Zs-ondabrain

I'd love to get my hands on a newer Roush Mustang. the 427R. or the Stage 3 set-up. But honestly though, Your ZX won't stand a chance against the Supercharged Mustangs. Sorry. Though you might have fun going against their V6's. Our Power to weight is a little better and it's funny as hell when you pull away from them and the look on their face as you do it. I too am cocky, until I'm proved wrong. it happens. Not often, but it happens. Dave

Oh come on Ken... Come on over. I'll let ya take her for a spin, or 2. My cushy seats and Satellite radio might change your mind . But seriously though, All amenities aside (shut off or out of reach), my Z is very in touch with the road, the curves and spirited driving is 50% of the fun. The other 50% is driving slow thru town, letting everyone get a closer look at her and answering questions when they catch up to me. My 240Z has LITERALLY Changed my life. It has made me new friends everywhere I go, it has taught me things I wouldn't have even bothered with or cared about before. It has helped me start a business that helps other 240Z owners and the profits are used to cover the cost of her upgrades and the 260Z project. You're right though, the features don't to the pleasure of the Z, but they sure don't take away from it either. Have a great week Ken. Dave

Well said Christine. I doubt the car would actually sit for that long anyways. If it's not snowing or icy outside, DRIVE it. Anyone with a Z in their garage will tell ya "This damn thing Yells thru the walls at me" and it typically says "Get out here and Drive me damnit" If it's raining, Drive it, if it's Sunny, Drive it more, wash it off and put it away. My Z is my Daily driver. I have a Plymouth Grand Voyager but why the hell would I drive that with a 240Z in the garage. It was absolutely POURING down rain, a week or 2 ago. It's a car, damn right I drove it in the rain. Yes, I have the Honda wiper motor upgrade and my wipers are awesome, but still, that's what weatherstripping is for, right? Do whatcha want Christine. Have fun doing it. Hell, go out and get a set of studded tires for it for the winter time. A well tuned Z LOVES cold air. Well at least mine does. Watch this in your spare time, it's my 70'.... Dave

I have a ceramic coated 6-into-1 squareport header, 2.5" single piece exhaust pipe, back thru a Schucks $20 Turbo muffler (Raptor Muffler) That one is way cleaner and higher revving than mine, but here's a few samples of mine...... I wish I had a better Sound bite for ya. here's a doughnut in the same car, about 4500 rpm??? 6500 RPM's with NO Muffler My 260Z with 6-into-1 header and 2" pipe thru a repro Ansa muffler (tip) and Bluestreak resinator in the middle (2 feet after the header) Dave

BOTH... The distribution block doesn't really allow for soldering but the allen screw clamps the hell out of it. Anything that has a crimpable ring terminal gets crimped AND soldered. Then covered in a Silicone sleeve or Heavy Duty heat shrink.. Sometimes 2 layers. I haven't had electrical issues for years. It's so overdone that you swear you can hear the car begging for me to add something else to it, just to see what it can handle. haha Dave

Creature Comforts are what you decide to put into the car. I own a 70' 240Z with reclining cushioned race seats (very comfortable) Power windows and locks, arm rest in the center, 800 watt stereo system with 2) 10" subs, 4) 5-1/4" 2-way mids, 2) 6-1/2" 2-way mids, and 2) 4" mids. lots of speakers but more for Clarity and clean music, no matter what the volume. I drive the 2400 mile round trip from Marysville, WA. to Anaheim, CA for the MSA Zcar Convention and I can't imagine doing it in any other car. Tokico Blue struts, Eibach springs and 225/50ZR16's all around. Very nice ride, aggressive when needed but great on the freeway. Build the car the way you want it. Race prep, touring, grocery getter/week-end rally car. What ever you want, it's yours. And what ever you do, Have fun with it. Welcome to the club, good luck on the search for your future Z. Dave

Ha, Never too late around here. I'm in constant conversation with things like. Fairlady vs. 240Z. Fuel injection vs. Stock S.U.'s YES!! This is the stock motor. No it's not a "straight 8" just an inline 6. When they came out, when they stopped making the S30, the difference between 280Z vs 280ZX, difference in the models, etc, etc. It's ok though. I LOVE talking about my Z!! By the way. My car was saved from a Psycotic Ex-wife...... The told me "Look, I'll drop the price if you get it away from my house and my wife TODAY" Aparently, if she got the car in the divorce, she was gonna take it to the range and use it for target practice. She already hit EVERY panel with a Philips head screw driver. 3 times in the roof, from the inside of the car 2 on the hatch 1 on the hood 2 in each fender 1 in each door and ran the screwdriver up the seam of the hatch and body. Oh ya, she was a keeper. NOT. Dave

See? Now that's too funny... Went to the Grocery store today, come out with a few bags, pop the hatch and oad the groceries, shut the hatch like normal and here a loud "SNAP" sound... WTH was that? so I pop the hatch and the bracket is just floating between the body and the plastic panel. So now I gotta reweld the damn thing back on. But not before I have to tear it apart to do it. So I guess you could say "I feel for ya" Dave

Do what ever yo want, it's your car. Whether it's an exact stock looking reproduction or a full on Custom job. Just make sure that you use no less than the Stock 6 gauge wire, and you can go as thick as 1/0 Gauge if you want. It's all about power transfer. If you want standard, then go with the 6 ga. if you want some hard core, no doubt about it transfer, go with the 2 or 1/0 gauge. Power travels on the outside of a copper strand. Car audio shops and profesionals use HI Strand Count power cables. The more strands, the more efficiant the power transfer. I personally like the 2 gauge Hi Strand power cable. Similar to Powderkeg's set-up. In my 70' 240Z, I have an 800 watt stereo, 55 watt lower driving/fog lights, 35 watt 6000K BiXenon HID's, Mallory Unilite Dist. MSD 6AL wit Promaster Coil, Dual fan set-up on the radiator, Honda wiper motor upgrade, Honda Blower motor upgrade and all the other lighting is LED. So with all that in mind, I have a 4 gang fused Distribution block on the firewall, gold plated allen screw battery clamps, 2 ga power and ground wire, 8 gauge ground from battery to firewall and from the ground bolt on the tranny to the ground terminal on the engine harness. There's a lot more but the pics tell the rest...... Dave Ignore the oil and dirt around the engine bay. Aparently, my fuel pump ended up witha bad seal on the lower hald and shot oil on everything on the right side of the bay...... Yes, I will clean it up, I promise.

Those are some classic switches. they don't look too bad either. If you feel you really need to cut then connectors off the white power wires, cut them as close to the connector as possible. otherwise it'll be shorter and likely more difficult to make the connections when reinstalling the fusebox. I'm in the process of looking for that type of 9.5mm? connector and the silicone boots that come with them. I hope to find them soon, so you have a viable replacement. Dave

Just remember that a strut SLOWS the action of the spring (so you don't bounce down the road) The Springs determine how much load each corner will take. stiffer springs in front will handle the weight of the motor in front. The longer struts in rear will slow the "Squat" of the rear when you launch the car. Wrench in one hand and beer in the other = do it again. Beautiful car by the way. Dave

OK, lots to read and my gears are smoking. Sounds like Steve is on the right path. I would personally start with repairing those connections at the fusebox. putting the ACCesory relay back where ya found it (screw it back to the kick panel on the passenger side.) So it sounds like there is just enough voltage transfer to power either the headlights, or the ignition. bad connections, corrosion, burnt copper, etc could be the issue at hand. Some Fusible links can actually look good and be bad on the inside of the sheath. Give it a tug and make sure all is good. Also use a test light to see if both ends are conducting electricity. Voltmeter, put the dial to DC on the 20 volt mark. This will test voltage safely up to 20 volts DC. Connect the black wire to a good known ground. Thest use the red wire to test to your little hearts content. Start with the battery. Test the battery and write down the voltage. (12.5 volts? maybe Start the car and test the battery again, write down the results. 13.5 idle to 14.5 at 1500 to 2000 RPMs. basically, you should see 1.5 to 2 volt increase with the engine running. if so, alternator may actually be good. What are the chance that the wires on the Ammeter in the dash are loose or bad?? Check EVERY connection dealing with the White and White/red power wires. Alternator, battery, starter and fusible link, under the passenger side of the dash, at the fusebox and the ignition switch. every one of those area's has a possiblility of being your trouble spot. GROUNDS, GROUNDS GROUNDS....... I can't stress this enough when helping people troubleshoot electrical issues in their cars, Every car, make and model. Pull the battery terminals, clean the posts and the clamps, follow the ground wires to the firewall and Clean it. reground it (grind metal if you have to) Below the battery, above the frame, is a groundwire, bolted to the body. Pull it, clean it, clean the connector and metal, re bolt it down. Then spray a little matching paint over it to keep the connection and metal clean of moisture and air. These things should keep ya busy and might even resolve the issue. So do those and get back with us... Dave What are

Well, what ever you decide to do, Don't wait too long. These cars arent dropping in value, and won't any time soon. And that is one of the good things, they haven't really depreciated in years. So the longer you wait, the harder it'll be to find one at a good price. Good luck in your search. Save your money and get the right one for a little more. And ALWAYS plan on putting money into what appears to be a "Complete car" it's just a fact of life when it comes to Z's. Dave

This belongs to a Buddy of mine, just up the road from me. His name is Brian Laine and he's the one who also has the R/T mounts for sale..... Great guy and AWESOME Z8. Here's a link to the car........ The motor is a "Weberized 331 stroker-motor" and it is a thing of Beauty.... http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm He also Makes the full Ford SB conversion kit that includes the frame supports and mounts, diff mount and a few other things in the kit...... http://www.technoversions.com/

OK. The one I saw was 1300 dollars and came with a lot of stuff. All the caps, refils, fuel tank cap, lights, glasses, etc..... The good thing about having electric fans on my Z is I can do the testing without the fan(s) blowing the smoke away from the problem.... So maybe the smoke candles would be a Sh_tload cheaper. Dave

It runs about $1300!!! Great buy if you own a shop. but for personal use, I'd have to rent it out to friends, just to make my money back. Great idea though.

You can just highlight and copy by placing your curser at the beginning or end of an address, then press your left mouse button and hold it down as you move the pointer over the whole address. this will highlight it. then release the button, put the pointer over the highlighted address, RIGHT click your mouse, then choose "COPY". this puts the copy into an internal Clipboard. Then go to your post (what ever you wanna say, as you did above this post). With your pointer on the area that you want to post the link, RIGHT click again, choose "PASTE" and the address should show up there. Also, on this site, while writing a post, look above the writing box, you should see what looks like a Globe with a paperclip on it putting your pointer over it, it should read "Insert Link" click on that and a box will appear. it'll say "Please enter the URL of your link. The URL is the address you copied earlier. So right click, choose paste and MAKE SURE it only reads "HTTP://" once. or erase the highlighted "HTTP://" then paste your address. Then After doing that, and hitting "OK" it will show up in the paragraphs. it will show a Highted in Blue copy of the address, That is where you write in the title, like "Classiczcars" just like this...... classiczcars It may take a little practice but you'll get it.

I just noticed something. My springs are 6303 001's and yours are 6305's I have an early, or mid 260Z 4/74' and they should be the same?? Though as pictured above, my front springs are also short. I wonder if there is a company that stretches springs. Same spring rate but taller??? maybe? Dave

No difference? At idle or while driving? Unplug the "T" and plug the combo in to stock, measure voltage at the rear left sidemarker. Then reconnect the PLH into teh combo and measure the voltage again. Measure at idle and over 1500 RPM. Post your results. Remove the lens and paint the inner shell of the gauges. Dave

ya, the other four or only used periodically, as compared to the 7 gauge lights. If you buy brighter lights, beware. some are too big and hit the green lens on the inside of the gauge, and won't allow you to instal the socket into the gauge cause it hits the lens. If you wanna go all out, remove the gauges, disassemble them, remove the green lenses, clean and paint a very reflective paint on the inside, and on the upper lip (so as to reflect the light onto the gauge face) then reassemble and instal. And instal one of my Parking light upgrade harnesses to get the most out of the lights. Dave

2 each in the larger gauges. so 7 illuminators and 4 others (2 turns, 1 hi beam indicator and 1 brake light

Something sounds wrong. You should have Some play in there. I have a 4/74 260Z and a 70' 240Z. You'll see the comparison below. The fronts were a sloppy fit until weight is put on them. Probably about 1 inch of slack between the upper perch and the top of the spring. The rears almost fit perfectly, though I did have to put about 125 of weight on them to get the nut started on the strut, thru the upper cup Now I can't honestly tell you how the car will sit until EVERY thing is back on and in the car. Though I was told by Garrett at MSA that I might wanna cut the rear bump stop in half to avoid premature bumping. If my project car was back together, I could help more. Dave

I'll hold it for ya Brother. Just say the word.

$15 is a great price but the T-shirts are gonna cost ya. Maybe a Coffee cup with the fee. $20 sounds like a very reasonable price. $30 might include a T-shirt and a goodie bag $40 would be pushing it. Sound about right? Greg will likely be reading this, so simple suggestions are easier to read thru. Not sure if he'd wanna read the whole thread.

I hope you mean "Something similar to those" cause those are 5-3/4" You need 7" And let this be a warning to those who are thinking about Diamond Cut lenses. THEY SUCK.!! A focused clean lens or Euro lens is best.