Zs-ondabrain

Enrique, No offence given and none taken but DUH! I'm not talking fricken HOT, I'm talking at least room temperature or above. I obviously did'nt look to see where "Schevets" lives or take in to account that he may actually have a "real shop", as compared to mine. But I was thinking about the fact that it is winter around here. My garage when the heater isn't on gets to be about 40 degrees or less. And even NEW undercoating will get brittle as the temperature drops. If any one on this site would have an understanding of how finicky I am or my complex understanding of how things work, especially on a Z, I thought it be you. As for the POR-15, I still don't quite understand why a lot of you are putting it on, then undercoating. Undercoating, when applied to a clean, bare metal surface will protect the car from rusting. Thats why the factories do it that way. And they don't use POR first. call me silly but it seems to worked for them for the last umpteen decades. Obviously you guys have a way of doing things that I've yet to understand. I DO use POR-15 on metal that needs to be protected but will not have undercoating applied such as my control arms and strut assemblies, as you've most likely seen from the pictures I posted the other day. I think that POR-15 is a great product! Hell, I use it myself. But when you're on a budget as I usually am, You don't think about covering a great product like POR-15 with a cheaper product like undercoating. Like I said earlier, "no offence taken, none given". We were both obviously looking at different sides of the coin.

It's been my experience that if you undercoat or use a truck bed coating over paint, the paint can still chip off and take the undercoating with it. Strangely enough, thats actually how I removed all the old undercoating on the underside of my Z. The P.O. or some one else had sprayed undercoating ontop of the existing paint. When I tapped it with a sharp hammer, bits and chunks came flying off at me. It was cold in my garage when I did it so keep that in mind if you decide to remove undercoating. If you want to remove dents with out removing undercoating, make sure that the surface of the panel is warm or even hot before you bang on it. I have NO rust in or on my floorboards and plan to keep it that way. Good luck, Dave

I'm still deciding on whether to undercoat the rest of the floor pans until I get rid of a few inward dents. ( I think the P.O. used the car for stump jumping or something) the passenger side has one big lump on the inside floorboard, I think he might have tried to jack the car up from the end of the frame rail (just forward of the seat)

I used the spray-on from a can. (Dupli-Color Professional Undercoat & Sound Eliminator) P/N UC102 It's Paintable, Rubberized, Corrosion Proof and Drys quickly. It costs about $6.00 per can and I'm pretty happy with it, for being on a budget. I used wads of paper to fill all the screw and bolt holes, and strips of tape (to lessen the thickness between the body and the parts to be remounted) where the larger items were to be bolted back up to the body. Here are a few pics with the parts put back on after undercoating.

Either way, its for sale if any one wants it. Just point them my way

MSA lists the switch for the 70-71 as both unlit and lighted P/N 45-4001 70-71 unlit P/N 45-4006 70-71 lighted the unlit is marked as [A] (limited availability) the lighted is $28.61 This is the one that I have on my shelf (nissan) P/N 25350-E8701 If some one is interested I'll sell it for $15.00 It's new in the box (only removed for photo)