again but with "Members 240Z on front page of new X-Box game site" for a title. right idea, wrong title of thread.

Actually, "Jernut" is correct. I feel so popular now Thanks guys

There is another thread about this subject but the title of the thread suggests that it's all about "playing the game" Does anyone here play Forza Motorsport 2 Please read the story in the link below on My 240Z featured on X-box's game site. Let me know what ya think. I could use the input. Turn 10 Dyno Spotlight: Dave Irwin's 1970 Nissan/Datsun 240Z ClassicZcars is mentioned on the last page. Thanks again Mike. Dave.

Thank you. and the 510 was sold with over 300,000 miles on it for $500 to a friend who blew it up showing off for his giorl friend. He was going sideways in 3rd gear, up hill when he threw a piston out the side of the block. Then he tried to say it was my fault for selling him a bad car with a worn out motor. Yes, he was and is still, A RETARD. Thanks for the link.

O.K. guys, it's up and ready. Please let me know what you think. http://forzamotorsport.net/ All feed back will be read and taken into consideration. Just remember that all this was done before I redid the engine and engine compartment.

All tell you what he means for $5............. Just kiddin, He's not telling you that the wire that runs from the alternator has a fusable link then goes into the white red wire, (CHECK THE CONNECTOR AT THE ALTERNATORS FUSABLE LINK) From there, it goes straight to the fusebox, then from the fuse box to the ammeter. From there the wire is solid white and goes back to the fusebox, but not before it is "T"'d for a run to the fusable link on the starter and also goes to the voltage regulator as a white wire. here is what I have in GIF form it is a ZIP file so you will need to unzip it to read it. If you can't read it or I sent the wrong one email me at the e-mailbelow (in my signiture) and I'll send it that way. Good luck, Dave. And After you fix the problem, please buy one of my harness's so this does'nt happen again. Your Z problems are the perfect example for having my upgrade harness. Click the link below marked "Headlight Upgrade Harness Link...." You won't be sorry.

Thanks for all the advice Jim, If you ever up north in my neck of the woods, stop in for a cup of coffee or something. I'm off to wesco tomorrow for that Xtreme primer and some buffing pads and what ever else I can afford at the moment... Dave.

I'm not that sure on most of your questions but I DO know this...... Make sure you use the clean up chemical that they suggest!!! Use there por-15 Solvent or the laquer thinner that they tell you about on the can. CLEAN YOUR GUN IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOUR DONE SPRAYIN!!! The reason I stress this is I STILL HAVE POR-15 COMING OUT OF MY GUN 6 USES LATER!! I cleaned the gun 2 times after spraying my suspension parts and still did'nt get all of it. As for the primer question... I think it's a matter of adhesion. They say it sticks best to sandblasted and rough surfaces, the primer most likely gives your work surface that slight edge for the por 15 to stick to. It will peel right off of shiny and slick surface, trust me, I know this one well. I had to RE-rough up the surfaces that were too slick on my suspension then respray them. I knicked the surface after curing and it chipped and peeled off with ease. This product requires the user to be maticulas at every turn of the job. Hope that helps a little, Dave.

Well I just got done wet sanding out the boo boos from yesterday and it turned out OK. I only had to touch up a small area on one of the lips because I stayed there too long and sanded thru the clear coat. I touched it up with my air brush so it only took a teaspoon of paint and reducer. It dried quick then I cleared it with about 4 coats, so I can wet sand again without going thru the clear this time. Now I have to figue out how to buff it properly without hurting all the work I just did. Back to Wesco for the right buffing equipment. I'd still rather learn the hard way then pay some one else my hard earned money. Then if I get good enough, I can do side jobs and make a living out of it. Yah, that's the winning ticket!!!