Everything posted by Zs-ondabrain
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All visible lines were scotch-brited and clearcoated
All brass was polished, lines were cleaned, and every thing was clearcoated to keep it looking that way.
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E-brake hardware
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What did you cover when undercoating?
I used the spray-on from a can. (Dupli-Color Professional Undercoat & Sound Eliminator) P/N UC102 It's Paintable, Rubberized, Corrosion Proof and Drys quickly. It costs about $6.00 per can and I'm pretty happy with it, for being on a budget. I used wads of paper to fill all the screw and bolt holes, and strips of tape (to lessen the thickness between the body and the parts to be remounted) where the larger items were to be bolted back up to the body. Here are a few pics with the parts put back on after undercoating.
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1970 240Z Console Defroster Switch
Either way, its for sale if any one wants it. Just point them my way
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1970 240Z Console Defroster Switch
MSA lists the switch for the 70-71 as both unlit and lighted P/N 45-4001 70-71 unlit P/N 45-4006 70-71 lighted the unlit is marked as [A] (limited availability) the lighted is $28.61 This is the one that I have on my shelf (nissan) P/N 25350-E8701 If some one is interested I'll sell it for $15.00 It's new in the box (only removed for photo)
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another shot of the backing plate
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another shot of the backing plate
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brake and fuel line brackets "opaque "flame yellow"
the old brake lines were cleaned and rubbed down with a scotch-brite pad and they look like new. but the old brackets now looked like arse. So I blasted them and painted them yellow to stand out against all the new undercoating
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fuel tank after being stripped and recoated
I used a heatgun and a putty knife and the old undercaoting came right off. I then used aircraft paint stripper for the remaining undercoating. Damn easy to do. Self etching primer and paintable undercoating and it's all done and ready to go back in.
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New 19MM rear sway bar with new bushings and hard ware
the paint is from a new company called "Auto Air Colors" And all info can be found at www.autoaircolors.com the paints are water based and clean-up is as easy as washing your hands in warm soapy water! They colors are incredible for being water based. they have over 200 colors available and they are very inexpensive. I love 'em. The yellow is an opaque "flame yellow" and the blue is an irredescent "Electric blue"
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rear right strut assembly and control arm
everything you see was media blasted then painted or Por-15'd or zinc coated with my new Eastwood zinc plating kit. all new urathane bushings and new nuts and bolts. New stub axle bearings, wheel studs and brake hardware and shoes.
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rear left strut assembly and control arm
everything you see was media blasted then painted or Por-15'd or zinc coated with my new Eastwood zinc plating kit. all new urathane bushings and new nuts and bolts. New stub axle bearings, wheel studs and brake hardware and shoes.
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I NO LONGER MAKE THE "HEADLIGHT RELAY UPGRADE HARNESS"
Thank you very much for the compliments and good reviews, You've all made a hard week seem a little nicer!! I'm still working on the instructions and I'll even have instructional pictures with almost every step (that's what is taking so damn long :disappoin ) Funny thing is, that I NEVER MADE ONE FOR MYSELF . Except for the prototype that is in my Z, (which is'nt nearly as nice as the ones I built for you guys) So I'm making one more (for myself) and taking pictures, Making measurements and writing down suppliers and hints as I go. Give me a little more time, I'm working two jobs and trying to write this out for ya'll. Dave
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I NO LONGER MAKE THE "HEADLIGHT RELAY UPGRADE HARNESS"
Hey guys and gals, It's Dave in Marysville WA. I'm sorry to inform all those who wish to purchace one of my "Headlight Relay Upgrade Harness's" in the future that I am no longer making them. They are too stressfull to make when running a household of 7, having suppliers raise their prices, and working 50+ hours a week. So please stop sending me money orders without emailing me first. I've already had to return three orders that people sent me without checking first. I will write a forum on the process of making the harness for your self. If anyone is interested in following in my footsteps and making the harness for all those who want one, please contact me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com Sorry again, Dave.
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Triple S.U setup
the carbs were 3 of 12 that I had on the shelf and the manifold was was custom made from two sets of S.U. intakes that were also sitting around. I made the custom linkage and ground down the ballance tube to eliminate all the emision stands and un-essensial parts.
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Strut assembly ?
Did you get NEW gland nuts (Strut housing cap) when you ordered the new struts? Reason I ask is, when I got mine it had a fat angled washer on the inside of the cap. I found that it was removable but kept mine in. My bolt also did not go down all the way but more than enough teeth made their way into the housing. I have a 70' 240Z so we may be talking apples and oranges.
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another angle of the completely rebuilt front end
all new ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, springs, por-15 (silver) toyota 4X4 4 piston calipers and pads, T/C kit with urethane bushings, rebuilt control arm and urethane bushings
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another angle of the completely rebuilt front end
all new ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, springs, por-15 (silver) toyota 4X4 4 piston calipers and pads, T/C kit with urethane bushings, rebuilt control arm and urethane bushings
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full view of rebuilt strut assembly
EVERY THING was torn off, rebuilt or replaced. Sand blasted and painted or por-15'd. all new energy suspension urethane bushings were installed everywhere possible.
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full view of rebuilt strut assembly
EVERY THING was torn off, rebuilt or replaced. Sand blasted and painted or por-15'd. all new energy suspension urethane bushings were installed everywhere possible.
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BIG brakes and pads
Toyota 4X4 4 piston calipers and pads were installed after being painted with 1500 degree brake and rotor paint. A new T/C kit with urethane bushings was installed
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BIG brakes and pads
Toyota 4X4 4 piston calipers and pads were installed after being painted with 1500 degree brake and rotor paint. A new T/C kit with urethane bushings was installed
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new undercoating, Eibach springs
most of the old undercoating was removed and replaced with new rubber based, paintable undercoating. New Eibach progressive rate lowering springs and KYB struts were installed
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new undercoating, Eibach springs
most of the old undercoating was removed and replaced with new rubber based, paintable undercoating. New Eibach progressive rate lowering springs and KYB struts were installed
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left control arm and wheel hub
all parts were cleaned, sand blasted and either POR-15'd or painted. New energy suspension pivit bushings were installed after pressing the old rubber bushing out.