Zs-ondabrain

there are 2 pivot points on each strut. Upper strut bearing (PN 23-4376) and the lower ball joint (PN 23-4301) PN's are from the yellow 20th anniversary Edition from MSA (copy right 2002)

I have 5 Z hubcaps that need a little TLC. Debating on selling not sure

No matter what it is (bearing or bushing) rubber or metal) REPLACE them BOTH! Your whole strut assembly pivets on that bearing and the bump stop helps to protect it. Replace 'em both. JM2CW Dave

the part number is 23-4376 and called an upper strut bearing, they are $22.46 each (page 83 2 items below the spring seat listing Very common iten that almost always need replacing after 34+ years. do both. Mine was also a "red dusty MESS" and the bump stop had split in half

I mentioned the cam, I did'nt have the MSD at the time of the Dyno and my intake and fuel are stock, except for the aircleaners which I made out of an old K&N cone filter that I found in the middle of the road (after it had been ran over) And I mention you when ever possible John. You know I'm good like that. Besides, in the most non Gay way possible, "I love you, man" :nervous: Oh ya, the carbs need a re-tune before the trip. Dave.

To upload a photo into a thread, just scroll down to "manage Attachments" when writing or responding in the "reply to thread" area. To upload photos into your own personal gallery, click on any of the 6 pictures on the front page, when the page opens to veiw those pics, look to the upper right hand area for the "upload photos" clicky. Then go from there. Hope that helps, at least a little, Dave. P.S. MIKE!!!! there's something wrong here!!! My reply just went to the top of this forum whats up with this or is it just my computer??????

Looks like I'm a little late on this one. I too was going to suggest shaving a little from the intake manifolds underbelly. The casting are ussually pretty thick and remember that you can shave it and then use a ball-pean hammer to dent the underside of the intake (for that little extra notch, without removing more material. Sounds weird but I personally would not smack my new coated headers, even if I got them for free. They're just too damn pretty!!

No matter what car it is, the brake lights and reverse lights are almost ALWAYS a seperate fuse form the tail lights. Check the fuse and the fuse holder (clips) If the front parking lights work and the rears don't, then a bad connection is most likely the culprite. Start with the connections at the rear (usually a bad ground) Then move to the upper right hand (passenger side) kick panel. All your tail light connections go from there to the back. On early Z's, the wires are red/black (for reverse) Green (for brakes) green/white (for parking lights) and black (for ground) OH YA!! and I totally forgot about your combo-switch (headlights, parking lights and washer motor) check for output from the switch and input from the fuse box. Those wires are as follows (on early Z's)........ on the 6-pin plug that goes to the headlights, the input wire from the fusebox is green/blue (into the 6-pin plug) then greenwhite into the switch. the output wire (to the parking lights) is (from the switch) green/blue then turns into a green/white on the other side of the 6-pin plug Hope some of this helps, Dave.

Start with the E12-80 dist. from a 79 280ZX (best 50 bucks I ever spent) Next should be the header and 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" exhaust pipe. Then the muffler can be a turbo from "RAPTOR" or "Cherry Bomb" or something similar. You'll love the sound and the paybacks. THEN do the Cam. Stage two is awsome for a simple upgrade with a good lopy sound and good HP from 3K to 6K RPM range. Stock carbs or Z-therapy rebuilts will work beautifully with the new cam and exhaust system. If after 150,000 hard miles and 36 long years, my Z cam make that kinda HP with only a few add on parts, you can't go wrong with the little mods.

I still have the original stock flasher in the Z. I also have L.E.D. sidemarkers as well as the LED tail lights. Every thing still works like normal. I truthfully thought the same as you (VaGuS510) when it came to the flasher and was more than ready to swap the flash unit, but so far it has not been neccesary. Most likely because of the front bulbs still being there. I'm guessing that the bulbs give just the right amount of resistance to keep the stock flasher working correctly. Mike, P.M. sent, but you probably already knew that.

I can't remember the math on that, how do you find the HP at the flywheel? I did my dyno run on the first week of March. I pulled 135.1 HP @ 6250 rpms at the rear wheels and 127 Ft. lbs torque @ 5000 rpms I have 150,000+ miles on her and shes a 8/70 with the original L24 and an E-88 head from a 73' Z I have a stage 2 cam (aprox. .480 / .280) and a 6-into-1 header w/ 2 1/2" pipe thru a turbo muffler. and thats about it. No real major engine mods other than those mentioned. Some one said that is calculates to about 165? HP @ the flywheel Not bad for 36 years old and 150K+ miles on her Dave.

I'm in Marysville and JZM is in Everett. (ever wet)

Just the opposite Mike, I trust that you'll send a decent pair. If I was a customer of mine, I'd be picky as all hell. Thats how I run this home based business, by only making and selling things that even I would consider buying. The chrome is NOT perfect but it did shine up pretty good. Besides, you'll be so blind from looking at the new lights that you won't be able to notice any imperfections in the chrome. Mike, are you going to the MSA event? If you are, I can sell them to you then. After you get a good look at them. If that works better for ya, let me know. If you think that your best chrome trim is better than whats on the LED lights, I can instal your trim onto the new lights, if that works for ya. I'm all about Customer satisfaction and making the customer happy with his/her purchase. Send me your best set of lights with trim and the money order , I'll determine the best of each assembly and send you the final product. I need some extra cash due to gas prices, so I'll do what ever it takes to make it worth your while. If I don't take a vacation real soon, I'm apt to lose my mind. Let me know, Dave.

I AM a Mechanic, not nearly as qualified or certified as JZM but still, a mechanic. The shift hole was already cut for the previous tranni (72' 4-speed) after my original dropped a couple bearings out of the drain hole. In a rounded shape, cut only 5/8" forward of the present hole. Your rubber boot should still catch most of the lip and be usable. I am a mechanic, electrician, I do electronics and am a 12 volt specialist with 18 years under my belt. I also do construction and can practically build a house from the ground up if need be. I do minor bodywork, upholstery, electrical, mechanical, suspension and brakes, including rebuilding almost every part that has ever been pulled on my car. Including the new gear reduction starter that I just rebuilt and put in my Z at the same time as the 5-speed install.

The lenses were torn apart, WET-SANDED with 1000 grit, polished w/ plastic polish. The chrome trim was the best of all that I had to choose from. They have minimal deteriation like you commonly see on the left side tail light. The chrome was buffed out, the inner part was repainted the stock black, and the tabs were drilled out and tapped for screws instead of rusty holding clips. I would Proudly put these on my own Z in a heartbeat, if I did'nt already have a set. After being told by more than 10 members that they wanted a set, and whatever price I chose would still be a great deal, I made a set. Just for one of those 10 people. Now everybody is being sceptical about it. What's not to like, They're brighter, more power efficiant, the reverse light is even brighter and the lenses have been polished to a like new appearance. I'll just take them to the MSA event, and there they will sell in a flash. I just figured that someone here would want first crack at 'em. Dave.

I JUST (last night) installed a 79' 280ZX 5-speed tranni into my 70'Z. I used my original clutch, pressure plate, T.O. bearing collar and resurfaced flywheel. I also used the original fork (with hole for adjustable push rod) and a new T.O.Bearing. I have an R-200 Diff w/ ZX C.V.axles so I used my original drive line. Every thing bolts right up and works great. No adaptors or special parts. The tranni was $250. The Diff is a posi locker out of a 300ZX. The cross member was from my 70, The diff mount is from an 82' ZX. LOVIN IT! especially with gas prices being what they are right now. Dave.

Any takers? I built them for you guys, whats up? If they don't sell before MSA, I'll bring them with me to the event, I know someone there will snag 'em up.

That's what I'm here for, Making things brighter. (Headlights, parking lights and spark):classic: Dave.

My best guess is the connectors on the passenger side inside kick panel. Your right, it does sound like a bad ground but I would start there (pass. side) JM2C Dave.

I just got off the phone with another local yard, they have an 80' with the 5-speed for ME to pull tomorow. $250 bucks and I get to play in the damn mud this time. Yeah for me:tapemouth Hope this one works out better than the last one. Trust in your free parts Arne, It's the ones that you pay for that usually give you trouble. Momma always said " Never look a gift horse in the mouth" Dave.

For those of you who are still interested in a harness but can't afford it till late april....Good news! I will be bringing some to the MSA event on the 28th, 29th, and 30th of April in Orange, CA. They will be sold at a slight discount, especially to those who are not normally members of this site. It will help spread the word about the harness's and about ClassicZcars.com and all the great products, people and help that they'll find here on this site. I just posted a Pic. of me and Leah (the wife) in the gallery to help people find us while we're at the event. So if you want one before then, let me know, or wait till the event, where I'll have about 10 of each product available to the open public.

For those of you who are still interested in a harness but can't afford it till late april....Good news! I will be bringing some to the MSA event on the 28th, 29th, and 30th of April in Orange, CA. They will be sold at a slight discount, especially to those who are not normally members of this site. It will help spread the word about the harness's and about ClassicZcars.com and all the great products, people and help that they'll find here on this site. I just posted a Pic. of me and Leah (the wife) in the gallery to help people find us while we're at the event. So if you want one before then, let me know, or wait till the event, where I'll have about 10 of each product available to the open public.

It was all because the clutch was free and not double checked. As for the tranni being bad, thats what you get for $77 now-a-days. I got 2 weeks (as of today) to get it right. cross your fingers for me. Dave.